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How to Fix Orange Hair

Updated on March 01, 2016

Joined: 2 years agoFollowers: 210Articles: 48
Dark orange hair
Dark orange hair | Source

Have you tried to lighten your hair only to end up with a disastrous shade of orange instead? Orange is certainly not the most appealing color, and unless your stylistic muse is an orangutan, it stands to reason that you want to know how to fix orange hair and regain your confidence to leave the house. Luckily, it's easy to fix orange hair and you can achieve the color you really want.

Why does hair turn orange?

Your hair isn't one solid color. In fact, there are many colors that combine to form the color you actually see when you look in the mirror. If your hair is dark, there is an abundance of red pigment that is hidden underneath, giving depth to your brown or black hair. When you lighten it with dye or bleach, you reveal this base tone.

Hair turns orange for one key reason: because it wasn't lightened enough to reach blonde. In order to dye hair blonde, you need to reach the yellow stage, where the majority of red pigment has already been bleached out. This yellow result is toned with a violet based color to neutralize the yellow tone and dye your hair a natural shade of blonde.

If you haven't reached the yellow stage, you can't dye hair blonde because it simply isn't light enough in most cases. You can tone out the base tones, but your hair won't tone to blonde. Orange hair can be toned to light brown however.

People who are intimidated by the use of bleach or have fairly dark hair and remove the bleach too soon end up with orange hair. When they try to tone it with a blonde dye, the dye won't cover it. You're left with three choices to fix orange hair:

  • Tone the orange out
  • Return to a darker color
  • Lighten it more

Caramel brown hair
Caramel brown hair | Source

Toning hair

Unwanted tone
Neutralizing tone
Yellow
Violet
Orange
Blue
Red
Green

Toning orange hair

You can tone orange hair, just like you can tone blonde hair. The only real difference is that orange needs to be toned with a blue based dye instead of purple, and the toner needs to be stronger than a blonde toner in order to cover the darker orange hair. Should you wish to tone your hair to correct the orange, you'll end up with a light brown color as a result. It's not blonde, but it can be the next best thing to returning to a darker color after having already exposed your hair to bleach damage.

You will need a light ash brown dye to tone out the orange color. To prepare the dye, mix the chosen color with 10 vol developer with a tinting brush and bowl. For ease of application, your hair should be sectioned into four quadrants, created by parting the hair down the middle from forehead to neck, then again from ear to ear, clipping each section away. This way you can work quickly and ensure even color coverage as you apply the hair dye systematically to each quadrant.

Once the dye is in, leave it until the orange is effectively neutralized and your hair reaches a natural shade. You can leave the dye to process for the full development time if you want an ashier color, but it's perfectly fine to wash it out at any point during development after you reach a shade of brown you like.

Condition your hair thoroughly to correct any dryness your bleaching escapade has caused and you'll be ready to style your hair and head out into broad daylight once more.

Dark strawberry blonde hair
Dark strawberry blonde hair | Source
Bleached orange hair
Bleached orange hair | Source

Dyeing orange hair blonde

You've come this far, and you're only a level or two away from reaching the blonde you desired. If your hair is orange, it either didn't lighten enough or you removed the bleach before it reached yellow. You can resume this lightening process by applying more bleach. This should be performed at least a week after you first bleached your hair in order to allow the hair's natural moisture balance to be restored.

If your hair has been properly rested and you've survived the waiting period, you can dye it blonde now. Mix and apply more bleach, and this time let it remain in your hair until it reaches the yellow stage. From your current color, this will take about 20 - 30 minutes and you can rinse out the bleach as soon as it happens.

Now that you're showcasing a dazzling lemon yellow, you will need to tone this color out with a blonde dye. In most cases, this will be either an ash, pearl, or natural shade. If you want a beige blonde hair color, you will still need to use a cool-toned dye to counteract some of that yellow tone first in order to reach it. Even beige and golden blondes need cool tones to balance out the color and make them look natural.

Your bleached hair is porous and you need to tone it gently to avoid ending up with an overly intense ash, and potentially another color correction problem. The blonde dye you use should preferably be a pearl or ash shade — at least one level lighter than the color you want. If you want medium natural blonde, use a light ash blonde to tone it. A lighter tone gives you more control over the toning process and you're not rushing to rinse it out two minutes after applying it.

You can leave this dye in to process for the full development time if you want an ashier blonde hair color, or you can remove it at any time once you've reached your desired shade of blonde. After that, it's just a matter of maintaining your new blonde hair and you'll want to buy a decent purple toning shampoo to keep it from becoming yellow again. If you choose a good purple shampoo, it will be the only form of toner you need. This will greatly simplify your hair care routine.

Dyeing your orange hair darker

If your orange hair ordeal has turned you away from any further pursuit of blonde, and you simply want to rinse your hair of the problem, the easiest way to fix orange hair is to dye over it with a darker color. You can choose to return to your previous hair color, or a new color entirely. The only stipulation is that the hair dye needs to be darker than your orange hair in order to cover it.

Hair dye mistakes aren't the end of the world, and you'll probably make a few more in your lifetime. There is always a way to fix any coloring mistake, and orange hair is no exception. It's all part of the learning experience that comes with the territory. If you enjoy dyeing your hair, there will always be an adventure waiting.

Have you ended up with a disastrous dye job and need help to fix orange hair? Or do you have a funny color mishap story? Leave a comment for tailored advice and share your insight with other readers.

© 2014 Maffew James

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    • help 2 years ago

      Hi! I have some questions!! Okay brief hair history: I am a natural dark golden blonde. I have been almost every hair color in the book from platinum to dark drown and to most recently 6-7R. My hair is very forgiving, thankfully, and is in very good condition. I have done most of by dying myself, going to the salon for highlights and more detail orientated procedures. Anyway, I have never had any issues except now, trying to get this red out of my hair! (Side Note: I have been red for less than 6 months) I did a color stripper, as you suggested in your previous article. It took some out, but not much. Next I followed with a bleach bath, because they are supposed to be gentler. It left me with an awful orange color. I left in a deep conditioning, protein treatment overnight after that to help my hair through the processes. Hair was incredibly soft the next morning. The next day I did a full bleach, only 20 vol developer. It has left me at this super weird color which is gold/cooper/orange (very vibrant) mid shafts through ends and my roots are pretty much stark white. My hair started showing tiny signs of damage on the ends, I trimmed them up (good hair scissors of course). I am aiming for a dark blonde. Do you suggest I do one more bleach wash (mid shafts to ends only) to tone out some of the orange, or dye it from here? The color I have is two 7.31 (Medium gold ash) by SAFRANISIM'OH, and one tube of 7A Ion Color Brilliance Creme to do toning afterwards if necessary. I am unable to go back to the color store, since it is at least an hour drive away.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi, thanks for the question.

      You've done well so far. As I've mentioned in some of my articles, hair color is based on a level system and as you move down from the brown range to the blonde range, the base color changes from red to golden. A dark blonde can still be achieved on a golden to orange base though, and you don't need to completely remove all the orange to dye it dark blonde.

      As for your color banding, this has happened because the roots of your hair haven't been dyed, or at least haven't been dyed as much as the lengths have with all your color changes, so they're more susceptible to bleaching. Add in the higher temperature closer to the scalp and this is why they've turned white.

      What you have to do now is take your Ion 7A and use it to tone your hair. A lot of people are confused by this, because you probably want the beige blonde color of the 7.31 right? The problem is that you need ash tone to counteract the orange that's in your hair. If you put the 7.31 through your hair now, the orange won't be neutralised and you don't end up with the color you want, your hair just stays orange.

      Mix the Ion 7A with 10 vol developer and apply it to the lengths of your hair. Don't apply it to the white roots though or they will become very ashy. You want to really focus the dye application on the darkest, most orange hair. If at all possible, apply the ash dye to the most orange sections first, then to the lighter golden banding. The dye will need more time to work on the orange than it will on the gold, and if you apply it in this order it will tone to an even color and get rid of the banding.

      Once it's applied, you need to watch it carefully now. You should leave it to develop until the orange is toned down. If you want a color that is more beige, rinse it out sooner. If you want a cooler ashy tone, leave it in for longer.

      Now if you need any further clarification on this process or have any more questions, I'd be well and truly glad to help. Good luck with your hair and happy coloring, I hope all goes well for you.

    • fernanda 2 years ago

      Hi, I am a natural brunette and went to the salon to get ombré on wednesday. It turns out however that my hair looks orange rather than blonde and it's driving me crazy. They toned it at the salon but I guess that did no good. I am freaking out, it's a disgusting orange. If I use blue shampoo would that make the orange turn blonde or brown? Should i use the shampoo and wait a decent amount of time to go back to the salon and get it bleached again to prevent damage or go right ahead and bleach it again? Please help!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi,

      It's always best to give your hair some time to rest after it has been bleached. A week is generally enough, and then only bleach it again if it's in good enough condition.

      You can use the blue shampoo if you like. Blue does neutralize orange tones, but it depends how concentrated the shampoo is. If your orange is quite dark, the shampoo won't do much to change the color. It wouldn't tone it to blonde either, it would be closer to a light brown. Your hair needs to be lightened a bit more before it can be toned to blonde.

      So give your hair at least a week to rest and regain its hydration, then if it's still strong and healthy, you can bleach it again to go lighter. If your hairdresser can manage to reach the yellow stage, it will tone to a really nice blonde. The ombré effect looks great once you pass that hurdle.

    • 2 years ago

      Hi,I need some help. 3 months ago I dyed my hair "the ombre style" and my hairdresser did great! I loved it. He bleached it at my strands and then dyed my hair with the color "Medium ash blonde" But it's been 3 months,my hair has grown quite a lot and I decided to touch up my roots yesterday. Guess what! It came out horrible. The top of my head has an orange/brown tone and I absolutely hate it. I didn't dye the strands because I knew it would make the blonde hair fade away. A friend of mine advised me to use the purple shampoo so that it can help with the orange/brown tones,but since I never used it i'm not sure if it's right. I don't really understand why the color turned differently then when the hairdresser did my hair because we used the same color and brand and now it's a completely different color. Can you help me? I'd appreciate it so much. Thanks :)

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi L,

      Did you bleach your hair first like your hairdresser did? Or did you just apply the dye?

      As you probably noticed when your hairdresser did your ombre, when you bleach hair it goes through several color changes. Black lightens to dark brown, then starts to turn red, then orange, and finally to yellow. You need to at least reach a golden shade with little remaining orange before you can dye hair blonde.

      What I suspect has happened is that your hair hasn't lightened as much this time. If your hair is still a dark orange color, no amount of toning will make it blonde, and a medium ash blonde will have almost no effect. You need to lighten it more before you can tone it to blonde.

      As for the purple shampoo, that would be a waste of your money. Purple shampoo tones blonde hair because violet tone neutralizes yellow tone. You need to use blue to correct orange. The shampoo is also too weak to tone hair that's still dark like yours. It is however a great way to maintain your ash blonde once you reach the blonde color you want.

    • Xuse 2 years ago

      Hi, I have really dark brown asian hair and I wanted to get a vibrant dark violet so recently dyed my hair using a blond dye to lighten so the violet dye would show up better . It came out an orange and I don't know if dying the orange with the violet will make it go some weird color.

      Please help

    • lisa 2 years ago

      Hi i have reached the lemon shade with my hair im hoping to achieve like a 9n can i put this on my hair if not what is the closest colour you could recommend to achieve this by brand and with what developer please thanks in advance xx

    • Should know better 2 years ago

      Hi, I had my daughter pull my hair through a cap for frost highlights last Wednesday, yikes! I'm glowing! First off,...way too much hair was pulled through the cap. It's dry, frizzy and tangled. I have conditioned, left in conditioner and chi oil and go to bed with my hair wet. I have now decided to only wash every 4 days instead of my normal every 2 days to assist with restoring moisture ( the moisture is getting better at least on the top and sides of my in the middle of my back length hair that gets colored every two months before this bleaching dilemma.

      My question is this,....how soon can I recolor over the bleach? If I use an all over color will the medium ash blonde take on the bleached areas? Or would adding low liters be best for the next 7-8 weeks then an all over color?

      Please help and thanks,

      Sincerely I don't want to glow any more!

    • Alex 2 years ago

      Hi! I really need help. My sister has always been interested in dying her hair the lilac/ light purple color, and has been researching how others acheave their hair color on YouTube.. Well she bought everything that she needed and decided that tonight she would dye her hair.. Well she has very dark brown hair and had previously dyed the underneath a hot pink which she had let fad before doing this to her hair. She then bleached her hair with loreals Quick Blue bleach and we let it sit for quite some time.. But when we washed it out her hair was all sorts of colors. Her roots were a very light blonde which seemed to have darkened to an orange/ brownish color torwards the ends of her hair..and there was still some pink underneath her hair as well as some strands that have gotten so light it is white.. I know this is described as the "first phase" but I'm not sure what to do cause I really don't like seeing her so upset about how un even the hair turned out.. We are planning on talking to someone at a salon tomarriw morning for tips on what we can do and I was wondering if u could help:) thank you for reading this super long comment lol

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Xuse, what is the color brand and the color code of the dye? The code will either be a separate number, followed by one or more extra numbers, or a number followed by letters. These tell you how dark the color is, and what tones are present in the color. Specifically, I need to know the first number, called the level, in order to be able to tell you whether it will cover the orange.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Lisa,

      You can put the 9N on your hair and it will dye it to your desired color. If it gets a little brassy after that, just use a good toning shampoo and that will take care of it and keep it looking good.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi 'Should know better',

      Streaking caps will do that if you're not careful. If hair is pulled through every hole, it tends to be far too much. Foils are superior in this case.

      As for the coloring, it's usually not a good idea to apply a darker ash dye to light hair. The ash tone is too strong on light hair and your hair can turn blue or green. In this case, apply a natural tone if you plan to dye your hair all over.

      Lowlights are also a good idea. If you lowlight your hair all over, it will darken it up and you can still choose to retain some of the highlights. In this case, use a natural tone still, avoiding the ash tone.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Alex,

      The roots are lighter because the warmth from the scalp speeds up the lightening process.

      Some of the pink remains because semi-permanent dyes can not be effectively removed with bleach alone. The pink will lighten to a progressively lighter shade of pink rather than bleach out. At this point it would be best to avoid bleaching the pink hair any further. You can tone the pink out once you get to the point where the hair is light enough all over to dye lilac.

      As for the mid-lengths and ends, you'll notice that it gets progressively darker towards the ends because:

      1. The further from the scalp, the less lightening taking place because of the different temperatures.

      2. The ends of your hair are older hair that has generally been dyed more compared to the hair closer to the scalp. Hair that has been dyed will not lighten as effectively.

      3. The bleach mixture tends to dry out quicker on the ends of your hair than it does at the scalp. If bleach dries out, it stops lightening. The moist bleach close to the scalp works more effectively.

      To avoid this, you can start by bleaching hair away from the roots, then applying it to your roots as the mid-lengths and ends have lightened a little for an even overall color. You can also protect the bleach by cling wrapping the hair. This stops the bleach from drying out, keeps the hair closer to the scalp to regulate the temperate to be more similar all across the hair, and speeds up the lightening by keeping warmth inside the cling wrap.

      As for fixing the uneven color, I would recommend you go back and apply more bleach to the darker hair after your sister has allowed her hair to rest for at least a week. Do this only if it is still in good enough condition to stand up to another bleaching. Apply the bleach to the darkest hair first, then progressively apply bleach as the hair lightens so that it all becomes even.

      Your next move is to reach a light yellow so that you can dye it lilac. Lilac is quite a light color and it works best when applied to light blonde hair. Her hair will need to be a light yellow color for the best results.

      If there is pink left in the back of her hair and she wants to get rid of it before applying the lilac, you can tone that out with a very very weak green color. This happens because green counteracts red. This is the same process that occurs when you tone blonde hair, except in that case you are using purple and blue to tone yellow and orange respectively.

    • Amzy 2 years ago

      This is my hair after using "revlon frost n glow"...

      http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/Miss_Gill/...

      http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/Miss_Gill/...

      Yeaaahhh...the left side wasn't done as well as the right...and I got orangey and got higher up then I expected...I really just want any fix to make it look more natural. Does anyone have any suggestions?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Amzy,

      Were you aiming for blonde? If you wanted blonde ombre, you will need to lighten it more first. Otherwise you can tone the orange with a light ash brown dye to neutralize the color.

    • Amzy 2 years ago

      Maffew,

      I was advised to use Clairol Shimmer Lights to "tone down the brassiness". Do you think that'd help? I'm not sure what it'll turn out like.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      It wouldn't do anything because your hair is too dark and too orange. Purple shampoo only works properly on blonde hair, and the purple tone itself can only neutralize yellow.

    • Nika 2 years ago

      Hi, I really need help! Last night I colored my light ash brown natural hair to medium blond but it turned out light orange especially in the front! I have to fix it until tomorrow because I'm travelling. Please help me I want to go back to my natural hair color!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Nika, apply a light natural brown shade and you should have a close approximation of your natural color. That's a 5.0 or 5N in most dye brands.

      In case you're wondering, even though your natural color is an ash tone, I wouldn't recommend using an ash brown dye. Your hair is lighter now and the ash will turn out very strong if you use it. That's why a natural tone is the best option.

    • Elle2013 2 years ago

      Hi! What an informative post!

      I have a question for you that I'm hoping somehow you'll see today. ;) One month ago I had my hair done in the salon for the third time and of course after one shampoo it changed from the beautiful ash the stylist did to something else.

      Last night, after finding out toners will not work in toning it--i know nothing about hair--I decided to give in ad bleach it cause I'm not going back to the salon for a 4th time to have my hair literally wash out after one shampoo.

      Now I'm a little stuck about which shampoo and dye to use to change my hair to after I perform a 2nd bleach job. I have provided links to my pictures that show 1. My hair the same day after the stylist did it and what I would love it to look closet to again (ash with my natural dark brown showing through 2. what my hair changed to on its own 3. the same as two but pic taken in bathroom at 4am verses 2. that was taken during the day and finally 4. after one at-home bleach session.

      To get to the ash tone I had before I am hoping to use Wella 8a perm creme gel haircolor, but know my stylist mentioned using a warm color too so that my hair didn't turn too ashy and wonder if I should use 8a Light Ash brown and then in some sections another color? I would also like to darken certain pieces near the front of my face and wonder if I should use a N like you mentioned with another commenter?

      I know since my hair is orange now that I would use a purple shampoo, but once I bleach again and it goes more yellow should I use a blue shampoo and then would I no longer use a blue based dye such as 8A and switch to something with a blue violet base to counteract the now yellow bleach job?

      Agh it's all so confusing!! Thank you in advance. I've searched many postings and so far you are the only person who really seems to understand what you are talking about.

      Here is a link to my shutterfly album showing the dif hair stages:

      http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Ib...

    • Elle2013 2 years ago

      ^ I mean blue shampoo with orange and purple with blonde

    • Ela ela 2 years ago

      Where have you been? Why haven't i found you till now? A MUST READ! Thank you!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Elle, thanks for the interesting question and I apologise for how long it has taken me to reply,

      All hair dye fades; even permanent colour. This is especially true in hair that has been bleached because the hair becomes porous and whilst it will soak up colour really well, it tends to wash back out just as fast. That's why your colour fades after shampooing your hair. The only thing you need to do to fix this is tone it again. There's no need to bleach your hair unless you actually want to go lighter than the picture of the colour you want.

      I would suggest Wella Koleston 8/81, or Iso I.Color 8SA. Both of these colours are soft, blue based ash dyes and can be used to neutralise a lot of the warmth without turning your hair too ashy. There's no need to subdue the ash with another colour if you use a dye like this.

      For the darker sections you want, you can indeed use a neutral shade. A level 5 would be best for this. Depending on brand, the dye will either be designated 5N or 5.0.

      As far as shampoo goes, there's not really many good toning shampoos to use on brown hair. Whilst blue does neutralise orange, and violet neutralises yellow, the pigment in the shampoo just isn't strong enough to correct the huge amount of pigment in brown hair. Brown hair that looks orange has far more actual orange tone than blonde hair that looks orange, because the colour itself is darker. Blue shampoos are mainly for blonde hair that is showing orange tone, or for those who want a strong silver result in their blonde hair.

      You could however, use De Lorenzo Cool Natural shampoo to maintain the colour for longer. This is an ash shampoo designed to be used on brown hair to neutralise warm tones. Even better would be to use a semi-permanent dye like Igora Expert Mousse 8.1 to maintain the colour. You can use this every time you wash your hair, right after shampooing. Alternatively, you can use it whenever you feel like your colour is looking too warm. Products like these are the best way to maintain the colour and reverse fading.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Thank you Ela Ela, I'm glad you found the article helpful.

    • Ela ela 2 years ago

      Hi! I have blonde hair, a 9 i woud say and lighter at the ends! I'm blue eyes and that look good on me but i would like to get to a dark blonde, smth between 7-8 . I bleach the root and bleach bath all the length time to time.

      First, even when i do, roots tend to look darker , no mater what color do i put afterward!

      I would like to know what color to use to roots after bleach to be a even 9!

      And please, could you tell me what to use to get to a dark blonde? I died with dark ash blonde 7.1 and 10 vol several times, but than i go back to 9 again after several washes! What am i doing rong?

      Thanks again for this page!

    • Liz 2 years ago

      hello, I just did a bleach bath on my highlighted dark blonde hair. its now lighter a yellow blonde, but my darker highlights look a bit orange? can I tone and will the orange tone as well since it isn't blonde..

    • Nina 2 years ago

      I have blonde hair! A level 8-9! I intend on getting pregnant and want to get back to my natural color which is smth 5 i guess! A lot of number between! How can do that? Is it best to do after my roots grow or now that i am totally blonde?

      As you are a professional, do you recommend this or it would be better a sunkiss look? If you think this is a better idea, please write to me what color would you sugest so i look natural!

      Here where i live is hard to find a professional to do the job right! And all you can find is hair die, no toners, no depozit shampo and conditioner!

      Sorry i took you so much time!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Ela Ela,

      You seem to have two questions here: how to achieve an even level 9 blonde, and how to dye a level 9 darker to a level 7. I'd be happy to answer both for you.

      Achieving an even level 9: As you know when dyeing your hair blonde, dark roots are a problem as your hair grows. The reason your roots don't look the same colour is that they haven't been lightened enough. Depending on how dark your roots actually are, you may not be able to reach the same colour in one bleach. If you put a level 9 blonde dye on roots that are too dark, it won't do anything because the colour is too weak. You just need to ensure your hair is the same lightness from roots to ends if you want an even colour.

      How to reach a darker blonde: If you want to go darker, you need to use a natural shade instead of an ash. Even though you may want dark ash blonde, when you use dark ash dyes on light hair, it can turn blue or green because there's not enough warm pigment left in your hair to balance the colour out.

      A natural shade is also better because it is a balance of the different tones. Ash dye will fade really quickly because it is just cool tones. Natural dyes have a balance of red, yellow, and blue to give you the depth you need for a darker colour, and this is why they're used to dye grey hair. If you want a colour that is cooler, mix in a little of the ash tone with the natural to cool it down.

      In this case, the dye you should be using is a 7.0, also known as 7N. You can mix in a little 7.1 ash if wanted, or even a little of the equivalent gold shade to create a beige blonde colour.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Liz,

      You can tone any colour. You can tone brown hair, you can tone orange, you can even tone green or purple out if it ever becomes necessary. The colour result depends on how dark the hair is, and as you're aware, darker orange hair won't tone to blonde. It will still tone, but it will become a light brown colour when it's neutralised.

      Because your hair is highlighted, this presents a slight problem as far as toning goes. You see, in order to use a colour that is dark enough to tone the orange, the yellow would be overtoned. Whilst if you use a colour that is lighter to tone the yellow, the orange is barely changed.

      The best idea is to tone the yellow to a nice cool blonde using an ash dye, because the yellow is more dominant. The orange highlights will tone a little from this, but will mostly remain warm. However, when you look at the colour as a whole, the orange highlights add warmth to your base colour. If your base is a nice cool ash, the result is that your hair will look beige from the combination and you won't notice any orange or yellow any more.

      Otherwise, you can isolate the strands of orange hair using the tail of a tail comb and bleach them in foil to lighten them up to the same colour as the rest of your hair, or you can dye the yellow hair darker using a natural shade to reach the same colour all over. It just depends on what result you really want to achieve, and whether you would prefer an all over colour or are happy with the highlights staying.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Nina, that's exciting news, congratulations!

      You don't need to wait for the roots to show; you can dye it straight away. Would you say your natural colour is a light brown, medium brown, or dark brown? Also, would you say it looks ashy, neutral, or warm? An ash brown will look slightly greyish, whilst a neutral brown is balanced. A warm brown can look golden or slightly red.

      If you can give me a good idea of what your natural colour looks like, I can recommend a shade of dye to reach a close colour. This way, when your roots begin to grow out, you won't see much of a difference and you can avoid using any more dye once your pregnant.

    • Elle2013 2 years ago

      Thank you!!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      I'm glad to have been helpful Elle. Good luck with your colour!

    • Nina 2 years ago

      I am a medium brown, neutral one! They tend to look darker now since i died it blonde, but is medium! I remember that when i was a kid all tend to say to my i was chesnut! Don't now the difrence!

      Should i use a amonia die or a amonia free die would be better?

      Hope to have a girl! My husbant want ''a little me''!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Dye it with a 4.0 then. That's a natural medium brown and will get you back to your natural colour.

      The ammonia issue is largely scaremongering. Ammonia is required to open the hair shaft so that permanent dye can penetrate and colour your hair. Any dye that doesn't contain ammonia isn't permanent, and any permanent dye that is non-ammonia simply uses a similar chemical that performs the same function and has the same effect on your hair.

      The main thing here is to use a permanent dye so the colour lasts and you can avoid using any dye while pregnant.

    • Ela ela 2 years ago

      I want to achive a natural 7 so it complement my face! You know the saying that a natural blonde when she goes to 14-15 years have a blonde non lighter than 7 in most cases!

      For mixing for a cooler tone, should i use a little of a 7.1 or a little of die tube that says 'ash' on it!

      And smth else, my old hairdresser used to do me a 'conditioning filler' to tone down brassines:

      1 part dye 8.1 (amonia free)

      1 part peroxide 10 vol

      4 part conditioner For 20-30 min! Is that okay?

      Thank you!

    • Nika808 2 years ago

      Help! I went to a salon to slightly lighten my yellow blonde hair. It came out grey. He tried to fix it, but not much better.

      I added a golden blonde, but found it too dark. I bleached and it was too bright and too yellow, so I added a lilac toner for less than five minutes. I guess my hair was too porous because now I have lilac hair.

      How can I get a natural light blonde?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Ela Ela,

      It depends on the brand of dye you're using. In most brands, ash tone is either .1 or A, meaning a level 7 ash would be a 7.1 or a 7A. In other brands, there are a variety of different ash tones used. Wella, for example, uses 1 to mean grey ash, 2 to mean matte ash that is green based and used to tone down strong red tones. Use whatever dye is an ash toned 7 in your chosen dye brand, and mix that with the natural tone from the same brand.

      When mixing dyes, always make sure you only mix dyes from the same brand, and the same colour line. Don't mix different brands, or different lines of the same brand. For example, if you were using Matrix SoColor, you could mix absolutely any SoColor dye together, but you wouldn't mix it with another brand or with Matrix Color Sync dye, because they are a different line.

      As for the toner formula used by your hairdresser, you can use something like this to tone your hair if you want, but it's unnecessary. It's better to use a semi-permanent dye like Igora Expert Mousse to tone your hair when it needs a dramatic refresh. The mousse can be applied to dry hair for intense toning, or you can apply it instead of conditioner after you shampoo your hair. It will cause no damage whatsoever. Match that with a strong color refresher shampoo like De Lorenzo Silver or Fudge Violet shampoo and your hair will never look brassy.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      No problem Liz. Good luck with your colour. If you need any further help, feel free to ask.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Nika,

      You're right about your hair being porous. What has happened is that bleach increases the porosity of hair. Hair that is dyed immediately after bleaching is very receptive to colour and the ash dye your hairdresser used turned out far more intense than expected, leading to the grey result.

      For the most part your hairdresser wouldn't have known this was going to happen, as some people just have really porous hair that responds strangely to colour. However, the ash he used may have also simply have been too dark for your hair after it was lightened.

      You were also on the right track by adding gold back in to counter the ash. The problem here is that the gold you used was also either too dark, or your porous hair absorbed it too well. The lilac toner is the same situation.

      You have a few options now. You can leave it, washing it as often as possible with clarifying shampoo to strip the lilac toner out. This could happen fairly quickly, or it may not budge at all. That's the problem with porous hair, it can soak up colour but it might simply all wash out just as quickly.

      Another option is to apply a bleach wash to strip out the excess colour, then tone it properly with a pastel ash that won't overpower your hair, or to merely tone it with a blonde shampoo.

      Lastly, you can add gold back in to neutralise the excess violet tone. In this case, you need to be careful to only use enough gold tone to get rid of some of the violet and reach a nice beige colour. You can use a weak colour like Igora Expert Mousse 9.5-4 to do this. This is a very mild beige semi that can either be used in dry hair or applied like conditioner after shampooing. The gold tone in this mousse will correct the excess violet and this may be the easiest option for you.

    • Nina 2 years ago

      Thank you! Now i know what to do!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      I'm glad to have helped you. Good luck with your new colour.

    • Ela ela 2 years ago

      Very clear!

      Truly thank you!

    • Melissa 2 years ago

      Hi everyone! This article was very informative to this hair-dying novice, but I still have some questions..

      I've never dyed my hair before, but this summer I started putting sun-in in my short, medium-brown hair. I had blonde hair as a kid, and my eyes are light, so I thought it would be natural-ish looking.

      Well it looked ok, but it is a little too orange now, and my roots are growing back in. I'd like to just go back to my natural color, but I've never used any kind of box hair dye before, and I'm scared to ruin my hair!

      Any tips for me to go back to my medium brown/auburn hair? Should I just pick the box color that looks like my natural hair?

      Thanks!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      No problem Ela Ela. Good luck with your colour!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Melissa,

      I don't recommend box dyes to anyone. They're just greatly inferior to salon dyes, aren't any cheaper, and misrepresent the actual colour using pictures on the box. However, if you don't know much about hair dyes and haven't really dyed your hair before, you may find them easier to use.

      When you look at hair colour, you have two main factors going into what a shade looks like: how dark the colour is, and the tones involved. Depth is on a scale where 1 is black, 3 is dark brown, ranging through to light brown as a 5. Blondes start at 6 as dark blonde and range all the way to a 10, lightest blonde. This is called the level.

      Tone is the colour direction. Ash and pearl are cool toned. Browns in these tones look slightly grey. Natural is a neutral tone. It's in between warm and cool. Golden, copper, and red are all warm toned and look anything from a golden colour to an auburn.

      To find the exact colour to match your hair, take the level of your natural hair, and the primary tone, and match the shade. For example, if you have medium brown hair, and your natural colour looks golden, the colour you should use is a medium golden brown.

      If you don't understand any of this or have any other questions, feel free to ask. If you're having trouble identifying your natural shade, I'd also be happy to identify the shade for you.

    • Kynsleigh 2 years ago

      I've been in the process of bleaching my hair back to platinum blonde, except to avoid too much damage this time I've been bleaching it once a month. Before I bleached it today it was a dark copper orange/brown color, and now it turned into a mixture of dark yellow, orange and dark orange. I have Wella T18 lightest ash blonde Toner, I'm not expecting it to turn blonde at all, but I was wondering if it would at least tone out the orange tones. I have a special occasion to goto tomorrow night and I really don't want to have to put a darker dye over it.

      Thank you!

    • AndyCh 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew

      This article is really very informative !! Although I'm still in need of some help...

      I'm natural ash blonde, I think I'm 6 and I was using 7,1 to dye my hair, but after a couple of showers it turned out orange and sometimes with a bit of green.

      Now I'm struggling with a lot of orange hair. After reading a lot I've tried to tone down my hair with pure blue and it worked but left my hair too dark too.

      Now I'm wondering if I should use a dye based blue-violet (instead of ash-green) and I'd like to use a 8 dye, lighter than what i have now.

      Maybe a dye 8,2 (inoa?) should help me get rid of brassiness?

      What do you think? I don't want my roots lighter than my ends, how do I need to apply it ?

      Also do you think purple shampoo would help? I have recently bought one (loreal), and used one time, without a lot of change so far.

      I really appreciate your help here, I'm from Argentina, and unfortunately don't have luck with salons and colorists, so I'm learning on my own.

      THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

      Andy

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Kynsleigh,

      Wella T18 won't tone out the orange unfortunately. It's designed to be used on pale yellow hair. It may tone some of the yellow out though, but any effect will be mild. If you can get Igora Expert Mousse 8.1, that will tone your hair. It's a semi-permanent mousse so it will wash back out before you bleach your hair again and won't impact you're lightening.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Andy,

      You're on the right track with the blue. The reason the 7.1 didn't tone your hair very well is because of the dye brand you're using. In most cases, salon ash dyes will switch over from a green base to a blue base once you reach the orange stage, which is from level 6 to 8 approximately. After that, they're meant to transition again into a violet blue because the hair is primarily yellow at that point. Some brands continue to use a green base however, and this won't tone orange or yellow properly. You end up with some toning, but a green caste that doesn't look very good.

      Then you have other brands that whilst their main ash will transition through colour bases as it should, they also produce different kinds of ash that suit different purposes. Wella .1 for example, is a regular ash tone that will be green based at the brown level, blue based at the darker blonde levels, and violet blue for lighter blondes. But they also produce a .2 that is green based even if using a light dye. This is used for toning red out of blonde hair, and you'll mainly encounter this when you're removing permanent hair dye. Instead of going through the different stages of colour, the hair eventually just becomes a progressively lighter red. This is the one circumstance where you actually want a green based blonde colour.

      The Inoa dye will get rid of brassiness, but it's a pearl dye. Pearl dyes are violet based and will work best on yellow hair. You could mix Inoa 8.21 with a little 8.1 and that will add some extra blue based ash in to round out the toning. You could also use a brand like Fudge Headpaint that has intensifier tones. Their 0.88 is a pure blue that can be added to any of their other dyes where you need extra blue to tone out orange. Otherwise, if you use Matrix, Wella, or Igora, their ash blonde dyes primarily use a blue violet base at that level, so they will tone the orange without turning your hair green. You could use an 8.1 in any of these brands. In this case, Matrix SoColor is 8A, Wella is 8/1, and Igora is 8.1.

      For the application, the roots won't turn lighter, and your hair itself won't lighten as long as you mix the dye with 5 vol or 10 vol developer. Because you're using the dye to tone your hair, rather than lighten your hair, you use a low volume of developer which oxidises the colour but doesn't really have any lightening effect. If your hair tends to be very receptive to lightening, apply the dye to the lengths first, then to the roots after 10 - 15 minutes have passed and this will avoid any colour difference.

      As for the purple shampoo, it won't really do anything. Your hair is just too dark for the shampoo pigment. You could try De Lorenzo Silver, which is a concentrated blue violet shampoo, strong enough to use on dark blonde or even light brown hair. You could even use a semi-permanent mousse like Igora Expert Mousse 8.1 to tone your hair when it's looking a bit brassy.

      If you need any further help, or clarification with any of this, feel free to ask and I'll answer any further questions you have. Good luck with your hair colouring!

    • Dottie C 2 years ago

      Hi –

      First of all thank you so much for answering everyone’s questions, this is great.

      My question is this, I’m about a natural level 4.5/5 hair. Not realizing the drastic difference between salon and box kit color about two and half weeks ago I decided to use a box color that I liked. My hair is now a med to light blorange color. It’s lifted to about a level 6/6.5 now I think... I’d really like to get it to be a nice cool blonde something like Kim Basigner in LA Confidential.

      After reading some of your posts I was thinking I would need to lift my hair with developer + bleach to get the orange out and then go back in with a low vol developer and tube of color to get from banana yellow to the cool blonde that I want. However I think I may be confused and/or there may be another way to do this?

      Would a tube of permanent blonde hair color ex. L’anza 9nv already have the bleach mixed into it so that all I need to do is mix it with developer and the end result would be that the orange has been lifted, my hair has lifted to a level 7.5 and that color has been deposited to get the blonde that I’m looking for?

      Or, do I need to use developer plus bleach, then rinse, then developer plus a tube of color?

      If I had to do a two-step process and bleach first then color I was going to use Dioxygen Cool shades 20vol violet developer with bleach powder (but have no idea what powder to use), then I was going to use L’anza 10 vol developer with the L’anza light natural violet 9NV color to color it.

      If I only have to do a one-step process should I just use L’anza 20vol developer with the L’anza light natural violet 9NV color? Would you suggest pairing the L’anza developer and the L’anza color or would you recommend using the Dioxygen violet developer with the L’anza 9NV color? I’ve read the L’anza developer is the healthiest for your hair and I assume you get best results using the same brand across the board, but really I have no idea.

      Also once I’m done is there any technique or any product that can seal the color in to make it last longer?

      Thank you so much for any help that you can offer. Looking forward to the possibility of having the blonde I've always wanted!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Dottie,

      I'm glad to do it. Providing tutorials and explaining something in an article is only so helpful. I'd rather readers explain their own individual hair needs so that I can offer them tailored advice that will help them work with their own hair and get the results they want.

      Onto your hair colour...the orange-gold lightening stage is indeed a level 6. Kim Basinger's hair in L.A Confidential looks to be about a level 8 - 9 judging by pictures. In order to reach that colour, your hair needs to be lightened to the yellow stage. That means, no orange left, and no gold - it has to be lemon yellow.

      There's an old maxim that "colour can't lift colour", referring to the fact that hair dye can't lighten hair that has been dyed. The moment you used that box dye was the moment you wouldn't be able to lighten your hair any further with another dye. In most cases at least anyway.

      To get the colour you want, you will need to bleach your hair, then tone it, just like you thought. You can use whatever developer you want; that violet Dioxygen will help drab warmth out of your hair as it lightens, making it ever so slightly easier to tone later on when you get to that step, but it's not important. Do ensure you use 20 vol though. That's the perfect strength for the job at hand.

      As for the bleach powder, I'd recommend using a good quality salon bleach like Indola Rapid Blonde, Igora Vario, or Wella Multi Blonde. Each of these offer superior lift and will lighten more effectively, quicker, and with less damage than a generic brand. Indola Rapid Blonde is my absolute favourite bleach powder.

      After you apply the bleach, you need to let it lighten to the bright yellow stage I mentioned earlier. If it still has a little gold left, that's not too much of a problem, but you really need to get as close to the bright yellow as possible for a nice blonde that looks similar to Kim. Also, if you are using a blue bleach powder, that makes toning easier, just like the violet developer, but make sure you wipe it away from the hair to see what stage it is at when you check your hair. The thick coating of blue bleach can make your hair look lighter than it actually is and you'll be surprised when you rinse it out and it's still darker than you thought it would be. If you need any more help with the bleaching process, you should take a look at my article: 'How to bleach hair'.

      Once your hair is at the yellow stage, rinse out the bleach. Blow dry your hair, or let it dry naturally, then you can proceed to the toning. I've never used L'anza dyes, so I can't give you any specific advice there. The 9NV should be a slightly cool natural, and you can definitely use it to tone your hair. Otherwise, I.Color soft ash shades are one of the nicest ash blondes I've ever used, and you could use their 9SA to get that silvery natural blonde. Other dyes you could use include Indola 9.2 (Another of my favourites), or Matrix 9-1.

      Whichever dye you're using, the main thing is to use one that is a level 9, and a violet-blue ash base. Mix it with 10 vol developer, apply, and leave until it develops to the exact colour you want. The developer can be any brand you want, but there's no such thing as a healthy developer. All developer is peroxide, and it is the oxidation from the peroxide that damages hair. You can't avoid this, because oxidation is the process that makes dye permanent, as well as lightens hair. The damage is an unintended side effect because the oxidation also damages the protein that your hair is made out of.

      Furthermore, the idea that you should use the same brand of developer as your dye really just relates to the consistency. Branded developers are formulated to be the perfect consistency to be mixed with that particular dye. The end result...your colour mixes up easier, but there is no change to the dyeing. As I said above, all developer is peroxide. The other ingredients...water, stabilisers, conditioning agents...etc, don't make a difference to the way it works. Dioxygen is a special case because it is tinted, so using it will add extra tone to a dye, but that's a moot point when you're using the correct dye.

      Finally, there's not really a way you can make colour last longer. When you lighten your hair with bleach or hair dye, it tends to become porous and colour fades quicker. The best thing to do to replace the lost colour is to use a good blonde shampoo like De Lorenzo Silver, or Fudge Violet to counteract the fading whenever you wash your hair. These shampoos are so strong that you don't even need to use them every wash for light blonde hair, and you'll never experience fading or brassy hair. If you do want extra toning though, you can use a semi like Igora Expert Mousse 9,5.1 to tone your hair without causing damage. This is a pastel ash that can be applied after shampooing your hair, or on dry hair for extra toning.

      Good luck with your colour and if you need any further help or have any more questions about this entire colour process, or even any other questions about your hair, feel free to ask.

    • Dottie C 2 years ago

      Thank you for this information now I see where I was getting mixed up. I tried to find the bleach options you suggest but can't. Could I use Wella Blondor Cream Lightener w Koleston Perfect devloper ? I am getting the Fudge shampoo you suggested and read somewhere in your posts the Joico K pack is good for the hair, would I be able to use this on toned hair? I also came across a brand Aphogee if you are familiar do you recommend any of their treatments?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      If you mean Wella Soft Blonde Cream, you can definitely use that bleach and you'll get good results.

      Joico K-PAK Reconstructor is great for restoring your hair condition. It's a protein treatment that repairs the structural damage to the hair shaft. You can use this, or you can use one of ApHogee's protein treatments if you're interested in that brand. Redken Cat is the absolute best repair treatment though. It can literally save hair that seems ruined.

      Otherwise, you also have conditioning treatments. One of these is good to restore moisture after bleaching and to get rid of the dryness from the process. These kinds of treatments don't restore damaged hair; they just help with dryness.

    • Ela 2 years ago

      Hello! Hope you have time for me! I dyed my hair blonde for several years, blonde 9!

      Last night i dyed my hair

      50 ml 7.o natural

      25 ml 7.1

      75 ml hydrogen 10 volume.

      I think that i left it for 45 minutes , i wanted do go for dark blonde!

      The problem is that they came back really dark! My roots look like medium deep brown, like a orange-red tint on it, and my ends like light brown! I look so old , 10 year older! Can i fix it to get to dark blonde?

      Does it fade to dark blonde after several washing?

      Or do i need to bleach and began again?

      If i do need to bleach, we do not have those brands that strip out the color, is a bleach bath enough or should i do a regular bleach?

      Thank you! Waiting for your replay!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Ela,

      When you dye hair blonde, it often becomes porous and will turn out darker than expected when you dye over it because it really soaks up the colour. Some brands are also not true to level and just turn out darker than they should.

      I can tell you with a lot of certainty that if you give it two weeks the colour will fade significantly. If you want to expedite the process, you can wash it a few times with clarifying shampoo and it will fade rapidly. There's no need to use a bleach here.

      As for the roots, I'm taking it they were your natural colour, grown out, before you applied the dye? In that case, the 7 you used lightened the roots a little, causing the red tone to appear. If you want them to be dark blonde, you will need to bleach them and then tone them. If you do this, apply the bleach to your roots only. Don't apply to the rest of your hair.

    • Ela 2 years ago

      No dear! My roots were blonde to, slightly darker with a little orange in it because i didn't bleach enough them, something between 8 and 9. Maybe the orange did thIs and I Only need to wait? Thank you so much!

    • zaraaaaa 2 years ago

      i have dark brown hair, and i have been going to the salon about 3 times now just getting lighter highlights but that wasn't enough for me. so last night i went in and i told her to dye my whole head like a lighter brown like an ashy brown, but it turned my hair a tint of orange. how can i fix this because i hate this color and its like a orange color and i just want like a natural looking light brown hair. helpppppp

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      In that case, it was the fact that your roots were darker and orange. The natural + ash combination you used can be used for darkening blonde hair to a darker ash colour, but it isn't ashy enough to tone out orange. If you want the roots to be the same colour, lighten them with a mild bleach, then tone them with ash.

      As for the darkness of your colour, that will fade quickly as you wash it. Use a clarifying shampoo if you want to speed this up.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Zara,

      What has happened here is that your hairdresser didn't use the right dye. When lightening hair, the dye should be an ash shade to counteract the warmth. Otherwise you will end up with orange hair instead of a nice brown colour. You can fix it by applying a light ash shade to counteract the orange. Use a dark ash blonde mixed with 10 vol developer and allow this to develop until your colour has toned to your desired shade. Rinse it out as soon as it reaches the right colour.

    • Ela 2 years ago

      Thank you! I will!

    • Brooke 2 years ago

      Hi ,

      my hair has orange/red tones to my natural medium brown hair. If I use a blue shampoo will it make my hair back too normal?

      Also if I dye my hair with a semi-permanent light ash brown colour, after it washes out will my hair still be orange/red ?

      Thanks

    • Brooke 2 years ago

      ^^

      About 5 months ago I wanted ombre hair so I did it myself. It was alright for about 1 month or so , then I picked up a brown semi permanent hair dye. It looked natural but when it washed out my hair was like a orange/red colour. I kept dying it with the same colour and the blonde is all gone now but I have orangey red tones in my hair and I hate it.

      That's my story to my hair aha

      Thanks again

    • Tina 2 years ago

      brooks problem is the same as mine although i bleached my full head blonde , natural dark brown.

      Which one do you recommend the blue shampoo or ash hair dye

    • Em 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew, thanks for taking the time to respond to so many of these questions! I have a similar problem as Zara except I dyed my own hair. I started with coarse virgin black hair and I picked out an ash blonde shade (8A One n' Only Argan). The employee at Sally's said to go with 40 developer and after one round of this, I have bright copper hair, a little lighter at the roots even though I did the roots 15 min after the rest of the hair.

      I still have some of the 8A shade left and I went back and grabbed some 20 developer. Would applying that mix over the copper lighten and tone it to more of an ash brown or is that a bad idea that might result in more copper? Or should I only use 10 developer like Zara? I'm hoping to do it in the morning because it's hard to leave the house with Bozo hair.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Brooke,

      Blue shampoo is usually only concentrated enough to cause a colour change in blonde hair. It's unlikely it would do anything for your brown hair. I'd recommend using a permanent light ash brown to correct the red. This won't wash out like a semi-permanent because the semi is designed to be temporary. Some fading still occurs with permanent dyes, but it's a lot less than you would have noticed with the semi-permanent.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Tina,

      In order to get blonde hair, your hair will need to be yellow before you tone it. The reason it turned orange is because it hasn't lightened enough to reach the blonde stage. You can, however, tone the orange out with a light ash brown dye if you want. This will correct the orange and take it to a light brown colour. But if you want to dye it blonde, you will need to lighten it more until it is yellow and then tone it with an ash blonde dye.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Em,

      When you have black hair and you want to go blonde, it has to be bleached first. The reason the ash blonde turned your hair orange is because it lightened your hair a little but it doesn't have enough colour to tone out the orange it revealed as it is a level 8.

      I wouldn't place too much faith in using the dye again at this stage. Hair that has been dyed becomes extremely difficult to lighten afterwards because the artificial colour fills up the hair cortex and is resistant to lightening. If you want to reach blonde, your best option is to bleach it to the yellow stage first and then tone it with the 8A.

      Alternatively, if you've given up on going blonde, you can tone out the copper with 6A to get you to a light brown colour.

    • Em 2 years ago

      Thanks so much for your reply! How I wish I found your site before going to the beauty supply shop and attempting this.

      I definitely don't want to go blonde anymore but I also don't want to go darker. If I use the 6A to tone out the copper, will I also be going a shade or two darker? I only want to get rid of the brassy tone without sacrificing any lightness. Thanks again, I really appreciate it! You are the best.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      No problem Em, I love to get questions like these because it helps people learn more about how to get great colour results at home.

      It depends how light the orange is. If you look at a hair base tone chart you can match your orange to the chart and find the approximate level. You should use an ash one level lighter than your current level for toning without darkening. Given that your hair is bright orange, it will most likely be a level 5, hence you would use a 6 ash to tone it.

    • Em 2 years ago

      I'm back! The ash dye was successful at toning out the copper for the most part! I used Wella 7AA since my hair was closer to a level 6. The only problem now is that my roots are still pretty bright orange. I definitely got "hot roots" on the first dye job even though I put the dye on the roots 15 min after doing the ends. I guess my head was extra hot that day. I'm guessing the next plan of attack is to use a higher level ash for the roots?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Welcome back Em,

      That's a little strange that your roots didn't tone as well when they're lighter than the lengths. Because they're lighter, the ash should have had a stronger effect on them.

      Try adding a small amount of Wella Koleston 0/81 to Koleston 7/1 and use that instead. The 0/81 is a blue mixer. By adding that in you'll be able to drab more orange tone out because blue neutralises orange. Both of these are Wella Koleston dyes (I'm assuming you've been using Color Charm so far?).

    • Em 2 years ago

      I did use Wella Color Charm. I'm not sure if I can get my hands on Wella Koleston, I've been getting my color from Sally Beauty Supply and they only carry Color Charm :( Is this similar? http://www.sallybeauty.com/hair-color-drabber/SBS-...

    • Em 2 years ago

      http://www.sallybeauty.com/ion-ash-intensifier/SBS... maybe this is closer to the Koleston additive.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      The Ion ash intensifier is the same kind of product. What I'm worried about however is that their ash will be green based and won't give you a nice brown. Green based ash is good for very red hair, but it won't tone orange hair properly. Wella 0/81 is actually blue.

      You'd think Sallys would have a wider selection given that they're known all over the world for it.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      I found the Ion technical manual. Turns out they do use a blue base for their ash. Try 6A on your roots. Just don't apply it to the lengths when you do this.

    • Joanne 2 years ago

      I always use Wella Color Charm 12NG with 20 Volume developer for about 30 minutes at home, but went to a salon for root touch up this time, and somehow the color didn't come up light enough even though I brought the color with me (maybe not left on long enough or?).

      How long do I have to wait to lighten it to the usual color and how long should I leave it on for if I do it at home?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Joanne,

      What is your natural colour and what are you lightening it to?

    • Ela ela 2 years ago

      Hello again! Followed your advise! Washed my hair and waited ! They lightened up to dark blonde, egzactly like you said ! Thank you again for the advises how to achieve the dark blonde!

      Now, when my root show up, they did grow , but they are not to visible since now i am a 7. When they show up, i am a 5 N, how do i achive a 7, like the rest of my hair? Do i use a 9 ash with 30 volume and control the color until i get to the result i want ? Or do i have to use smth else?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Ela,

      Glad to hear you've finally got the blonde you want. For the roots, use a 7 ash with 30 vol developer and lighten until it reaches the same shade. The dye will tone your hair as it lightens and you won't need to tone separately.

    • Ela ela 2 years ago

      Love you!

      Thank you for the tailored advise and for your time!

    • Camilla 2 years ago

      Hi, my hair is a medium brown with lots of golden and red undertones. (This is from box dye, my natural color is kind of a dark blonde) I really want to be a blonde. I just want to make sure if I understood this correctly. In order for me to achieve a blonde hair color, I need to bleach my hair until it reaches the yellow state, and then just tone it with the hair color I want?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      No problem Ela, good luck with your colour!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Camilla,

      As your natural colour underneath the brown dye is already blonde, I would recommend using hair dye remover first. This will take out some of the artificial colour from the dye. It won't take you all the way back to blonde, but it will make it far easier to lighten your hair afterwards.

      After that, bleach it to the yellow stage and tone it with an ash blonde until it reaches the shade you want, then rinse out the dye.

    • Talia 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew,

      After bleaching my hair for about 50 minutes, I ended up with a darker orange hair color. I put a light ash brown permanent color, mixed with a protein filler over it. By the time I applied it to my whole head, about 5 min later, it appeared to be turning my hair dark. So I rinsed it out right away. My hair is now mixture of dark and light auburn color. I want a lighter brown color.

      Its been about 8 days, would you recommend bleaching it again after dying it with that permanent color? I would do a bleach bath.

      Also, do you know why the light ash brown color started turning dark, almost black on my head? It was hard to determine when to rinse it out because I could not see the tone changes in my hair.

      THANKS

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Tahlia,

      It's most likely a combination of your hair being porous right after bleaching and the brand of dye you used. A lot of ash brown dyes do this. Some brands just make colours that are darker than they are meant to be; especially if you're using a box dye or a cheaper brand. This is one of the reasons I like to recommend using a dark ash blonde to tone your hair to light ash brown. It's a lighter colour and the toning is easier to control, so you end up with a more even result and can tell when it reaches your desired colour.

      If you're worried about the dye turning dark again next time, I'd recommend using Indola Profession 6.1, Schwarzkopf Igora 6-1, or Matrix SoColor 6A. Any of these brands not only have phenomenal colours, but will tone your hair properly without it turning out too dark.

      Before you can do this though, your hair needs to be a light orange colour. You said it was a darker orange after you'd bleached it--you'll need to lighten it just a little more to achieve a light brown result. You can definitely use a bleach bath, and as long as your hair is still in good condition, and you've given your hair time to rest--which you have--it's fine to bleach it again.

    • Talia 2 years ago

      Maffew, thanks so much for your help you are so kind. Yesterday I picked up a 6A Dark Ash Blonde Wella Brand. Im so glad this is what you recommend. I will probably go back and get the brand you suggested. I Now I can try this again with a little more confidence.

      Hope to read more of your articles in the future. You are such a great writer!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Thank you Talia, I'm happy to help. Wella is a good reliable brand too and you should get good results using it if you wanted to stick with that.

      If you have any more questions or need any more assistance, feel free to ask.

    • Mhairi Eaton profile image

      Mhairi Eaton 2 years ago from Aberdeen

      Hi Maffew, my poor daughter dyed her beautiful blonde (not natural) hair and its turned the awful orangy colour. I am totally confused by toner and number shades. I am in the UK and wondered what brand/shade you would recommend to fix it. She used Ferria Extreme Platinum Power. I think she would prefer to stay blonde, but i am no hairdresser so would appreciate any easy straightforward advice. She wont leave the house or go to school until I can fix it for her. Thanks much. Xx

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Mhairi,

      I'm a little confused as to how she managed to turn it orange using blonde dye. Was it originally a darker shade of blonde, possibly closer to light brown? Blonde hair usually has a yellow base so this yellow tone will be revealed when it is lightened.

      Regardless, the best and easiest option is to tone out the orange using the appropriate ash dye. To do this, first take a look at this undertones chart http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/wordpress/wp-con...

      If you can match your daughter's orange hair to the chart, you can work out what level it is. Once you know that, you need to use an ash dye that is one level lighter than that. For example, if her hair is a dark blonde, which is a level 6, it will be a golden orange colour, and you will need to tone it with a 7 ash. If her hair was a level 5 however, you would use a 6 ash.

      As far as shade numbers go, the level system is usually the same for most brands. This is the first number present and it tells you how dark the colour is. 1 is black, 3 is dark brown through to a 5 which is light brown. Blonde begins at 6 and goes all the way to a 10. The second number, or sometimes a letter, tells you the tone. This is often different between brands. Ash is often a 1 or an A, but you will have to check with the brand to make sure that is the case.

      If you're having trouble finding the right shade, I would be happy to recommend a dye. You'll just need to tell me approximately what level her hair currently is based on the chart linked to above.

    • Ella L.as 2 years ago

      Hello, what an awesome page you have built.. Really good information!

      I hope you can help me, so my natural hair color is dark brown. However, I have always had light brown with many highlights almost so my hair is ash blonde, which is mainly due to the highlights.

      Now my roots have grown, and Im currently in the US and my hair dressers are from Sweden which is my country of origin. So I wanted to take this task upon myself, I don't know why but I used a Box color that I purchased in Spain and it left my roots and some other areas orange! I bleached my roots with 20 vol developer and bleach powder but I was nervous so I freaked out and washed it out too early = left my hair too orange and I then added the Wella t14 which did not help much (cause my color didn't reach yellow blonde). And then I read somewhere ti try Wella ash color 8 + 20 developer (help kind of but not well). So I tried Wella ash color 7 (half) with T14 (half) + 20 developer = it did turn a little more ash/orange. (do you think It didn't help much cause I should of used 10 developer?)

      So Im in the stage of either just putting a wella 5 ash brown and just call it quits with an ombre, or not give up, and instead bleach my roots with bleach + 20 developer (since right now its orange/ashy). What do you think I should use after? I have these mixes in mind:

      1) T14 + 10 developer or 20?

      2) Then wait a week and add half box of Wella 7aa + half box of Wella 6a with 10 developer?

      Also I purchased the Wella 50 cooling violet toner something... How do I use that, where do I add it?

      I want to be somewhere around a dark ash blond to light ash brown, wouldn't even mind some green tints, I hate the orange/brassyness so having some green hints, I actually enjoy it, cause It fades aways so quickly and back to brassyness.

      I really hope you can help me and guide me. With the stages, when to use what developer and the wella 50 cooling violet and if you think my idea will work. Or any suggestion to get this orangeness out of me hair lol.

      Thank you thank you thank you!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Ella,

      The box dye resulted in orange roots because your hair is naturally dark brown. Dark brown hair can't be dyed blonde with hair dye because it's too dark. Box dye itself isn't up to the task either.

      The Wella Color Charm toners are designed for light yellow to pale yellow hair, so they also won't have an effect on hair that is dark and orange still. An 8 or 7 is also too light to be used on your hair and won't neutralise the dark orange. Mixing the 7 with the toner dilutes it down significantly as well. 10 vol developer was the appropriate strength for the job however, so you were fine there. Use 10 vol whenever you're depositing colour without lightening.

      I'd recommend bleaching your roots to a dark gold colour, then applying Wella Koleston 7/1 to neutralise the gold tone. This will give you a dark ash blonde result. Green ash is only meant to be used on red hair and won't tone properly if you use it on gold or orange. However, if you really do want that green ash effect, you can mix a little Wella Koleston 7/2 into the 7/1.

      Of course, you're welcome to continue using Wella Color Charm instead of Koleston, but it's nowhere near as good. If you plan to use Color Charm, tone with 7A. You won't need the violet additive as the 7A will be sufficient to reach an ash tone once your hair is golden.

    • Ella L. 2 years ago

      Thank you for your fast reply, you are the hair guru! Lol

      Everything you explained makes sense. I will listen to ur advice and return the Wella toners and go for Wella Koleston this time. I will do the mix you suggested, 7/1 + 7/2 medium blonde/matt.

      A few questions though...

      Im on a website about to purchase Wella Koleston, and I find the following colors available: 7/1 medium blonde/ash and 7/01 medium blonde/neutral ash.

      1) Which one should I purchase? And what is the difference between those two?

      2) With what volume of developer should I do the 7/1 + 7/2 mix?

      3) And can I add the 7/2 (since you said its meant to kill orange) on my lenghts. Since I have some tints of orange here and there in between my highlights.

      4) do you know if the Wella Koleston sells at physical stores excl. Hair saloons? (I live in NY)

      I will wait for your guidelines before I do anything to my hair...!

      Thank you so much for ur help!

      Ella

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Thank you, I'm glad it all made sense.

      1. The first is medium ash blonde, the second is medium natural ash. Natural is a neutral shade and it just means that it's not particularly warm or cool. You can tell what the shade is by the numbers. The first, 7, is the level (How dark the colour is). 7 is medium blonde. If there are two numbers before the slash, it tells you that it's an intense shade.

      The second number tells you the primary tone. If there are more numbers after that, they are the other tones in order of dominance. A 1 is grey ash in Koleston, which is primarily blue based. 2 is matte ash, which is green based, and a 0 is a natural. From this you can tell that the 7/01 is a natural tone with a hint of ash. I'd recommend you use the 7/1 to guarantee it will have enough ash tone to drab the warmth.

      2. The 7/1 will give you a nicer ash. I'm not much of a fan of that green ash look. If you want to use it though, that's up to you. Use 10 vol developer when preparing the dye, unless your hair fades easily, in which case using 20 vol will help really push the colour into the hair shaft and it will potentially last longer.

      If you do add 7/2, I'd recommend only using 1 part of that for every 6 parts of the 7/1 so it doesn't cause too much green tone in the final colour.

      3. I need to clarify here that 7/2 is green based and should be used on red. It will have a slight effect on orange, but 7/1 is a better toner for orange or gold hair. If you have red tone left in your hair after lightening, definitely add the 7/2, but if not, the 7/1 is fine by itself.

      4. I'm not too sure whether there'd be a store that would sell it to you without a trade card. Suppliers and wholesalers issue trade cards after verifying qualifications that allow you to purchase from them. America might be different though, I'm not sure how it works there. Online is a definite anywhere.

    • Ella L. 2 years ago

      Hello, so I started my process again... I bleached my hair with a 20 developer + bleach. The result is so uneven, it's a mix of orange/blonde. After the bleach I used the Wella t14 toner + 20 dev. It barely did anything. So I just put a conditioner on and slept with it.

      Do you think mixing the 7/1 + 7/2 Koleston colors will help me?

      Im afraid im not light enough... And im not necessarily aiming for a light ash blonde, Im more interested in an dark ash blonde/light ash brown. Since I was not able to return to the Wella colorcharm haircolors I still have them here.. And they are 7aa and 6aa colors. Don't you think a mix of both will kill the orange out? Plus I also have the Color Charm Liquid Permanent Hair Color 50 Cooling Violet, how can that come in handy in this situation? Suggestions on how to use it? (only if it will help of course).

      I would like to bleach my hair again to remove the orange parts, cause once I put the color and go darker there is no turning back again. So going lighter I can at least progressively darken it, even a schampoo bleach but I ran out of bleaching powder and in this conidition my hair is in I cannot leave my house, lol. So I guess my only option is to go darker than 7, like 6-5. what do you think? I don't know how to add a pic of my hair so you could see. Im something like this:

      http://www.pineneedlecollective.com/2012/01/how-to... (Like the first 2nd picture)

      http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JhuunE-3CI8/UZVWomxFtuI/... (the after pic)

      P.s my roots are yellow blond, its more the lengts that have that champagne orange color.

      Thanks for your help. Will wait for ur reply! I have a dinner tomorrow friday so I would really fix this prior to it.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Ella,

      Color charm toners are too weak to use on hair that isn't at least a level 8.

      If your hair is indeed the orange colour in that first link, that's good. That's about a dark blonde in terms of level, and it would look somewhere between dark blonde and light brown if you toned it. The 6AA would tone it nicely. The only issue is your roots, which are lighter. They will end up over-toned if you put the 6AA on them. I'd recommend you use the 6AA on your darker lengths and allow it to reach close to the toned result you want, then apply it to the roots last for only a short time to finish the colour, rinsing it all out as soon as the roots tone up to match the lengths.

    • Precious 2 years ago

      I have black hair and I put a burgundy color on my hair but it didn't change. I didn't know I had to bleach it first so the next day I put a 20 volume bleach on and it came out with orange and dark spots on my hair. What can I do to fix it?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Precious,

      The dark spots would be sections you've missed during the bleaching. You can apply bleach to those darker parts to lighten them to the rest. As for the orange, you can use the burgundy shade now, as long as the dye isn't lighter than the orange.

    • mdscoggins profile image

      Michelle Scoggins 2 years ago from Fresno, CA

      Great advice Maffew and you really have the ability to give details to those that do not know hair. I enjoy reading your tailored version of haircare. It's also great that you offer individual advice - keep up the great work :)

    • jomo11 2 years ago

      Hi after dying my hair blonde for years i went red. I have been red for about 12 weeks and have applied a colour remover to go back blonde. My hair now is a bright yellow orange colour. How do i go about toning down the colour either to a cooler blonde or more of a light brown?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi mdscoggins,

      Thank you for the kind words; I'm glad you like the articles.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi jomo11,

      You need to use an ash dye to neutralise the warm tones that are leftover. The colour it tones to is dependent on how dark your hair currently is. The dye you use is also dependent on this. You'll get the best results using an ash that is one level lighter than what your hair is at the moment.

    • Mandy NL 2 years ago

      Hello! I've dyed my hair dark brown/black voor years because of my grey hairs. But now I have decided that I wanted to go a light brown. My hairdresser told me that it needed to be bleached first so that's what we did. Of course I ended up with really orange/red hair.

      I read your advise so I tried to dye my hair a dark ash blonde color, but unfortunately it didn't change anything :(

      Do you have any other tips?

      I'm from holland so please excuse my bad English!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Mandy,

      Don't worry too much about your English, because it is excellent and you explained your problem perfectly.

      The reason your hair didn't change with the dark ash blonde is because it's too dark. Even if it is orange, you can't get your hair to light brown unless it's actually physically light enough. It needs to be bleached once more in order to do this. The only thing the dark ash blonde does is it adds cool tone back into your hair to neutralise the orange and take it to a neutral light brown, but it can't actually do this until your hair is light enough to be light brown.

      Take a quick look at this picture: http://www.slightcaseofinsanity.com/wp-content/upl...

      What you'll notice is that the hair is orange, but what I specifically want you to notice is how light it is. This is approximately how light hair needs to be to be dyed light brown. Applying a dark ash blonde to this hair would neutralise that orange tone and convert it into a colour like this: http://media.haircrazy.com/photos/forum/IMAG3946.j...

      You could also use a light ash brown dye instead if you wanted an ashier result, or you could use a light natural brown for a warmer result. The bleach is used to lighten your hair to light brown, and the dye used simply creates the specific tone of light brown that you want.

      If you don't understand any of this or need further help with any part of the process, feel free to ask and I will explain it more thoroughly. Good luck with your colour.

    • Mandy 2 years ago

      Thank you so much!

      I've bleached it three times in total and last time I've let it sit for 50 minutes. My natural hair is very curly but I guess the bleaching destroyed my curl pattern so I am really sad and don't want to bleach it again. So I'm gonna try to dye it again tomorrow I just don't really know what color to use. A friend of mine told me that if I use a color that's too light, it won't do anything.

      https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-androi...

      I have a balayage and I think the top part is a 4 and the ends are a 8 according to the picture in the link above, so I used a 8.12 semi permanent dye. It did tone out the ends a little but did nothing for my roots. Should I try to dye it again with a permanent dye? What color should I use if I want it all to be toned?

      thank you for the fast reply!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Mandy,

      That can definitely happen. From a chemistry perspective, your hair is made of a protein called keratin. Proteins are made of amino acids, and an amino acid called cysteine is primarily what gives your hair its curl. Cysteine forms bonds with other cysteine amino acids called disulphide bonds and this gives hair strength and causes it to form a curled texture.

      When you bleach hair, the keratin is fairly resistant to damage from the oxidation. The most sensitive part of the protein is cysteine though, and it is denatured by bleaching, weakening the hair and losing curl.

      What you can potentially try is a protein treatment as these treatments restore the protein structure. That may help your curl return. If nothing else, it will repair any damage and get your hair into top shape.

      As for toning, your hair has to be light enough to reach a certain shade. You can tone any level or any colour, but how dark it currently is dictates the result. Your bayalage could be easily toned with a medium ash blonde. The darker top hair, however, is not light enough to reach the same colour and would need to be dyed with a darker ash. This would preserve the bayalage, although it will now be the new lighter colour.

      If you want it all the same depth though, you will need to either dye the lengths darker or the top lighter to match. It can't be matched with toning alone.

    • kat 2 years ago

      Hi so I had peakaboo highlights through my hair I bleached the rest after a long period as it was boring me .. it turn bit orange near my roots I bleached again and my head has a mixture or white , pail yellow and still a bit of orange. I tried using igora 912-1 toner I really don't see a difference even on the yellower parts pls help .. should I bleach bath as I have hit it twice with bleach ?? Thx

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Kat,

      Igora's 9.5/1 is a pastel shade and doesn't contain much colour. It's good for a pale silver result. Hair that isn't already pale yellow won't be affected so it's not a good option for toning darker yellow hair.

      If you like the Igora brand, I'd recommend using Igora Royal 9.1 or Igora Royal 8.1 permanent dye, depending on how dark your hair still is. For a semi-permanent option, you could use Igora 8.1 mousse.

    • kat 2 years ago

      Thx for ur advice .. the hair supply salesman suggested the toner.. is there any other brands you recommend ( Im in Australia ) so theres no sallys here lol as I have seen the wella color charms seems to work but don't think I can get it unless i order online. . Thx again

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Kat, some of the best dye brands include Igora Royal, Wella Koleston, Matrix SoColor, Indola Profession, and Iso I.Color. It'd be hard to buy any of these in a store though. You'll usually only see them in hairdressing supply stores or wholesalers, most of which will require trade affiliation.

      Hairhouse Warehouse and Price Attack are two consumer stores that sell professional hair products as well as professional dye. Their range is somewhat limited though. Hairhouse Warehouse, in particular, only has a selection of relatively unknown poor quality brands of dye. Price Attack sells Fudge Headpaint and this is an option.

      Apart from that, supply stores and wholesalers like Norris sell a huge range of colour brands, but without qualification you will find it hard to buy from them. Online stores are always an option, as is Ebay and Amazon, depending on what colour line you would rather use.

      If you would prefer to go to a store, I'd recommend going to Price Attack and buying a tube of Fudge Headpaint 9.2 or 8.2 depending on how dark the yellow still is (You can look at my 'how to bleach hair' article for a chart that shows the levels and will help you see how dark your hair is). Price Attack used to sell Indola dye, but I think they may have discontinued it to stock other lines. If a store near you does have Indola and your yellow is light enough, definitely go for their 9.2, it gives a beautiful cool blonde result. On darker yellow hair, use Indola 9.11.

      Let me know if you have any more questions about these dyes or have trouble figuring out what level your yellow hair currently is. If you can show a picture of either your own hair or someone else's hair that looks similar, that would help. You should be able to tell by yourself looking at the chart and matching it though.

    • Street-Wear-Buff profile image

      Street-Wear-Buff 2 years ago

      Is it rude to send every other girl in the universe this article?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Street-wear-buff,

      Feel free to send away. I can't guarantee all will take it as a kind gesture though :p

    • OrangePixieDisaster 2 years ago

      Hi, I just got my long very dark brown hair cut into an adorable pixie cut. I loved it but then tried to lighten it to more of a chocolate brown. My stylist bleached it to this Lucille Ball strawberry blond / copper color and then but a brown color over that. Now my hair looks this weird brown / orange / red fake color that I hate! I'm embarrassed to leave the house. It looks brown in some lighting and totally red or orange in others. Is there anything I can do? This is horrible.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi orangepixie,

      You have to neutralise the excess warmth with an ash tone. The ash you use depends on how dark your hair currently is, as well as how much warmth you want to get rid of. To get rid of it all, apply a same level ash, ie, if your hair is light brown, apply a light ash brown. For a more subtle toning effect, use an ash that is one shade darker and this will take some of the warmth away without completely neutralising it.

    • OrangePixieDisaster 2 years ago

      So are you saying to dye it agaun using a permanent color such as medium ash brown (such as a Loreal Excellence box dye)? Or to apply some kind of a toner product? Can I do this immediately or do I need to wait a while. Thank you so much for your help. I was afraid I would just have to live with this for a few months!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      The reason it turned orange is that when you lighten hair, the base tone is revealed. This is a warm tone like red, orange, or gold. Even if you had ash brown hair for example, lightening it will reveal an orange colour because the warm base is the foundation of the colour.

      Your hairdresser simply didn't apply a dye that contained enough ash, hence it still looks too warm. This is a common problem with lightening hair. To get it to lighten enough is one step, but then it has to be correctly toned to correct the warmth and achieve the final colour.

      For the toning process, you can use a semi-permanent, demi-permanent, or completely permanent dye. The main difference is that the less permanent it is, the quicker it will fade and become warm again. A toner isn't really different to a dye, it's just a dye that you're using to change the balance of tone in your hair and you can use most dyes for this purpose. I always recommend using salon dye rather than box dye though, as it gives a better result and you have more control, but feel free to use whatever you're most comfortable with.

      Also, you have to be sure you're using the right level. A level is how dark the dye is and if you use an ash that is too light it won't do anything, whereas an ash that is too dark will make your hair too ashy. You can judge the level by using a chart like the one in my how to bleach hair article, or search Google for pictures of each level. If you're having trouble matching it, you could also link to a picture of your current colour or someone else's hair that is a similar colour and I'll tell you which ash should be used.

      You can use the dye immediately. If your hair is a bit dry from the lightening process, it's best to condition it thoroughly and give it a few days to regain moisture balance though. You definitely don't have to put up with the warmth though. It's the same scenario as blonde hair that looks yellow. The yellow is the base tone that has been revealed by the lightening and can be neutralised with violet. The only difference with brown hair is that it is orange or red that shows through. Absolutely any colour can be toned.

    • Sami 2 years ago

      Hi! Your page is incredibly informative and helpful with easy instructions on hair fixes. I enjoy reading the posts and hope you continue writing.

      I have a natural 4 that turns to a reddish brown towards the tips naturally.

      It's dyed a 5 copper reddish with tips that are 6 copper orange. I don't like it and wanted a medium golden brown or chocolate. I want warmth because of my complexion, but not copper.

      At the very top middle part of my crown I develop hot roots and a lift even when I use Tigi 5/37 Radiant no ammonia Gloss and a 5 developer.

      This just happened again. It didn't lifted anywhere else only the crown and I applied it last for this reason and used a blow dryer on the other parts.

      I don't want to use anything darker than a 5. Could you advise me on a good medium golden brown formula?

      I don't wish to bleach again as I lost all my length so even a toner to even out the color would be nice.

      Thanks!

    • Anna 2 years ago

      Hi! Great information! I'm bleaching my hair right now and I'm absolutely freaking out. I had black hair (dyed) and I wanted to go to an ash brown color. My hair is in the Orange stage and I really don't wanna bleach it any further than that. The color I bought is in ash blonde. Will that cover up the Orange and leave it a nice ash brown color? Appreciate any help.

    • ryan 2 years ago

      How do you put blonde highlights in dark brown hair avoiding any orange color?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Sami, I'm glad you like the articles and have found them useful,

      It's not unusual for some people to have sections of hair that tend to lighten really well, and others that are the opposite. As you're having a lot of trouble with unwanted lightening, I'd recommend using a semi-permanent colour to tone it. These colours generally last up to a few weeks, depending on how often you wash your hair, and how porous your hair is.

      The benefit of using a semi is that developer isn't used. Without the developer, lightening is impossible, so there's no chance of hot roots. This means it's a great option for toning your hair.

      You have two options here. The first is to tone it but keep it at the current level. This would involve using a 6 ash mixed with a little 5 gold and removing it once the orange begins to look a nice shade of gold. Alternatively, to reach a medium golden brown, I'd recommend using a 4 natural mixed with a little 4 gold. Wella Color Touch is a great semi-permanent line, as is ISO I.luminate. If you have a particular brand in line, I could give you the colour codes for that these dyes in that brand.

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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Silvia,

      Box dye just isn't very high quality. If you continue having trouble with colour retention, use a professional brand like Wella Koleston. Fill your hair with a dark red brown or dark natural brown first, then apply black mixed with 20 vol developer to finish the colour. This works very well because lightened hair fades less when it is filled with the proper base tone of your desired colour. Mixing the black colour with 20 vol helps to really force it deep into the hair and oxidise more of the colour so it doesn't break down.

      If this continues to be a problem (Which it shouldn't, but I always favour a good backup plan), you could use a semi-permanent black dye to keep it black. Using this every few washes is perfectly fine for your hair because it doesn't cause damage. It's actually conditioning and a lot of them contain added ingredients that are beneficial for your hair.

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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Ryan,

      It's not always avoidable. You need to use a good bleach powder, and your chances are highest if your hair hasn't been dyed as it will lighten better. Even if you do end up with highlights that are too orange though, you can always tone them with an ash toned semi-permanent dye. The semi-permanent used is much lighter than your dark brown colour so it only affects the highlights. This neutralises the orange tone.

    • aly 2 years ago

      I really need help and advice please. I had dark Asian hair I got beautiful white golden blonde highlights everywhere almost a full head of it, my hair was gorgeous because it matched my caramel complexion. Then 3 weeks later I wanted more highlights, so I decided hey why not go all blonde... so my mom who is a hairdresser gave me a shampoo cocktail ? something with bleach and shampoo to lighten alll my hair... thing is it was in for long and my mom said not to keep it in any longer and it all turned orange... Then she tried to colour it with 2 different blonde shades and it turned light orange. now I'm so upset I'm meeting my boyfriends whole family and going on vacation with him next week and my hairs no longer blonde and beautiful, rather orange and orange everywhere even my previous highlights.. so I was wondering what can I do ??

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Aly,

      The shampoo and bleach concoction your mum gave you is called a bleach wash or bleach bath. It's a gentle bleach because the shampoo dilutes it down. If you want to know more about it, I have an article describing how to make and use one: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-do-a-bleach-wash...

      Now, the reason it has caused your hair to turn orange is because the darker hair that wasn't highlighted was lightened, but not enough to get past the orange stage. When you lighten dark hair, it gradually turns from black or brown to red, then orange, then eventually to yellow. Yellow can be toned to blonde.

      The fact that it is heavily highlighted actually really complicates the correction. You see, in order to tone the darker orange hair, you would have to use an ash brown dye, but this is far too strong to be used on your highlighted hair. The darker hair would tone nicely, but the lighter hair would end up blue-grey. If you use a lighter ash blonde dye, that will tone the highlighted hair but the darker hair will stay orange because the dye isn't strong enough to tone it.

      To fix it, I'd recommend foiling in a dark beige blonde colour, as well as a light natural brown colour. The hair you don't foil needs to be toned with an ash blonde dye. What is happening here is that you're toning all of the lighter hair whilst adding in dark ash and natural lowlights to make it look ashier overall and eliminate the orange appearance. The idea is that by adding enough cool lowlights into your hair, the combination of different colours blend to make it look beige to golden overall, instead of orange.

      Other than that, you could darken the lighter blonde using a darker natural gold tone, or you could darken it all overall to match the darkest hair, which would take you to a light brown to medium brown colour and eliminate all the different lighter and darker sections.

      If you need help choosing the exact dye shades to use, a picture of what your hair looks like would be very helpful and I could give more exact shades to use. Also, if you have a dye brand in mind, I can tell you which shades to use from that brand. I would recommend Matrix, Igora, or Wella for the best results. Is your mum able to apply the foils for you?

    • Aly 2 years ago

      thank you so much for replying, I have a bit of a problem because yesterday my mom tried adding ash blonde/brown to my hair all over, and my hair went from light orange to orange and my highlights disappeared going from golden blonde to ash brown... today my mom decided to just colour it all to get rid of the orange, by toning it darker and it turned a shade darker but still significantly orange. If I were to re bleach it this week, do you suggest that would be a bad idea? because I was truly In love with the golden blonde on me and now it's all orange in attempts to making it blonde :(

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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      If you bleach it again, it will just strip out the toner and take it back to being more orange again. You would have to go even darker to fully get rid of the orange at this point.

    • nuphilagal 2 years ago

      Great article

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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Thank you, glad you liked the article.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew, and thank you for taking the time to help us non educated people... I sure hope you can help me as well. I have been doing a lot of reading as well as watching video's on you tube, trying to figure out my game plan. I'm very happy that I stumbled onto your page. Here is my quest, my hair originally was a level 4-5 neutral and I would get natural golden highlights in the summer, then I started dying it in my early thirty's, now I'm 50 and I have between 40-45% gray on top and my hair grows extremely fast. I want to lighten it and get used to that color so I can start the transition process. Right now I have a lot of red tones due to a stylist dying my hair and then I just never corrected it. My son, did put some highlights in my hair a couple of years ago with the paul mitchel bleach and they came out caramel colored, but he moved to Cal. so on my own now, lol. Here is my questions, since I have been researching I haven't colored my hair so I have about 1 1/2 inch regrowth, so when I lighten my hair do I lighten the regrowth as well? 2- after I get the light ash brown color what number or color do I use for my regrowth? I eventually want to add highlights too, so I won't have to color so soon. Do you have any suggestions as what I can do with my color to start the transition process? right now whenever I get regrowth it sticks out like a sore thumb because it looks very ashy against a warm color because of the gray. also my regrowth will be longer when I do color because I want to take my time bleaching as my hair is very long and I want to keep the integrity as much as possible. oh 1 other thing I need to tell you just in case it matters, I do use pravana perfection smoothout solution, so would it be good to use after I bleach because it pushes keratin into the hair shaft? Sorry so long, just trying to be careful... oh, I use goldwell dye, noticed you didn't mention that in your choices so what do you think about that brand? Thanks so much for your time! Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Sarah,

      This is a really interesting question because grey hair poses unique challenges when it is dyed. Because your regrowth is almost half grey hair, it causes it to look cooler and lighter, almost as if you had ash highlights. Now what happens when you dye it is that the darker hair will react as intended, but the ash will really grab onto any tone you add. If you used an ash brown dye on it for example, it could turn green or blue.

      As for the rest of your hair, if you still have the highlights your son added, this could pose the same problem because they're lighter than the rest of your lengths. What happens when you bleach it is that all of your hair will lighten. When you go to tone it with a light ash brown, the lengths will tone nicely, but the lighter highlights will really grab onto the ash tone and may end up too ashy as the dye is too strong for them.

      You could deal with this in a few different ways. One method would be to foil the highlights with conditioner to separate them from the rest of your hair, then apply bleach to the rest of the lengths and lighten them up to become even with the highlights before you proceed any further. Otherwise if you would prefer to keep the highlights, I'd recommend foiling them with a lighter ash dye when you tone your hair so that they tone properly.

      On to your main question, if the darker hair in your regrowth is darker than your lengths and desired colour, it is best to lighten your regrowth as well because you need to get this hair lighter to blend in and look even. You won't need to bleach this hair as much because of the grey and the fact that it is both virgin hair and close to the scalp where your head is warmest, so if you do it all at once, apply to the roots later into the process after the lengths have already started lightening to ensure the colour turns out even.

      When you tone it all, you will need to use a natural shade rather than ash to avoid problems with the grey hair. The natural will still tone the darker hair to a cooler shade, but it has the benefit of darkening up the grey to match without causing it to turn out too ashy. The warmer natural hair and the cooler grey hair should tone up and combine to create a fairly neutral shade with this method.

      The actual levels of the shades you use also need to be matched to how light your hair is. For example, if you lighten it to the point where it has reached dark blonde, you need to use a dark ash blonde and a dark natural blonde rather than light brown.

      Usually you could tell what level it has reached from the colour change. Hair starts to become golden-orange as it transitions from brown to blonde, and then becomes increasingly lighter shades of gold and then yellow that tell you how light it is. I don't believe you will be able to use this technique with your hair though as it's been dyed with colours that contain red tone, and this can persist into blonde hair.

      It may help to match your hair to pictures of each level as you lighten it, or you could link to a picture and I'll be able to tell you what level you need to use. Otherwise, if still in doubt, a strand test is your best friend. You can apply a small amount of dye to a few strands of hair and see how they react. You can actually even cut out a tiny amount of hair and do it that way if you would prefer. If it quickly becomes ashy, the dye is too strong and you need a lighter colour. If it doesn't seem to change after 15 minutes, you need a darker shade.

      Also, you can definitely use the Pravana product after bleaching. Keratin treatments like this smooth the hair, but they also strengthen it and repair damage so it's a good product to use. Repair products like Redken Cat treatment are even better if you have structural damage you need to repair, but using the Pravana Smoothout shouldn't have any negative effects on your colour. Bleaching may strip it out of the hair though, so all the more reason to use it afterwards.

      Goldwell is a good brand. One of the best in the world actually. Unfortunately I've never used it myself, although it's on my list of brands to eventually try. I prefer to only recommend brands I actually have experience with and know will work for the required task as well as give a good colour. If you're most familiar with Goldwell dye and you like their colours, it'd be best to use that for your own colour.

      Leave another comment if you need me to elaborate on any of this or if you haven't understood any of it. If you run into any problems while dyeing it, I'd also be glad to help. It seems like you've accrued a good amount of knowledge and experience though and you shouldn't encounter too many issues.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew, and thank you for your fast response. I don't have the highlights anymore, sorry I should have clarified that. I just bought a can of goldwell topchic blue ash, neutralights. Its a highlift control series for dark hair. Do you think it would benefit the lightening process if I dyed my hair just a plain brown with this mix in it to control the red and get it out before I start the transitioning? I know I would need some time to nourish my hair again. I found a color that I really like, here is a link - http://stylenoted.com/hair-color-formulation-and-i... its the bottom left one. It does have both warmth and cool tones in it. Here is the recipe - Goldwell Topchic 2 parts 7SB + 1 Part 7B with 20 Volume, I also thought about adding a little 6N to add a little more dark shade to it. This is something I have been contemplating for 2 years now, so finding a color that I like wasn't easy at all, lol. goldwell is supposed to be known for changing dark hair to light in 1 step. I know the horror stories out there with other brands but there are 2 asian girls, ladies on you tube that uses goldwell to go light. 1 uses goldwell topchic 9NA with only 30 volume to go light ash brown and she does her regrowth on the video, and she encouraged another asian girl to use it but she had dye on her hair so she bleached the color off until dark orange and then used 6A with 30 volume and got a little darker ash brown and now just uses the goldwell 6A for regrowth. sounds unbelievable I know but they do it right in front of the camera. not sure if I would be brave enough to try it, but might be something you would want to check out. Thank you so much for taking time to help me with my transitioning, I asked 2 different stylist on you tube but never got any response, so please know that I sure appreciate your time! Sarah

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew! I'm so happy I found your page! I just did a bleach bath on my colored ( 7wr ion demi perm hair color that that I had faded a couple weeks ago with "color oops" color remover) and my hair is now light/medium orange with some yellow roots and a couple of places on my roots where it didn't change and is my natural level 8 warm(in some spots)/ash blonde. My goal is to get back to my natural. I have spent some time reading your page and I confused on whether I can use a 9a (base violet-blue) or 8a (base blue) color to tone it or if I HAVE to use an ash brown. That will definitely make my hair darker and I really don't want to go darker than I am now. I want to stay at a level 8 or higher. I am looking at the wella color charm line and I don't see any ash brown that is higher than a level 7. PLEASE help! Thanks so much!

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Maffew, I decided to go to salon to have them fix the Orange hair. I let them know I wanted them to use an ash color (after reading everything you said I felt confident that they could fix it). They used a Demi permanent all over (some matrix mocha color wayyyyy too dark) that literally turned my hair almost black. Then they went in after and put hi lights on top! It's a mess and the warmth from the Orange is still on top but now I have like black on bottom grayish on the front length and some horrible weaved in caramel and yellow colored hi lights. My hair is majorly over processed and a frizzy mess. I will most likely have to go get it chopped off. I left in tears! I want to get rid of this color but You said a color remover won't remove Demi permanent. Right? Please help me! I need to go to a knowledgeable salon and have them fix this with your advice. Thank you.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi again Sarah,

      I'm sorry for the late reply as I haven't had much free time. Regular dye with 30 vol can definitely take dark brown or black hair to light brown, but this isn't necessarily possible for all people. Igora Royal and Matrix SoColor are also very good for lightening and I've personally seen their high lift dyes lighten close to 6 levels. The problem with dye though is that it can't be used to lighten hair that is already dyed. You may be able to use it to lighten your regrowth as it grows in once you've reached your new colour though.

      As for the colour formula you want to try, it's good to have a colour to aim for. Keep in mind that the result when you dye hair is actually the colour added by the dye + your current colour, so using that formula won't necessarily produce the same result. I'd recommend getting it light enough for the colour you want first, then working with what you have at that point. It's best to choose dye shades after your hair is lightened and you can see what tones you need to eliminate or emphasise.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Tripleg,

      I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to reply until now.

      Addressing your first question, you would only use the ash brown if you wanted to tone darker orange hair back to a more natural brown rather than proceed further with lightening. My article gives three options and this option is aimed at people who are about a level 5 at this point and don't want to finish the blonde process.

      As for what ash you use, you need to use a blue based ash to properly neutralise orange tones. The level of the dye used is based on how light your hair is. If your hair is a level 8 for example, you would use an ash that is a level 8 for an ash result, or a level 9 for a neutral result.

      Onto your most recent comment, demi-permanent dyes are meant to be selected at 2 shades lighter than the desired colour or else they can turn out a lot darker than intended. The salon most likely chose a darker shade to try to cover the orange rather than neutralise it, and this lead to the dark result.

      Generally, yes, dye remover won't remove a demi-permanent dye. This depends on what kind of demi it is though. Some dyes like Fudge Headpaint are a dual-use permanent dye where a lower volume of peroxide converts it into a demi. If it was that kind of dye, the remover would work. Other demis are somewhat a mix of oxidative dye and direct dye. In this case, it may be partially removed. Acid based demi-permanents won't be removed at all though.

      If you don't know what kind of demi-permanent dye was used, you could always try using dye remover. Whatever it does remove will help lighten it up, and if you use a clarifying shampoo when you wash your hair, that will help fade it out quicker. In time, most of the dye will wash out as a demi is meant to.

      As for the damage, you don't have to get it chopped off and I hope you don't go down that route just yet. Before you lose your hair and end up more upset, I'd recommend using a protein treatment like Redken Cat or Joico K-Pak Reconstructor. I've seen these kinds of products work miracles and they can revive even the most damaged hair most of the time. Specifically, the Redken Cat treatment is phenomenal. If you can get that product, use it after every shampoo first, and slowly cut back to once a week as your hair becomes stronger. Considering that the highlights they applied are the source of the damage and highlights aren't all of the hair, you should still have a good amount of healthy hair and the protein treatment should be able to restore the condition of the damaged hair.

      Fixing the colour however, that will be more difficult. If you're able to wait a week or two after using dye remover, washing your hair, and trying the repair treatments, it will be easier to correct it as it will have faded out more. I'd recommend you wait until then before you use any more dye, and let me know what it looks like at that stage.

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Maffew, thank you so much for getting back to me! You rock!

      The color they used was "matrix color sync demi permanent in mocha." I remember hearing she was going to mix two colors to make a level 7 but I'm not sure which one she mixed. My orange was about a level 7 so that makes sense why it came out so dark. And she kept saying "this has violet in it, I don't know why it didn't take the orange warmth out." I knew at that point she had no business ever touching my hair :(

      Do you think you could find out if that color will be able to be removed with a color remover? As far as products go I do use the pureology line. I have their moisture line and their strength cure line. Do you know anything about those brands? Do you think I need to still go out and buy the cat? I will if this is what you advise. Also, I'm really nervous about what the color will fade to. Do you think it will fade to a lighter brown (if I use clarifying shampoo) or go back to the orange (if I use the remover)? Again thank you sooo much for taking the time to chat with me about this!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Toning at level 7 would have been part of the problem. Matrix recommends using a shade 1 - 2 levels lighter than the desired colour when using their demi-permanent dyes for toning. This is actually standard procedure for most demi-permanent dyes because they're deposit only and will turn out darker than the same shade of permanent dye.

      You may be able to partially remove it as Color Sync is mixed with developer, meaning it is partially oxidative. I can't give you any guarantee of how much it will take out though. Depending on how much it does remove, it will gradually go from the dark ash it is now to a cool brown, to more of a warm dark blonde, and then back to orange as colour fades out. It will end up somewhere along this continuum after using the dye remover and washing it over the next few weeks.

      Turning back to orange would be good though, as you can tone it properly at that stage. If it fades out to a light enough orange, you could potentially even reach a nice blonde colour from there.

      As for the Pureology products, the strength cure should repair any damage. If it doesn't work, you might want to try the Cat treatment at that point, but there's no need to rush out and buy it until then.

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      I washed it with redken clarifying shampoo today but if you think it may work I could get a color remover. Which do you recommend. I used "color oops" about a month ago (on the red demi I was trying to fade out) and it worked a little but not much. That is why I used the bleach bath/cap. I'm very frustrated because I had just faded out a color I didn't want any longer and now I am back at it again

      :(

      You are giving me hope though, so thank you for that! I was looking at the matrix color chart for the "mocha" shades and they are not listed as an ash or warm nor neutral. Just "mocha." Im not sure there really is any ash in my hair at all actually, as I had mentioned before there is still so much warmth on top of my head. She called it a "color correction" but did not even take the time to put color on my roots last or even a different shade. She just slapped on one color all over telling me it would be even when I had about 3 different shades on my head (Orange, yellow, and natural 8 ash blonde). And it took her an 1.5 just to do that. Sorry I'm going on about it so. Thank you again for all of your help. I will continue to keep you updated if that is alright.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 2 years ago

      Hi Mathew and thanks for your reply. I intend on lightening it before I proceed. I did order the Redken Cat and it should be here today or tomorrow and then I will begin. I only use the pravana smoothout treatment once or twice a year to make my hair straight. I started noticing breakage in my hair when I started using the flat iron daily, so I got the pravana and after I use that I only have to blow dry and it made a big difference in the health of my hair, so no more flat irons. Just letting you know that in case you ever have a client who has breakage from using to many hot tools. I do have 1 more question if you don't mind. When I get my hair to the color I desire and I get regrowth, should I use 1 level higher in the same color with 20 vol, or should I use the same level with 30 vol? would using 30 vol on my scalp give me hot roots? I really don't wanna bleach every time I do regrowth. Thanks so much for your time, Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Tripleg,

      Did the clarifying shampoo take any colour out? It may take a few washes before you notice fading, but a demi is meant to wash out over time. Either way, if you can afford hair dye remover, it's definitely a good idea. Juuce Eliminate is a good dye remover if you're able to get it.

      The mocha is a pinkish sort of tone. It's mainly violet based, but there seems to be a little red in there. Definitely not the best choice for use on orange hair though. A colour correction would have entailed neutralising the unwanted tones with the right colour to cancel each of them out, as well as darkening the roots slightly to match and even out the entire colour.

      Definitely keep me updated. I'll continue to help you along the way.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Sarah,

      The Redken Cat treatment is great and will keep your hair in good condition. That's also good that the Pravana Smoothout works so well for you.

      Onto your question, it just depends how well your hair lightens and what colour you're using. The developer volume is what is going to give you lightening and a higher volume lifts more, but it's also true that a lighter dye will usually contain more ammonia, which can also drive the lightening process.

      I'd recommend using the same level so that the colour matches, unless your hair is porous and tends to turn out darker than expected. Use a slightly lighter dye in this case, but still use 20 vol. If it doesn't lighten enough however, you can use 30 vol instead to give it more lift. You won't get hot roots as long as the dye is dark enough to match your lengths and you use the weakest developer that works.

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew. No the clarifying shampoo didn't really do anything. My hair is just so dark in the back (almost black) I'm thinking it won't budge without the remover because my hair was so porous after the bleach cap. I am trying to find a company who will ship the juuce remover to US. Do you know of any? Talk to you soon

    • Jezebella42 profile image

      Heidi Burr 2 years ago from Fairbanks, Alaska

      I once tried to bleach my dark brown hair. I wasn't allowed to do it in the house so I did it in the garage, in Alaska. Even a heated garage in Alaska is cold. My roots were bright blonde, but the rest was a particularly delightful shade of bright orange. Some of my hair was even gummy. I had long brown hair when I started and I ended up with a black bob. I really liked it though so thank goodness my sister can fix the things I screw up.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Tripleg,

      It looks like it's hard to get in the US. I've been using it for a few years, but I actually never knew it was an Australian brand. I did find one company that has international shipping, but I'm not convinced it would be worth going to the expense and time just to get it.

      Vanish Color Corrector is available in the US and a lot easier to get though; you can even find it on Amazon with free shipping. The Vanish is quite a good dye remover too and this may be better for you in terms of price and how long it takes to arrive.

      Hopefully the dye remover will take out a good amount of your colour. As I've said, it's designed for permanent dye because it reverses the oxidation process that takes place. The Matrix demi used on your hair is at least partially oxidative as developer is used, but you may end up having to use a bleach bath again to get it light enough to reach a nice colour that you actually like. The fact that your hair is porous could either help or hinder this; it's so hard to tell how porous hair is going to react.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Jezebella,

      This is the kind of story that a lot of people have, where they've set out to do something with their hair and have ended up not getting the results they actually want and may have even ended up making a big mistake. That is the core reason why I write about hair colouring on here. It's a chance to help others succeed with their colour or help them fix mistakes and learn from it all. I find that more rewarding than anything else.

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Thanks for the tip Maffew. Maybe I should just try to fade it with the clarifying shanpoo then (since we aren't sure what it will do since my hair is so porous)? The color I have now is definitely not what I want, but it's not so bad that I don't mind waiting a couple weeks for my hair to be in better shape to do another bleach bath etc. Any plans to come to the states soon? I would love to have you fix my hair haha Happy new year!

    • Rui Carreira profile image

      Rui Carreira 2 years ago from Torres Novas

      If only I had read this 6 months ago.... I wanted blonde and ended up orange - and it wasn't a natural one either.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Tripleg,

      That's a good idea for now. It's always best to allow the colour to fade for a period of time before you go to more drastic measures to remove it. Washing your hair doesn't damage it, so the more colour you can remove by washing alone, the healthier your hair will be in the end. If you can put up with what it looks like at the moment and as it fades, it's worth it to keep it healthier and proceed more slowly.

      I'm afraid I don't have plans to travel anywhere too far away in the near future, but I'd definitely love to visit England and the US at some stage. There's so many different cultures to explore overseas. I might go on a working holiday at some point and I think that would be an amazing experience.

      Happy new year to you too, and keep me updated on the colour. I'm always available to offer advice on any problems or questions that may arise.

    • pumpkincat210 profile image

      Courtney Rhodes 2 years ago from Houston, Texas U.S.A.

      I've never had a problem coloring my own hair until the last time I wanted to lighten it. I bought Ion brand developer(30) and toner(beige blonde don't remember exactly). I left it on my hair 30 minutes and checked it, no change. I applied some heat and after an hour I freaked out and rinsed it out. My hair was only slightly lighter and orange-y. My natural color is a very light brown or dark blonde depending on the amount of sun it's gotten. My hair didn't show any damage other than the strange color but I decided to just wait and go darker. I wonder now if I got a bad batch of Ion, it was brand new but it was weak.. I usually go with clairol and get great and consistent results. I hope my hair lightens easier next time, but just in case I bookmarked this page. thanks!

    • Christine 2 years ago

      This blog is amazing! I am a natural level 4 brunette with copper undertones and have 25% gray coverage on crown/temples. I used to get my base lightened to level 5 (beige ash) with blond highlights. However, we transferred to a different state and regardless of the color brand, 5 and/or 6 A/AA turns my roots orange. I have been to several color specialists, only to have them get the color right the first two visits and upon the 3rd visit, the base/roots turn orange. After several hair disasters with them overbleaching/toning to correct, I had to cut off 7 inches due to damage. Finally found a HD who is awesome, however, on the third time she did my roots with 5AA, they turned brassy. Why would the 3rd visit matter when my roots were virgin hair each time? One HD blamed me, convinced me to get thyroid tests (happy to report all is fine)! I am baffled and need guidance. Thank you in advance for any advice you are willing to gift. Love your attitude and willingness to share your passion!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Pumpkincat,

      Developer needs to be mixed with permanent dye or bleach to work properly. It won't effectively lighten hair by itself so if you didn't mix it with anything, that's why there was a negligible change.

      As for the Ion brand, I wouldn't really recommend it. It's cheap, but you get what you pay for in that regard.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Christine,

      That's a strange conundrum. It's also weird that the hairdresser would suggest you have a thyroid condition because of the results. Whilst an issue with thyroid hormone levels can impact the rate that your hair grows, as well as how strong it is, I doubt it would have any bearing on how resistant it is to lightening.

      As for what's happening, it's probably mostly a coincidence that it doesn't tone properly on the third visit. There is definitely something happening to affect the lightening however, and whatever it is seems to be inconsistent. Temperature could be responsible for something like this. If the weather was a lot cooler at the time of dyeing, this slows down the dye reaction and it won't lighten as well. If you were using any form of toner that may have touched your roots, this can also affect the lightening, even if it is a semi-permanent or temporary toner.

      Lightening with hair dye has two effects. The dye tones your hair by depositing colour, and it also lightens natural colour. If the lightening doesn't work as well as it should for whatever reason, it leads to warmth. This is because less lightening means there is significantly more warm pigment left over and the cool tone deposited isn't enough to neutralise it.

      I'd recommend using a high quality brand in 5A with 30 vol developer and see how that works on your roots. If the issue continues, it may be better to switch to bleach for a more consistent lift and then tone afterwards separately.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 2 years ago

      Hi Mathew and thank you for answering all my previous questions. I have all my materials needed to finish the job now. I went with the goldwell silk lift with no ammonia bleach with the intralipid and bought the intensive conditioning serum you add to condition the hair as you are bleaching it, hoping I can keep as much integrity as possible. I'm having high anxiety every time I think about doing it, as I have never bleached my hair in my life or used it on anyone else. I don't know the length of my hair but I can sit on my hair to give you an idea how long it is. Would you be so kind to tell me step by step how to do this? I know I need to start at the crown after sectioning of course, but do I go all the way to the ends? As of this time I have about 2inches regrowth, and I know I should leave 1/2 inch to do last, so after I start at the crown and go down to the ends, should I then go back up and do the regrowth leaving 1/2 inch and then go back and finish the roots last? Please forgive me if I sound like I'm illiterate, but I seriously am scared to death and just want so much for this to turn out great.... :-) Also should I wait a few days after I bleach and use the redken cat since I will be using permanent dye with 20 vol? I would appreciate all the instructions you can give me! Please respond when you have plenty of time, don't rush. I always come and read your literature, I find it very interesting, the more you help other people the more I'm learning as well. I'm soaking in your knowledge, lol. Thanks again Mathew James, you are a great teacher, sincerely, Sarah

    • pumpkincat210 profile image

      Courtney Rhodes 2 years ago from Houston, Texas U.S.A.

      thanks for responding. yes i mixed the developer with color. i will never use ion again!

    • DaphneDL profile image

      Daphne D. Lewis 2 years ago from Saint Albans, West Virginia

      So much good information here. I needed this hub several years ago when after having had my hair dyed and highlighted for years, I decided to go back to one color and dye it myself. The result was a very brilliant orange. Since it was near Halloween, I kept telling everyone that I had chosen this color to celebrate the season. No one believed me.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Sarah,

      It depends a lot on the porosity of your hair and whether the ends have faded to a lighter colour or have been dyed several times in the past. If your hair has been dyed a few times, chances are that your ends are weaker and will also lighten more rapidly than the rest of your hair. Applying to the mid-lengths first and then to roots, and finally to ends later in the application will deal with this problem and give a more even result without resulting in too much damage.

      How much lighter have you decided to go all over? And how many levels difference is there between your regrowth and lengths? If it's a big difference, it'd actually be better to apply to the longer regrowth first, then roots, lengths, and ends last. If it's going to be a lot of trouble estimating this and you'd rather take the guess work out, you could always just deal with the regrowth first, get that to the same level as your lengths, and then worry about taking it all lighter.

      With the Redken Cat, you can use that straight after bleaching. You would rinse thoroughly, shampoo, then apply the Redken Cat. After that is rinsed out, follow that up with a good conditioner or conditioning rinse and let your hair rest. You can technically use the dye right after bleaching if you wanted to, but your hair will be less porous and in better condition if you let it rest for up to a week before this. If you don't want to deal with warmth from the bleach, feel free to dye it, but if you can put up with having a strange colour for a few days before dyeing, your hair will be in a better condition and you'll get a better result from the dye.

      In any case, glad to see you're still working on the colour, and I'm glad you're enjoying my articles and learning a lot.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Pumpkincat,

      Any chance you were trying to lighten coloured hair? Previously dyed hair doesn't tend to lighten with more dye because the dye isn't able to lighten artificial colour. This could explain what happened if this was the case, because you'll often notice a subtle lift but it barely works.

      Apart from that, it would be the developer itself if everything else was right. Some of the cheaper brands have shocking developer. It's not uncommon for cheap developer to be poorly measured, separate readily, or form lumps. It's all just peroxide solution in the end, but the better brands definitely take more care in their consistency and accuracy.

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Maffew, so I couldn't stand the dark hair anymore and decided to add somemore hi lights. These did pull very warm and are almost that orange shade it was when I used the bleach bath. What should I tone them with? Thanks Maffew!

    • Hannah 2 years ago

      A few years ago I was light blonde (highlighted multiple times from chestnut brown natural colour) eventually I dyed it back to brown but the colour came out dark, especially in the mid section (I also had dip dyed my hair last year which obviously contributed to the patchy "light roots - dark middle - light ends" look it gave me.

      Anyhow, it has been a while and hair back in good condition so I decided to lighten it up and try and even up. I used bleach first and lightened it small bit to an orangey colour and then went over the top with medium ash blonde. I actually really like the colour (even though it's not ash blonde) so happy to live with it, but I'm just wondering if I continue to use the same medium ash blonde colour every 4 weeks or so - will it eventually go to that medium ash blonde colour or at least a little closer to it rather than the more auburn colour it is now? Or will I have to bleach again?

      Thanks so much :-)

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Tripleg,

      Do you know what level the highlights are? An ash dye one level lighter would tone them nicely.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Hannah,

      Your hair colour is defined by two main qualities: level and tone. Level is how dark it is, whilst tone is what colour it is. Think of it as tone being the colour that is in your hair, and level is how much of this colour is present.

      When you tone your hair, like you have done with the ash dye, what happens is that cool tone is being added into the hair and this combined with the warm tone neutralises out because of the way light interacts with colour. It can't make your hair lighter though.

      In order to go lighter, you actually have to lighten your hair. It's very unlikely that continued use of the ash blonde dye would achieve this as dye generally can't lighten hair that has already been dyed. You will notice the warmth continues to cool down though. If you want to go lighter, you'll need to actually bleach it again.

      Virgin hair is easy to lighten to blonde because it will turn gold and then a progressively lighter yellow at the blonde stage, but this doesn't always happen with dyed hair. Your hair could continue to look very red even as it lightens. You can still reach blonde but you need to judge the lightening by how light it looks, rather than what colour it is, and once it is lightened enough, tone it to neutralise this warmth and produce a nice looking blonde.

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Hi Maffew I would guess a level 8 on top with some 7 in the back. Should I use an ash with green or blue tones? Could you recommend a brand (and level of developer I should use) and I will go ahead and order it.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      In that case, 9A on the level 8 and 8A on the level 7. If the hair is definitely orange, use blue based ash and steer clear of green. The green based ash dyes are best used only on very red hair and will give a strange greenish gold colour if used on hair that isn't red.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 2 years ago

      Hi Mathew, and thanks again for helping me. My natural hair is a level 4, my dyed hair is a warm level 4. In your topic (how to choose a brown hair color)? the hair color the girl has is almost identical to mine. It has the warm dark brown with lighter color in it and that is because of the 40% gray I have. My ends are not lighter, they are exactly the same color as my mid length hair is. If you hold my ends up to light hardly any split ends, I think this is because of all the protein products I use on my hair, but I also know that long hair is old hair... so maybe I should pick a strand of hair and bleach it all the way down and see if it lightens the same and go from there? I think what is scaring me the most is my husband will be putting the bleach on the back of my hair and he's not to fast when it comes to hair. Also, I was under the impression that virgin hair will lighten quicker than colored hair? Please advise.... Oh, I'm going to a level 7, the dye I have is a level 7. Thanks again, Sarah

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 2 years ago

      I forgot to mention, that all of my hair has been colored, I've been dying my hair for about 15 years mostly regrowth, I think the last time I pulled the color down through my ends was about a year and half ago. I use pravana kera glaze, its protein and locks in color and is uva & uvb protection and then I use pravana keratin fusion restructurizing serum every 6 months or so on top of the pravana smooth out treament I use once a year, and thats keratin treatment and I use the professional shampoos, Redken smooth lock, pravana keratin fusion, pravana smoothing shampoo, all sulfate and salt free. Just in case any of this matters, lol. Ok I think that was all, so I will wait for your reply. Thanks again, Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Sarah,

      You could definitely try with a small section first if you want to. As for the back, you may want to either use a stronger bleach preparation (Higher volume of developer), or wash it out later than the front sections. It will just depend on how much slower the application is there.

      Coloured hair lightens a lot slower than virgin hair because the artificial colour is more resistant to lightening. Hair further from the scalp also lightens slower because it's less warm. This needs to be taken into account when applying to regrowth.

      None of the products you use should impact the lightening, but bleach can break down a keratin treatment. I'd recommend applying the Smooth Out treatment after you're completely done dyeing your hair as you'll probably need a reapplication at this point to keep it strong and straight.

      I think you should be all ready now, but if there's anything else, let me know.

    • tripleg7 2 years ago

      Maffew, should I just use a 10 volume developer since I am just depositing color into the hi lites? And how long do you think I should let it develop? Which brand do you think would be best for this with a blue base?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      Hi Tripleg,

      Yes, you use 10 vol with any permanent dye when no lift is required or wanted.

      I'd recommend trying Igora Expert Mousse first though, as it's a semi-permanent dye. This means it will tone your hair without damage and if the colour was to turn out too ashy, it will wash out. It's also easy to use because you just apply to your hair after shampooing and towel-drying it.

      Igora mousse 8-1 should tone it nicely and it will give you a more exact idea of what level it is. If this tones well, you might want to make the colour more permanent using Igora Royal 8-1. Both the mousse and permanent dye version are a blue based ash.

    • Hannah 2 years ago

      Thanks so much for the response Maffew :-) so glad I found this page, very helpful :-)

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 2 years ago

      No problem Hannah, good luck with your colour!

    • Michele Gallagher profile image

      Michele Gallagher 24 months ago from Massachusetts

      This is a great article, and very timely for me! I have brown hair that I dye blonde and it often looks brassy to me. I just went a little darker to try and get some of the orange out. I'll have to try some of these tips because I would like to go lighter again eventually.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 24 months ago

      Hi Michele,

      I'm glad you liked the article. Some amount of warmth is unavoidable depending on how much lighter you go, but any unwanted colour can be corrected so you don't have to live with it.

    • tripleg7 24 months ago

      Maffew, thanks for letting me know what to get. Unfortunatley I can't find the mousse from a reputable seller. I'm going to the salon this weekend so this new stylist can hopefully add some balayage hi lights and tone it for me at the salon. However, I'm still not loving the base color on my hair. It's still way too warm for my complexion. And knowing this stylist she will want to color my whole head and then come back to do the balayage.

      :(

      If I do the permanent Igora are you concerned that my hi lights will pull too ashy? My poor hair has been through so much these last few months. I can't wait to get it to something more natural so I can stop messing with it for a long while.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 24 months ago

      Hi Tripleg,

      Your hair definitely has been through a lot. When so much is done, it just begins to complicate the entire process because more layers of colour just build up.

      I'd be good to leave it alone as much as you can once you get it fixed, and it would be so much easier if you were able to find a competent hairdresser in your area. It's shocking how many salons have just made it worse instead of fixing it.

      The shades I recommended are for your highlights only and won't be strong enough to affect the rest of your hair based on its current level. They also shouldn't over-tone your highlights. Though given your past and porosity issues, as well as any damage that may have built up, I am still a bit worried about you using permanent dye.

      You can't find the Igora Mousse, but are there any other semi-permanent dyes available to you? If you can find a violet-blue based 9A semi, that is very unlikely to over-tone or end up too dark.

      How is the condition of your hair overall at this point in time?

    • teray64 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      I wish you can help me with my dilemma.

      I bleached my niece's hair and it came out with different results, there's white, yellow, orange. I tried to get the other dark colors to reached at e least yellow level but I gave up after about 2 hours (I know I'm a bad Aunt). My niece was nonchalant about it (n0t sure if that's how really she feels), we were laughing about it but deep inside I was so guilty. After bleaching I tried to tone it with 9/61 (Wella KP Ash & Violet) with 10 vol. Applying to lightest colors first hoping that it will tone down, but it didn't. I am planning to use Wella Color touch 5/0 to see if it will darken those lighter color. In the meantime I asked her to deep condition her hair and use olive oil every two days.

      I used Wella Blondor soft blonde with 10vol dev to mid lenghts first 1 inch from scalp then 20vol to the rest 1 inch from scalp which I bleached later on with 20vol as well but took sometime to lighten. (I was expecting it will lighten fast, hot roots)

      Just to give some background before the failed bleach

      My niece was bleached before. She has long hair (half of her back). Dark brown hair from roots to mid lengths (about 3/4) and about level 7 brown to end. Virgin hair is about level 2

      Please help.

    • teray64 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      It's me again, I forgot to mention the goal of bleaching the hair, it is to even it out with the remaining level 7 brown (mid length to end)

      thanks again.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Teray,

      You're definitely not a bad aunt. Quite the opposite really as taking the time to do all this for your niece and feeling as bad about the results as you did show how much you care, so don't worry too much.

      In fact, if the hair you bleached had been dyed before (You mention it was dark brown, but her natural level is almost black), this can actually cause unevenness and sometimes even with a perfect application dyed hair will still show some unevenness after lightening.

      As for fixing it, you have a few options. The easiest of course is to darken it to even it out. I wouldn't recommend using Color Touch 5/0 for this though as this is a fairly dark colour as well as a demi-permanent dye. Demi-permanent dye is deposit only and will turn out darker than intended; especially if used on bleached hair as hair that has been bleached is more porous. It'd be best to use a colour that is 1 - 2 levels lighter than desired if using a demi or it will turn out near black. Taking this into account, you should be using a shade that is 1 level lighter than the darkest hair. Try Color Touch 6/0 as a strand test if in doubt and choose the right level based on how this reacts with the hair.

      The other option is to even it out by now applying bleach to her hair in order of how dark each section is. Applying first to the darker hair and then gradually to each area of subsequent darkness will even it out and then it can be toned. As this requires more bleaching though, it's only advisable if your niece's hair is still in good condition and you're confident you can apply the bleach to sections of hair like this. It'd be better to just darken it instead.

      Also, just to clarify, a level 7 is a medium blonde colour; not brown. Are her ends blonde or brown?

    • teray64 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      Huge thanks for replying so fast and for lifting up my spirit. Yes you are right my niece's hair was dyed to level 7 medium blonde that is after bleaching. Although my niece's hair is in good condition, I won't attempt the bleaching anytime soon, so I'll get her demi in the meantime or can you suggest permanet color? I kind of have an idea that 5/0 would be too dark but is the only color I could get from the pro store, apparently any higher than that is not popular. We live in Hong Kong btw. I think I can get Redken Colorance in 0 but if you can suggest a better shade demi or permanent with % of dev, I'll appreciate that. Thanks again.

    • teray64 23 months ago

      Ooops again! Colorance is Goldwell, not Redken. What do you think of Redken's EQ Shade in Violet?

      Thanks!

    • Ela ela 23 months ago

      Hello!

      I have followed your advise during the last months for my hair and they look pretty good thanks to you.

      One thousand times thank you for everything!

      I use 7.1 and sometimes 8.1 to lift my roots that a natyraly a 5, to achieve a number 7 overall wich look pretty natyral.

      I wanted to know if i woud achieve a better result with a 8.11 ash rich by wella coleston. What is the change in result between .1 And .11.

      I want to by them on line, but it looks that those that ship till my country are .11. I want to bye the right one.

      We do not have these profesionals here.

      And another thing, the no amonia colors are demipermanent ones?

      How often can they be used to tone down the hair?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Teray,

      I'm a big fan of Redken's treatments and other hair products, but I've never used their dyes. If you can get Redken colours though, I'd recommend trying Redken Chromatic 6N. This is a neutral dark blonde colour and should tone up and darken without ending up too ashy or darkening the hair too much.

      Alternatively, if you can get Igora Royal, Wella Koleston, Matrix SoColor, Indola, or ISO I.Color I'll be familiar with the shades and results they give and be able to better recommend a shade for you.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Ela Ela,

      Glad to see you again and it's great that your hair is looking good.

      When using professional colour, the first number is always the level, which is how dark the colour is. You probably already worked this out though. The numbers (Or letters), after the period, dash, or slash tell you what tones are present. The first number is the primary tone, which is most dominant, whilst any other numbers are extra tones in order of dominance.

      What this means is that the 8/11 has extra ash tone compared to the 8/1 and the toning is therefore more intense. If you find you tend to get a lot of warmth with the 8/1, the 8/11 may actually be a better option and will produce a cooler blonde.

      As for the ammonia; most demi-permanent dyes contain no ammonia, but you can also get permanent dyes that don't contain ammonia, so it's not a definite indication that a dye is a demi.

      When using a demi-permanent dye, you can use it as often as necessary, but even though they're gentle they do cause a very small amount of damage. Semi-permanent isn't damaging at all and can be used as much as you want without worry.

    • Ela ela 23 months ago

      Without bothering you!

      Could you tell me how to distinguish a green base ash from a blu-violet ones?

      Where is writen the information?

      Maybe somewhere in the catalog of the dye?

      I have seen before that when you use the ash dye of a mark (when you have alredy opened it) it can be seen the green in the opening.

      And if i am not wrong, the dye after prepearing turns really deep grey when it is a green base And is slightlt purple when it is blue base.

      Is there a method to know the difference between them before using the dye???

      Thank you again!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Ela Ela,

      That's very observant of you!

      It can be hard to tell without actually using the dye sometimes. A lot of the time though, the base colour will be listed on the colour chart or in the technical manual. Any good dye brand will have an ash tone that transitions to blue at a level 6 blonde, and then to mostly violet by the time you get up to level 9.

      Some brands don't do this though and the green ash is standard right up to the lightest shades. As you've realised, you can always let the dye oxidise and look at its appearance and even its smell if you can't find any information about it prior to use. Green dye compounds smell of resorcinol and look a deep greyish green colour when mixed. If the dye looks violet, light silver, blue, blue-grey, or a flat greyish colour and the smell of ammonia is more noticeable over anything else, it's more likely based on blue and/or violet tone.

      Other than that, Igora Royal -1, Wella Koleston /1 or /8 or /9, Indola .1 or .2, I.Color SA, Fudge Headpaint .0 or .2, and Matrix A shades are all violet or blue based at blonde level. If you're wondering about another brand and can't find any information about the base tones, feel free to ask and I'll tell you or try and find a technical manual if I'm not familiar with the brand.

    • teray64 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      I can buy Wella Koleston, Igora Royal and probably Indola here in HK.

    • tripleg7 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew! Something came up and I couldn't make it to my appointment, which I think may be a good thing. My hair is very damaged. It's at that point where it is just super frizzy from all of the chemical damage. I went ahead and ordered the igora mousse in 8.1 :)

      Hopefully that will tone all these warm tones down until my hair is in better condition and I can actually feel confident going to the salon (I definitely do not want a chemical burn). Now can you please tell me how I use the mousse (application) and how much of the bottle I should use (and how often). Thanks! :)

    • tripleg7 23 months ago

      quick question, would the 9.5,1 work (mousse) mixed with the 9.5,4?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Teray,

      Wella Koleston 6/0, Igora Royal 6-0, or Indola 6.0 would all work great. You could always strand test your chosen brand too and see whether it turns out too dark or too warm. Either of these issues can be resolved by dropping the level down for a lighter result or mixing the corresponding ash shade into these dyes for a cooler result (This will be a /1 in Koleston, -1 in Igora, or .1 in Indola).

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Tripleg,

      The mousse is definitely going to be a better option for you rather than having any more dye applied. As it's a semi-permanent dye, it conditions your hair and doesn't cause any damage.

      You can apply it a few ways, including by brush or hand, but you'll probably find it easier just to use your hands as it's relatively easy to work with anyway. All you need to do is shampoo your hair first, lightly towel-dry it so it isn't completely soaked, and then start applying.

      If you start by pumping it into your palm first and then dabbing it all over quickly and evenly, you can then massage that in and watch the toning action as it begins to occur. This will give you a better idea of how strong the toning action is. If it's not toning, just continue to apply more of the foam until there's enough in your hair to work.

      You can also apply the mousse to dry hair if you need a stronger effect. This works because there is no water in your hair diluting the product down, which makes it more concentrated. If you do this though, you will need to be very careful to apply as quickly and evenly as possible or the result can easily turn out patchy or over-toned. You probably won't need to apply to dry hair though as it should be strong enough on wet hair.

      After it begins to tone, you can leave it in as long as you want, but it will generally be best left in for 5 - 10 minutes to give it time to stain and last longer. You can also use the mousse as often as needed to maintain a cooler colour. As your hair is damaged, I would also recommend you condition it after rinsing out the mousse even though the mousse itself is conditioning. Your hair will benefit from the extra moisture.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 23 months ago

      The 9.5-1 is best used only on pale to light yellow hair, and the 9.5-4 is a beige tone so isn't as good for neutralising excess warmth. If the 8-1 is too strong you could try the 9.5-1, but you'll probably find the 8-1 works best at your current level.

    • tripleg7 23 months ago

      Great thanks Maffew!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      No problem Tripleg,

      Let me know if you have any problems with the mousse. It's very easy to use though so you shouldn't have too much trouble with it.

      Also, are you currently using any form of hair repair product like a protein treatment?

    • tripleg7 23 months ago

      I'm using the entire pureology strength cure line (including deep conditioning mask) and the pureology hydrate line

    • tripleg7 23 months ago

      Maffew I got the 9.5-1 as well so we will see which one I use :) The more I look at these hilites the more yellow they look, not orange. However, my overall color is just so warm because the dye the salon put on is fading. So you can see some orangish tones peeking through.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Are the Pureology products helping with any damage so far?

      With the mousse, it's more about how dark it is than the colour. Even though you have yellow tones, the 9.5-1 likely isn't strong enough to tone it. As you've got both though you'll be able to try it yourself and see what works best.

    • teray64 23 months ago

      Thanks Maffew. I'll let you know the result.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      No problem Teray; good luck with the colour.

    • lesley w 23 months ago

      Hi,I've previously had a lovely root stretch, which I was very happy with, it lasts for ages! The massive problem now is that after asking my hairdresser to take the blonde an inch or so higher, I'm left with a horrible orangey band where the blonde didn't lift. She used wella freelights(which took it to red/orange ) then because she was shocked it didn't lighten it enough she dried it off and put some freehand bleach through (no foil )the result is still orange where we wanted blonde! She wants to put some foil highlights through in a week, but I'm scared! Shall I just get her to apply some of the brown on my roots that I'd been having previously and give up ?! (I treated my hair with coconut oil 2days prior 2 this disaster, wella say it's because of that the hair didn't lift )help!! Thanks

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Lesley,

      Are you usually able to reach blonde in one bleach? Also, has any dye came into contact with that hair in the weeks prior to bleaching?

      If you can usually get to blonde without snagging at the orange stage, and no dye has been applied, it's more likely the bleach itself is weak, or the developer used was too low to drive the lightening far enough. Probably not a result of the coconut oil though, that's just an excuse.

      Putting the highlights through is a way to make the orange less obvious as they affect the overall colour, but isn't really the best way to treat it. It'd be better to just return the orange to brown or push through to blonde if your hair is still in good condition. Adding highlights will just complicate everything more than necessary.

    • lesley w 23 months ago

      Thanks for replying! The orange area is everything that was previously coloured the warm chocolate brown, I now have a good 4inches of that .my hair doesn't feel any different right now condition-wise and the oil before made it feel so good! It's hard to say,as this is the first time lifting a darker colour on my hair, I'm usually a Blondie, my natural colour is a dark mousey blonde, thanks

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Lesley,

      It would have a lot to do with the fact that it is dyed hair. Hair that's dyed with brown dyes is a lot more difficult to lighten than natural brown hair. It's not actually that surprising if it gets stuck at the orange stage and takes a second bleach to reach blonde. As long as it's in good condition you can bleach it again, but you could also go back to brown if you'd prefer. It's mostly a case of whatever you find easier to do.

    • lesley w2 23 months ago

      Thanks so much again,you have made me feel more relaxed about the whole thing, I've just got a few more days to put up with this until it's hopefully sorted! Im wondering why she was so surprised it didn't lift the first couple times, if she'd explained it like u and not freaked out, then I wouldn't have been so stressed myself! Thanks again, I love this page, so glad I found it x

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Lesley,

      Glad you feel better. Good luck with your colour!

    • Vicky 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      I colour stripped my dark hair dye recently then after waiting a few weeks, bleached and then bleach bathed my hair to dark orange with ice white roots (my hair underneath the dye is light grey/white) Now I'm waiting to second bleach it to yellow but can't stand the colour!! would the Igora 8.1 tone the orange out enough to look bearable until I can bleach again and will the Igora affect the next bleach?

      Appreciate your advice

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Vicky,

      The Igora 8.1 will tone dark yellow hair to blonde. It will still have some effect on darker orange hair, but it won't get rid of all the orange. It will likely just soften it so it's not as intense and noticeable.

      As you're not adding much colour and the dye itself is a fairly light colour it shouldn't have too much effect on the next bleach, but there always is that chance that it will affect the bleach a little.

      In any case, if you can avoid applying anymore bleach to your roots, that would be good. They turned white because they're natural hair without all the dark dye of your lengths and they can really start to weaken at this point with further bleaching. When there's no more melanin in your hair to react with the bleach, it primarily attacks the keratin protein that your hair is made out of.

    • Vicky 23 months ago

      Thanks for the help - I'll apply the mousse which has just arrived. Thankfully I didn't put any bleach on the roots, my hair is grey/white underneath so is now naturally that colour. I dyed my hair black for many years and the white roots are too noticeable now. Hopefully the next bleaching of the lengths will be enough to take the orange to butter yellow. Will see :)

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Vicky,

      I've caught on now. I was quite tired when I first read your question and didn't seem to put it together that it was your natural colour growing out. In any case, that's good that you've avoided applying bleach there.

      You'll definitely find it easier with a lighter colour. You'll be able to go longer between touch ups before the roots start to become more noticeable.

    • Chrissy 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      I have naturally black, asian hair and it was lightened to a cool brown color in December. Now I have some black roots showing through and it has faded a bit to a brassy dark brown. Under dim lighting, my hair looks great--in the sun and in brighter lighting, it is alarmingly orange!!

      I think I am darker than most of your commenters who are trying to get to blonde. My hair is more like:

      http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0143/4652/product...

      And I would like to correct or recolor my hair to be more like:

      http://a.dilcdn.com/bl/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/...

      or

      https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/bb/4d/35...

      What should I do for my black roots and current brassy hair? I have tried Wella Color Charm Toners in the past and nothing happened (now I know it was too light thanks to you!!)

      Based on your answers, I think I need to lighten / bleach my hair, then dye over it with an ash brown or dark ash blonde dye. What do you think?

      Thank you x millions!!!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Chrissy,

      Great question. A lot of my readers have mentioned that they've read the previous comments and as your situation is a bit different than others it could actually really help someone in a similar situation.

      As you've probably realised through reading the article and comments, the orange tone is revealed as darker hair is lightened. When you lighten your hair with brown dye, the orange tone is still revealed during lightening but the cool tones in the dye neutralise it at the same time.

      With washing however, this dye can fade out over time and your hair begins to show this orange tone. To correct it, you need to re-introduce more cool tone in the form of an ash or natural tone dye. I'd recommend Igora Mousse 5-0 if you want an easy to use fix as it's a semi-permanent dye and can be applied fairly easily and quickly directly after shampooing. This will add cool tone back into your hair but will fade out with washing too.

      For a more permanent fix, and sticking to Wella's Color Charm line if desired, use Color Charm 5A mixed with 10 vol developer. This is a light ash brown and will tone your hair. You can also use this to colour your roots (With 30 vol developer), but how well this works depends on how well your hair lightens. Was it lightened to your current colour with bleach or dye?

    • Chrissy 23 months ago

      Hey Maffew,

      Thanks for recommending different options. I am looking for a permanent fix and perhaps I will look into the Igora Mousse for touch ups in between. I believe you have recommended a "combination" like this before (?)

      For my hair history, it was a double processed coloring. First lightened with bleach (my black hair lifted to a 4), then dyed with Ash color from Ion Color Brilliance. I remember being surprised that the color said "Blonde" (I think it was 6A or even 7A!) The results were a nice cool brown, but the cool tones did not last very long and the orangey brown color (how it looked after just bleaching) started to show through. Your explanation helped me understand why that happens.

      Now I have said brassy hair (which is really bothersome in bright or sunny lighting) and some natural roots coming through. Just wondering how I should "restore" my hair :) I think it's the darker roots that are throwing me off... suspected I should look into a two-step process (bleach + color) again. But I see you recommend changing the developer level to deal with the growth.

      I hope my question helps your readers too! I have done hours of research on "How to fix brassy hair" and they all point to Shimmer Lights shampoo, Wella T14 or T18, etc and it's really targeted to the gals who are striving for a lighter or platinum color. Haven't been able to find ANY advice on toning brassiness from darker hair except on your blog!! Thank god. I learned a lot from you answers and also just read your article "How to get light brown hair" which was very helpful on the section when you discuss double-processing for naturally dark hair.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Chrissy,

      That's a good way to keep your color toned. With blonde hair you have the option of toning shampoos, but toning shampoo for brown hair is rarer and usually not very effective. The mousse gives better toning without any damage in-between colours.

      If it was double processed you can't be sure it would lighten enough with dye. I'd only recommend lightening with dye if you know it lightens well. Better to bleach and tone if you want the most reliable result.

      As for the colour being a blonde level, that's fairly normal. You use a lighter ash to tone after bleaching because the hair is more porous and will absorb a lot more of the colour. It also depends on brand because some brands have stronger ashes that turn out darker and you use a lighter level to compensate for this.

      The easiest thing to do would be to bleach the roots first as any dye you add will impact lightening if it touches the roots. If you don't know which bleach to use, Igora Vario, Wella Multi Blonde, or Loreal Platinum Plus are all great products. Mix this with 20 vol developer, apply to roots only, and lift to slightly lighter than your lengths.

      After this, tone with 6A. Apply it to roots first and then pull through to your lengths as it begins to tone for an even result. This shade may be a bit light for your lengths, but you don't want to go too dark after bleaching on the roots, so if you need more tone you can apply 5A to your lengths instead.

    • Michele Rodriguez profile image

      Michele Rodriguez 23 months ago from Fresno, California

      Hi Maffew, i need your advice. I had brown hair with low lights then i got pregnant and didnt do anything to my hair my whole pregnancy. Well my baby is 4 months now and my hair is grown out so i let someone try to do my hair. She bleached it but my hair is so long and thick i think she got lazy and didnt apply the bleach correctly because my hair underneath is still brown and my roots are still brown but the top is orangish/red! She did put a blonde color in it also. When i got home i was so disappointed. Help! How can i fix this?? I look awful

    • Chrissy 23 months ago

      Thank you for all your help. Will report back with my hair makeover!! xx

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      No problem Chrissy, good luck with your colour and let me know if you need any more help or run into any problems with it.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Michele,

      That definitely sounds like the bleach was applied inconsistently if only parts of your hair have lightened. The easiest fix at this point is going to be taking it back to brown with an ash or natural brown dye to neutralise and darken up that orange and even it all out again.

      The only alternative to this is to selectively apply bleach to the darker areas and lighten in steps until it's all the same orange colour and then tone it to finish the lighter colour you wanted. This can be difficult though and I wouldn't recommend it if you're not confident doing it yourself or don't have anyone else that can properly do it for you. You could easily end up making it more patchy if this wasn't done properly.

      If you have a look at my how to bleach hair article located here: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-bleach-hair...

      ...you can use the chart in the article to approximate what level your darker hair is. Use a natural brown shade one level lighter than this, applying to the lighter hair first and then to the rest of your hair towards the end of development. This will darken up and correct the lighter hair to match the rest for an even result.

    • Sarah 23 months ago

      Hi!

      I absolutely cannot get the stubborn orange out of my hair! My stylist applied a brown (trying to match my ash colored natural roots) over my highlighted hair. The highlights were ok but the color underneath was already very warm, if not orange to begin with. The brown that was applied turned orange and it's getting worse by the second. I just tried using an 8a wella with 10 volume developer to neutralize it and it looks exactly as it did before applying. It's a rich, dark orange color. I'm getting so frustrated. Before finding your sight, I was trying to tone it with wella T18 and T10, which did nothing except for maybe lighten it to a lighter shade of orange. I just want a nice, cool toned light brown. I'm at a loss here. Any suggestions?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Kayla,

      How dark is it? Brown hair is somewhere between a level 5 and a level 3, and an 8A isn't strong enough to cause any change to this. Wella's Color Charm toners are even weaker, with most designed for use on pale yellow hair (Level 9), or yellow hair (Level 8).

      If you're having trouble working out the level, you can look at the undertones chart in my bleach article here: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-bleach-hair...

      Ash dye, one level lighter than what your hair currently is should provide enough toning without darkening it.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 23 months ago

      Hi Mathew,

      I finally did a bleach test on my hair. If you wouldn't mind looking at the photo's and telling me what level of color I'm at. I followed the directions and bleached for 45 min, all of my length. Looks like it all bleached the same. There is 1 photo showing my hair color as is, and 1 showing the color after 45 min, per directions. There is 1 collage and the picture on the left side, (level 7) is what I'm wanting after I bleach and color. http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/8122009sarah/lib... Thanks alot Mathew! Oh btw, I bought some Olaplex to use with the bleach.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      Looks about a level 6 in that lighting. It did lighten quite well though considering it was dyed hair, and you shouldn't be too far off now.

    • Sarah 23 months ago

      I love your website! Thanks for all of your info and for being so helpful!!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      Thank you, I'm glad you like the articles and that you've found them helpful.

    • Ileana 23 months ago

      OMG you have saved my life!! Went to get my hair done on Saturday. I have dark hair and wanted some highlights. ..first thing I mention. .please don't mess my hair I have a photo shoot next week... and yes my hair ended up orange and yellow... thanks to you I was able to fix it by myself!!! And I must say it looks great. And only $20 dlls...

    • Lyla 23 months ago

      I had balayage done at a salon. He toned my hair using semi permanent toner. Now, when my hair starts to fade and get brassy, I like to tone my hair to ash brown. Will I get ash brown if I use ash toner and developer? Do I need to add red tone to the hair first so it won't be green? I just don't want my hair to turn green when I tone it ash brown. Thank you for your help. You're very informative and I learned a lot from you.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Ileana

      That's great to hear and I'm glad you were able to fix your colour!

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 23 months ago

      Hi Mathew, wanted to let you know where I'm at with my hair. I did an olaplex treatment in my hair the day before I did the strand test and put coconut oil on the strand for 4 hrs and then the strand came out perfect except being 1 level to dark. should have stuck with that method! I mixed my bleach per directions and then put the olaplex in per directions for my husband to put in the back of my hair. He was very slow as I expected but it took forever for the bleach to change my hair color. I'm talking 3 hrs and its between a level 4-5, I did find out my natural level was a 3 and not 4. I should have picked up on that clue when I watched a stylist use it on a girl on youtube and at the end she stated she had been working on her for 8hrs. My hair is still in good condition but next time I'm gonna do the olaplex hair treatment like before and then just mix the bleach and go from there. I did get the goldwell silk lift and the lotion that you add to it, also no amonia so I guess it wasn't strong enough to add the olaplex? I did my sides the next day and they got lighter, yellow and orange, so will have to go back through and paint it on, and we did use foils. my new growth lightened very quick and is yellow the level I needed. I am gonna take my time and get this done right no turning back now, lol. (QUESTION) what is the best way to nourish my hair while I'm waiting? I've got plenty of the redken cat you told me to get. last night I just used a spray bottle and dampened my hair then sprayed the redken cat all over and left it in 20 min. I would like to do something everyday to soak the nutrients back in, do you have any suggestions?? Thanks alot for all your help!

    • Annie 23 months ago

      Hi

      Here is my color history:

      Natural hair color black (asian) hip length hair.

      Has been bleached and dyed dark ash blonde to light ash brown over the last few years.

      (I used to bleach regrowth to get the true light ash brown)

      Last 10 months have been dyeing my hair blue black.

      Now I want to go ash brown again.

      2 days ago I went to Sallys and was recommended the following:

      -Wella color charm remover

      -then go over with Ion permanent 6A (dark ash blonde)

      my Results

      I used 2.5 boxes of Wella Color charm remover. After washing out:

      Hair on top of head medium orange

      black color band somewhere in middle of hair that did not change

      Rest of hair dark orange to a reddish brown color

      I followed instructions and then dyed my hair with Ion 6A (using 30 developer, developer to color ratio 2:1)

      Results

      Top of head light auburn

      Rest of hair reddish caramel dark brown hair.

      Nothing close to what I wanted

      What I did the next day

      Use green food coloring with normal shampoo and wash hair

      Results

      Hair on top of head back to medium orange

      black color band somewhere in middle of hair now faded

      Rest of hair dark orange to a reddish brown color

      Right now I am sitting with a oil treatment on my hair looking for help. I ultimately want a nice medium ash brown color.

      Thanks and btw your blog is one of the best.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Lyla,

      You don't need to add red, and your hair can only turn green with the use of an ash dye that is actually green-based.

      The correct type of ash to use depends on how light the hair to be toned is, as well as what colour the balayage is (Whether it is yellow, golden, or more orange).

      If you look at the base tones chart in my bleach article here: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-bleach-hair...

      You can estimate what level your hair is. If you can tell me that, as well as what colour it currently looks, I can tell you what would be best for toning.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      I've heard the Olaplex can have that affect on lightening. I haven't used it personally because they don't list the ingredients and I just don't like the idea of adding a mystery chemical to bleach. Especially when it is claimed to be able to do something nothing else has ever been able to achieve. Normally, even in dyed hair, salon bleach with 20 vol developer is going to lift at least 2 - 3 levels in 40 minutes. When the colour barely budges after 3 hours, it makes me wonder what exactly the Olaplex is doing to the bleach to ruin its effectiveness.

      As for nourishing your hair, the Redken Cat treatment is great for this. It's one of the best protein treatments around. Apart from that, try to keep it properly hydrated with deep conditioning and this will also protect against breakage as dry hair is brittle and more prone to damage.

      You could even go the natural route with this and just use a small dab of olive oil applied to dry hair after styling. The olive oil coats the hair shaft and locks in moisture, whilst it also contains vitamin E which can help to soften your hair and benefit your scalp. You only need a very small amount though, as too much will make your hair feel oily, and I'd recommend not applying oils before bleaching as they can reduce lightening by blocking penetration of the bleach.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Annie,

      With the amount of times your hair has been dyed, it's no surprise that the dye remover resulted in an uneven colour. It's very rare for that amount of buildup to ever be completely removed with dye remover.

      The best way to go about this is going to be to bleach the hair in stages. Start with the black banding and let that lighten. As it lightens to match the next darkest hair, apply more bleach to this hair and keep doing this until it all becomes the same level as the lightest hair on your hair. That will even it up so that any dye you apply will produce a consistent colour.

      After that, to get a medium brown, you need your hair to be about this light overall: http://i50.tinypic.com/29erlup.jpg

      That then needs to be toned with a light ash brown (5A). I know you want a medium ash brown, but I'd recommend using a shade lighter like this as hair can be quite porous after using dye remover and bleach. Chances are it will turn out way too dark if you use a medium brown dye.

      For the toner, I would recommend avoiding Ion and using a quality professional brand instead. You could use Wella Koleston 5/1 or Igora Royal 5-1 for example, and this is going to give you a better result. If all else fails, I think you can buy Wella Color Charm 5A at Sallys. This is an at-home product, but it's better than other similar products if you can't get a salon dye.

    • Annie 23 months ago

      Hi Maffew

      Thank you so much, I already feel a lot more hopeful. While I gather my items, I have a question about using developer volume. For bleaching should I go 30 or 20 and for the Kolestone should I use 20 or 30? And just to clarify is it 2:1 developer to bleach powder ratio? And what ratio to use for the developer to Kolestone ratio?

      Also If I use deep conditions before hair color, will it act as filler and reduce the porosity thus accepting true color better? I will still get the 5/1 but just curious if that would help.

      Many thanks again

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Annie,

      With salon bleach it's best to go no higher than 20 vol developer. This applies to Wella's Multi Blonde bleach powder and other bleaches in this brand if you wanted to use Wella. With generic bleach powders you can often go as high as 30 vol, but even with that strength they tend to produce less lightening than salon bleach and 20 vol.

      Your mixing ratio is correct generally for most brands, including Wella, but it can vary too. It's best to use the right ratio for whatever brand you decide to use to get the proper consistency and lightening.

      For Wella Koleston dye, use 20 vol as the developer. Higher volumes produce more lightening, but you're using the dye for toning only. The mixing ratio is 1:1 dye to developer.

      As for the conditioning, that can reduce porosity, but a clear protein filler will help more with that problem as the protein fills in the damaged areas that are most porous.

    • Lydia Tyler 23 months ago

      Hi I have natural red/ ginger hair and want a blond I have bleach highlights but would love all over blond , tried tint will not lift enough? Can you recommend a tint that will lift my hair or just stick to bleach ? Thank you

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 23 months ago

      Hi Lydia,

      High lift dye lightens more than regular dyes: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-use-high-lift-ha...

      If that doesn't work, your best option is to prelighten with bleach, and then tone separately. If professional high lifts like the Wella Koleston 12 or Matrix UL lines don't work for you, no other dye is likely to either as these are the best non-bleach lighteners.

    • Ela ela 22 months ago

      Hello again!

      Although i achieved the color i wanted, i always read the other haircolor cases.

      You are really great in explaining thing!

      Question!

      In damp hair, before i dry, i use 3-4 drops of argan oil for frizz and nourishment.

      Ia olive oil a better opsion to argan?

      Maybe another oil?

      No heat protectant around here.

    • Weev 22 months ago

      Hello Maffew

      I have had a month of hair nightmares, all self induced.

      I normally get a full head of highlights on my light brown hair but got lazy and let the roots grow to around 3 inches, so I opted for a "champagne blonde" box dye that was a lovely blonde on the lower half of my head but an orange/gold at the root.

      2 weeks later, I decided to bleach my hair to try and lighten this, it went bright yellow.

      After some research, a week later I used a medium ash blonde box dye to try and tone down the frightening beacon of brightness (aka my head) and I was back to an ashy blonde on the bottom half of my hair, which I like, but my roots once again a very strawberry orange blonde.

      So, a week after that!! I tried 2 toners, one called iced platinum, which did nothing, the second a cool ash, which did nothing....

      My poor hair is absolutely frazzled at the ends, golden orange at the top and I now own enough products to open a salon, if only I knew what I was doing! Any help and advice for the colour and condition would be greatly appreciated. xxx

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Ela,

      You can use either oil for the same purpose and roughly similar results. Argan oil has a woody fragrance and you might find you prefer this over the smell of olive oil. It also has a slightly thinner consistency than olive oil so it's a lighter moisturiser and weighs your hair down less.

      Overall, try both if you'd like, then continue to use the one that works best. That's the easiest way to find the best for your own hair.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Weev,

      Don't worry too much, it's not your fault how it turned out. Box dyes contain developer that is chosen for you, rather than being able to add your own. 10 vol deposits colour with very minimal lift, but higher concentrations of developer lighten and colour hair. Blonde box dyes generally contain 20 - 30 vol developer as most home users will be using it to lighten their hair to blonde. It's a one size fits all approach that can cause problems if you use the colour for a different result.

      Now, highlights pick up any colour you apply more readily than the rest of your hair as they are lighter and they are bleached. Bleached hair is porous hair and absorbs colour better. This means that the highlights will take the blonde dye very well and this compensates for any darker lengths that show warmth from the lightening. It's the overall effect. Just like if you have coppery highlights they will cause your overall colour to look lighter and warmer; toned highlights cause your overall colour to look lighter and cooler, so it can compensate for any warmth.

      The darker roots which aren't highlighted don't take the colour from the dye as readily. The dye lightens them and reveals warmth, but the small amount of cool tone in a champagne shade isn't enough to adequately tone this darker hair, so it ends up looking orange.

      As for your later attempts to tone it, you'll generally find that if your hair is still a golden to orange colour, it's somewhere between a dark blonde and a light brown when properly toned. The ash dyes you used were likely just to light to affect this darker hair. If you use a darker ash though, you could only use this on the roots as it would be too strong on your lengths. It would also still leave the roots darker, even if properly toned.

      The best way to fix this is to apply bleach to only your roots, and lighten them to match your lengths as closely as possible. Follow this up by toning to produce an even result. However, as you've said your hair is frazzled after all the lightening and colouring, I would only recommend doing this if it can stand up to it. It'd be best to wait it out for a while and use repair treatments for as long as possible beforehand.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Ela,

      It's best to use separate toners on the orange hair and the lighter highlights. Any toner that is strong enough to tone the orange, will be far too intense on the highlights; and any colour that is light enough to properly tone the highlights won't budge the orange in the darker hair.

      Use 0/88 for orange, 0/11 for yellow/gold, or 0/81 for golden-orange. These need to be mixed with another dye to work properly, and the exact amount you use is dependent on the level of the hair, how much unwanted tone is present, and how intense you want the ash tone to be.

      One of the easiest ways to use them is to use 1 cm per 30 mls of colour at level 9, adding another cm for every extra level. This means if you were toning hair that was a level 5, you would use 5 cm of special mix per 30 ml of colour. If you used a whole tube of dye, you would double that amount as 30 ml is half a tube.

    • Marta 22 months ago

      Hello!

      Im so glad I found this page and I hope you can help me little bit!

      I went to the hairdresser yesterday and I asked for a nice golden blonde that would look natural (and he showed me a picture of one blonde and we agreed the colour would look like in the picture). I had highlights before in really light blonde and my hair is dark blonde.

      The hairdresser applied bleach on me and thats all. When I saw it, my hair is kind of orange, specially in the roots (and some parts of the roots are black because he didnt apply it properly) and the rest of the hair is kind of dark blonde-orangish.

      Apart from crying and going back to the hairdresser to show him the disaster, what else should I do? what I should apply now to make it

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Marta,

      That's kind of shocking. Not just the poor application, but the fact that he didn't tone your hair after bleaching at all.

      You can tone it with ash dye to correct the colour. Any patches of black hair need to be bleached if you want the colour to be even, and if there are different tones of orange and gold present, this difference in colour can also remain even if it's properly toned.

      If you look at my bleaching article here: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-bleach-hair...

      ...there is a level chart which you can use to approximate what level your hair currently is. It's probably somewhere between a 5 to 6 at the moment, but if you can check this and let me know what level it actually is, I'll be able to tell you what dye to use.

      Once you know which dye, you will then need to apply it and allow it to tone until you're happy with the colour.

    • Weev 22 months ago

      Hi Maffew

      Thanks for the swift response. Is it worth waiting until my roots come through to make it beneficial putting more bleach on my hair or should I do it before the blasted things make an appearance?

      I actually contacted the maker of the toners (scott cornwall) he suggested a bircarbonate rinse and re-toning with the iced platinum, I tried this today, no joy, the orange/golden glow on the top of my head remains.....

      Weev x

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Weev,

      The sooner you lighten the roots, the better. Otherwise what happens is that you'll have dark roots, a band of orange hair after, and then blonde. It just further complicates application. If you do it before new regrowth grows in, your colour will be good and you only need to touch up the new growth then.

      The toner won't work because your hair is too dark. In most cases, platinum toners are only going to have an effect from level 8 onwards (Yellow base - which is light blonde), and are best when applied to hair that is pale yellow.

    • Ela ela 22 months ago

      I tryed both oils!

      As always you are right.

      Olive oil is heavy and weights down my hair and it has a heavy smell too.

      So if my roots are a number 7 and they take me a little brassy (my length is an 8) i shoud mix a 7.o with 3 cm of 0.11 or 0.81 of koleston to take out the brassynes and look ashy?

      Is this mix a better opsion than buying a 8.11 of koleston to lighten my roots that are a natyral 5.

      Love your work in this site!

    • Annie 22 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      Annie again. I just wanted to say that you are a Hair Genius. First off Thank you. I followed what you advised. I bleached hair out evenly. Went with Wella Charm and my hair turned out bang on. I might be back when my black roots grow out long enough to get some tips on double processing roots. Otherwise I am very happy and you are one of the best, if not The Best Hair Gurus out there. And someone who is kind enough to share and sincerely advise without passing judgement or with holding professional tips.

      Thanks Maffew

      Cheers,

      Annie

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Ela,

      Argan oil definitely feels and smells nicer. It's just got quite a good consistency and texture that suits it well to this use.

      As for the amount of special mix, that is correct, but the 8/11 is a more reliable option for what you want to achieve. If brassiness is a usual problem, you might want to try mixing the Koleston 8/11 with 40 vol developer. This will take out more natural pigment so the final colour is influenced more by the dye colour rather than the leftover pigment in your hair.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Annie,

      Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad your colour has turned out great and I'll look forward to helping you with your roots if you have any trouble.

    • Daryl Ann Guy profile image

      Daryl Ann Guy 22 months ago from Midway City, California

      Hi Maffew

      I bleached and dyed my hair for the first time last weekend however the ION Sable (no number or letter) has turned my hair a bright ginger. Not sure if that was the idea or not. However I also bought a 6n Ion Medium Blonde. Should I go over it with that or do you thing I would need to lift again. I am unsure. I also have a feria Downtown Brown (dark ash blonde available but I think they use green therefore turing my hair the wrong color. Thanks in advance.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Daryl,

      How dark does it currently look? Also, what colour was your hair after bleaching, and is the colour the dye produced warmer than this?

      It can be toned with blue-based ash, but the correct level of ash dye to use will depend on how dark it is. If you can give me a rough idea of how dark it is and what dye brands you're able to get, I can give you a shade recommendation.

    • Daryl Ann Guy profile image

      Daryl Ann Guy 22 months ago from Midway City, California

      Its not very dark maybe like a 7rc( or 7rg)....somewhat more 8rc (8rg) at the top (ironically i did not bleach my roots) i believe i had some fear of bleach and it came out inconsistent)........ii am able to get any brand at....isallys ion wella loreal etc

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Daryl,

      Best option would be to tone with a mix of Wella Koleston 8/2 and 8/1 for this, as the 8/2 is green-ash and will neutralise the red properly. You can't get Koleston at Sally's and Wella Color Charm doesn't have green ash blonde dyes. You can still use Color Charm 8A, which is blue-based and will neutralise a lot of the warmth, but the result won't be as good.

      The problem is, red tones aren't normally found in blonde hair as it transitions to orange and then to yellow at that point, and ash dyes will do the same thing so that they tone properly at each level. Koleston's /2 green based shades are designed for colour correction and not all colour lines will have a similar shade available.

    • peopleplaces profile image

      peopleplaces 22 months ago

      Hello Maffew, you seem to have much knowledge in this field, hopefully you can help a fellow hubster in distress!

      I dyed my hair to jet black around January (my hair was a medium ash brown before, also virgin hair) and I liked it for awhile. But I really wanted to change it up, so I bought Oops Color Extra Condition and applied that ALL over my head, roots included. Mind you I did this today, 3 months after I dyed my hair jetblack. So there were natural roots growing (about an inch or and inch and a half) and I didn't know whether or not i needed the color remover all over my head so I did it anyways. Afterwards it gave me a dark brownish black I guess you can say, and when you go into the light it has a red tint, when I was washing it off I could notice some red in it as well. So after I used L'OREAL paris Exellence non-drip creme in 6A light ash brown (that is the color I wanted to achieve). Unfortunately, I ended up with DARK brown hair (I almost thought it went to black again) and copper red roots. I desperately need your help! Please help me get to the light ash brown that I wanted! I can't leave the house with these hot roots.

    • Weev 22 months ago

      Hi Maffew.

      So I stripped the top half of my head with a stripper that I was sent by Scott Cornwall, maker of the failed toners, as he was convinced my hair wouldn't take to the toners because it was colour sealed....

      I then used the platinum ice toner he also sent, same brand. I am once again back to bright yellow hair. The toners did nothing.

      To say I am devastated is an understatement, I am sat on my bathroom floor sobbing. I can't afford a hairdresser and am just out of ideas what to do. Should I re dye with an ash blonde? Should I go for light or medium? Should I admit defeat and shave the lot off!?

      Weev x

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Peopleplaces,

      Dye generally won't lighten hair that is previously dyed. This is because it only effectively lightens the natural pigment in your hair and any previous artificial colour is left untouched.

      The dye remover is a good first step because it breaks down this artificial colour so that it can be washed out without damaging like bleach. It can only remove so much colour though, and black dye is very concentrated. Also, because it works by reversing the oxidation reaction that takes place when permanent dye develops, your hair needs to be shampooed very thoroughly to remove the broken down dye. Any dye molecules left in the hair can oxidise again when exposed to the air or another dye and just darken up again. This is what I'm thinking has happened with your hair, as a 6A wouldn't normally be strong enough to tone and darken hair that is still as dark as yours was. As for the roots, because this was your natural hair, the 6A actually lightened that. This also shows you how the dye can't lighten previously dyed hair but it has no problem lightening your regrowth.

      To fix it and get it to the right colour, the best method is going to be to bleach it all to a light orange colour and then tone that with light ash brown to neutralise the orange and. Of course, this is only if you're comfortable using bleach and your hair is still in good condition though. It would also need to be applied to the darker lengths first and then to your roots last in order to even it all out and get rid of the hot roots.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Weev,

      The toner will not work because your hair is too dark, and no amount of dye remover is going to fix that. You can either tone it with ash dye at the correct level, or lighten it to match the rest of your hair and then tone.

      Have a look at the base tones chart in my bleach article here: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-bleach-hair...

      Based on the fact that there is orange tone present in the top of your hair, and that you initially used a medium ash blonde, which is a level 7, to tone the majority of your hair and this didn't affect the top...the top section of hair is likely about a level 6. Have a look at the chart and use that to approximate and confirm this.

      If that's the case, you're going to have to use a dark ash blonde dye on that hair if you want to tone it. Because this dye is darker than the colour that properly toned the majority of your hair, you're going to have to apply it only to the darker orange-gold hair or else it will over-tone the rest. The only way to get around this would be to lighten the darker hair to match the rest and then re-tone with medium ash blonde.

      Let me know if you have any concerns or questions about this.

    • Ana 22 months ago

      Hi, I just want to be sure of what im going to make, I have my natural hair medium brown and I want a new look a beautifull Jessica Biel tipe I went to a salon and they made a light in the top of my hair almost yellow, I didnt like it and They put a tonner but in 2 weeks it appears again but almost orange, very disapointed I decide it to put a blonde to look almost the same the worst thing it puts yellos and in the weeks after again orange, I decide finally paint at my same color of my natural hair and I put 6.1 at the weeks again the orange tone at the back, then a 5.1 at the month the back orange tone. I dont want to continue with this, just want to get ride off the orange tone and to keep growing my natual hair. Thanks

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Ana,

      Unfortunately, any time you lighten your hair, that natural pigment is permanently decolourised.

      The reason that the warm tones appear is that dark hair has a deep, rich base. This is a foundation of warm golden and red tones that gives your brown hair the depth it needs to actually look brown. If you bleach your hair, this colour is gradually lightened and it transitions from brown, to red, to orange, to gold, and finally to progressively lighter shades of yellow.

      At that point, cool tone is added back into the hair to combine with the warm tone to produce a neutral result. The reason that the warmth keeps appearing for you is that every time that cool tone fades back out (All dyes fade - even permanent dyes), the warmth is revealed again. Or in other words, it's because the dye keeps fading that it keeps coming back.

      The only way you can actually rid yourself of this problem is to continue growing your hair out until your natural colour replaces the previously dyed hair. Other than that, you can only continue toning it to hide the warmth.

      You may want to try using either Igora Expert Mousse 4-0 or De Lorenzo's Cool Naturals shampoo for this instead of dyeing. The mousse is applied after shampooing your hair, or the shampoo is used in place of your regular shampoo. Either can help reduce the orange appearance without having to continuously dye your hair, and because they're used when you wash your hair, you don't have to waste time waiting for dye to develop. It may cause you less stress in the long term while your hair grows.

    • PiperJames profile image

      PiperJames 22 months ago from OKC, OK (for now)

      Hi there - You are just wonderful!! Thank you for all these great articles & all the questions you answer giving help to everyone -- thank you!

      I had dyed my blonde highlighted & 7W hair to 5VR for about 6 months & want to go back to my natural color (about a 7 or 8 natural dark blonde, I think). I used Effasol color remover & 20 vol and it turned bright orange mid-shaft (I didn't have enough product to evenly cover my hair either), so I did another packet w/20 vol with pretty much same orange streaky result. Filled it with 8W & 5 vol and turned out really brassy mid-shaft like tangerine orange. Apparently I didn't need to "fill-it" with a warm tone - like it was recommended to me to do.

      Next day I use Ion 7A-7.1 Medium Ash Blonde to counteract the brassiness & orange. It toned it down some, but mid-shaft looks reddish/auburn now.

      3 weeks later went back to Sally's and lady recommended Blond Brilliance Creme Oil Lightening Toner in Violet w/25 vol to try and remove the rest of the reddish/auburn tone. I did a strand test last night & it turned the mid-shaft back to orange! (roots are really light blonde and pretty, but I know that's because that hair has not been dyed yet).

      Goal is to try and get this reddish/orange mid-shaft color removed & get back to my natural color - which I know I'm about a 7 or 8, but unsure what my natural tone is... probably a natural or ash is my best guest. Thanks so so much!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Piper,

      Thank you, I'm glad you like the articles.

      The oil bleach didn't work as a toner because you need a blue tone to counteract copper. Violet will only neutralise yellow, so it has no effect on orange or red hair. The reason it became orange again is because the bleach lifted more colour out, including the ash dye you had applied.

      At this point, I'd recommend you continue bleaching it a little further as it's likely not light enough yet. You see, the 7A you applied deposits cool tone at level 7, so if it only has a mild effect it means your hair is still quite a bit darker than that level or else you would have seen a stronger toning action. You'll probably still need to lift out at least 2 levels before you reach your goal.

      It'd also really help if you can focus the bleach on the darker patchiness first and then apply more bleach to the rest of your hair when that lightens up to match. That will even the colour up so it isn't so patchy and you'll get a better colour once you get to toning it.

      Once you get it light enough, tone with 7A again to neutralise the warmth. Let me know if you need any clarification on any of this or you run into any problems and I'll be glad to help.

    • PiperJames profile image

      PiperJames 22 months ago from OKC, OK (for now)

      What type of bleach do you recommend I use? I have v-lights from when I use to highlight my hair, but no other bleach products. Thank you Thank You!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Piper

      It'd be perfectly fine to use the V-Light bleach. Apart from that, products like Wella Multi Blonde and Igora Vario are excellent, but you shouldn't need something this strong for the amount of lightening you have left. Just make sure whatever you end up using is in powder form to make it easier to apply in sections and get the darker areas evened up. Products that are oils or creams can be used for this if necessary, but it is harder to keep them in the right place.

    • PiperJames profile image

      PiperJames 22 months ago from OKC, OK (for now)

      What level of developer should I use & for how long in the 2 different color hair sections (estimated) as I know that's probably difficult to speculate? Thanks!!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Piper,

      It's better to just use 20 vol and apply first to darker areas only. Let those areas lighten up to match the next darkest sections, then apply to those sections and continue like this until it all matches. You can use different strengths and apply all at the same time, but this is more of a hassle and may not completely even it up.

    • Ana 22 months ago

      Thank you, thank you so much for taking the real time to answer, and because I can really actually trust in what you are advise me. Just 1 thing very important for me If I use every week a 100% natual treatment on my hair (avicado, olive oil, aloe, honey or apple vinegaretc) this afect in any way the color or dye in my hair?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 22 months ago

      Hi Ana,

      That's alright, glad you found it helpful.

      Most natural products you could use shouldn't cause colour loss or affect the colour, unless you're using something which has a strong pigment to it (Which is very unlikely in most cases).

      Any form of vinegar works well after conditioning because it's acidic. The acidity helps to seal the hair cuticles and lock in moisture and colour. Conditioner itself is acidic and meant to perform the same function, but you can add a small amount of vinegar or use the vinegar separately to further enhance the effect; especially right after dyeing or bleaching because these kinds of products are alkaline and swell the hair. Acidic products like conditioner and vinegar help normalise the pH of your hair after dyeing.

      With oils like olive oil and argan oil, if it's the pure product you will get the best results by using only a tiny amount. If your hair is very dry you can use a little extra. They're not the best thing to use for oilier hair though as they are oils and will just exacerbate this kind of problem. As long as you don't apply it before dyeing it won't affect the colour. When you do use dyes, you want your hair to be very slightly oily through not washing it for a day to protect your scalp from irritation, but too much oil will prevent the dye from penetrating properly and the colour can fade faster.

      Other products like honey, aloe, avocado pulp, and egg whites should be applied and then rinsed out rather than left in your hair, as I'm sure you know. None of these should affect the colour. Honey and avocado will moisturise dry hair, whilst the protein in whipped egg whites may help strengthen weakened hair to some extent. It's definitely nowhere near as strong as an actual protein treatment, but there's no harm using it.

    • Ana 22 months ago

      ;) great thanks

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 21 months ago

      Hi Mathew, I'm back, lol. I'm about 95% complete. I have been conditioning my hair and using keratin products. I have just a little bit of orange left in the very front lengths and I will have to go over my roots again and then I'll be ready to color. Ok, so now I need to know how to color my hair when I'm ready. In the past I was dying over partial grey hair so I would start at my roots and then pull through about 5 mins before rinsing. Do I do the same thing now that its all light? I must say this has been a very long journey... Again, I would like to thank you for all your help. Its very nice of you to help all of us non educated, diy hair people... Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      That's great that you almost have your colour, and thanks for the update.

      With the dye, it will help to apply to your roots up to 10 minutes ahead of your lengths so that the grey hair takes the colour properly. As your hair has just been lightened though, the dye will initially need to process on your lengths for a longer amount of time as well; it won't be enough just to leave it about 5 minutes. Once it is dyed and you start to get new regrowth, it is perfectly fine to only dye the new growth and pull the dye through to the lengths to refresh the colour then. This prevents further damage and helps to get a more even result between the root touch up and lengths.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 21 months ago

      Hi Mathew, and thanks for answering, I have another 2-3 weeks as I need to retouch this small area, but to make sure I understand. Even though I will be bleaching my roots before I dye my hair, I should start at the roots about 10 min and then apply to the rest for the amount of time requested??? Or if its all lightened apply to all and let process the full amount of time?? Thanks again, for all your help and for being patient with me, my nerves have been on edge just waiting to get the color on and feel normal again. Thanks, Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      Apologies for my late reply. If you still need to bleach it a little more, continue as you have been, focusing on getting the darker areas all even. It's with the dye that applying to your roots first will help, and this is because there is grey hair and this can be more resistant to colouring. The longer contact time helps it penetrate better in the more resistant hair.

      With lightening though, you want to apply to the roots later instead because the warmth from your scalp boosts lightening and it won't turn out even.

    • PiperJames profile image

      PiperJames 21 months ago from OKC, OK (for now)

      I'm going to lighten my hair this week with V-lights & 20 vol. We've compared my new natural hair growth with Matrix socolor swatches & I'm in between a 7N & 8N... closer to the 8N. Since I want to get back to my natural color after bleaching out this reddish-orange, what color should I put on after the bleach?

      Originally you recommended 7A, do you still recommend 7A or should I use an N instead?

      Should I apply a shade or 2 lighter than the color I'm trying to achieve?

      The color my hair is now is about a 6W, which is darker than my natural color coming in. Thanks in advance!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Piper,

      The problem with looking at swatches is that it shows the intended colour of the dye. The colour you actually get is a result of the colour of the dye plus the colour that is actually in your hair already though. This means that if there's a lot of warmth, the result will be warmer than it should be, and that's why you use a cooler shade to correct for this.

      Using the ash or a mix of ash and natural will be more likely to get you a natural tone result. If anything, aim for slightly cooler than what you want because it will fade out fairly quickly with shampoo if it is slightly too ashy, but you will need to tone it again if it is still too warm. As for the level, use an 8 if that's what your hair is closer to.

      Alternatively, you can always use demi-permanent dye for toning your hair instead. By using an ash shade and removing it as soon as you like the colour, you can exercise a lot more control over the result.

    • Ally 21 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      I have natural level 4 or 3 med. brown hair. That is what my stylist said anyway. I always thought it was dark dark blonde, because I was born a blonde tow head. I always got highlights done by my stylist, just a few. Last time I told her I didn't want bleach anymore, but I wanted my whole head blonde. I told her I would be happy with a 7 med. blonde without any orange tones. She said lets see how high of blonde we can get you with a high lift blonde and 30 volume. She told me she only use 30 volume and a half, she didn't double it. But she did reapply more of the mixture to the top of my scalp after about 20 minutes of processing. I think it burned my scalp a bit, because it was sore for several days after.

      Now I think my hair is a light strawberry blonde orange color. I think it's a level 6 now, since the undertone is still orange-gold at that level. She put a purple toner on it, but it didn't do much. She told me to avoid ash.

      It's been about a month since I went to the salon. I would like it to be lighter. A medium blonde level 7. I think I need to use a blue based ash color to cancel the orange. Would a 8a or 9a and 20 volume lift it enough to the level 7? Also, would the 9a bump my roots up to a light brown level 5? Thank you so much!

    • deedee 21 months ago

      First, I can't believe how much help you hand out. Incredible! Hoping this one is fairly easy.

      Recently had my gold-ish level 7/7.5 hair dyed red and I really dislike it. I'd say it's a light auburn, level 6. Roots are lighter and golder than ends, which are little more cherry (UGH.) I'm about 30% grey and obviously my ends were a little fried. Natural color of the rest is a flat light brown.

      I'd like to go to a rich brown with a hint of gold, or neutral...level 6 or just a touch darker...but of course I'm terrified of all this red coming through. I've done all I can to fade the color but don't want to color strip or bleach (my hair is very fine but thankfully short)

      Do you have a brand/formula recommendation?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Ally,

      Just digressing a bit first; the chemical reaction after mixing dye or bleach is most intense for the first 10 - 20 minutes, and you'll see the lightening begin to slow down after that. This is also why the irritation is worst for that first period and starts to feel better as it continues to process. Applying fresh product is likely the cause of your scalp irritation, because this means your scalp is being exposed to the strongest effect twice in the one process.

      As for toning it, violet is useless because violet will only neutralise yellow tone. This is because of the way light interacts with your hair. Blue neutralises orange, and green neutralises red. A balance of any of these pairs of colours looks neutral. Ash dye itself will contain anything from green to violet tone depending on the level of the dye. Eg, a medium ash brown is just about always mostly green-based because red tone is more prominent at that level, but a light ash blonde is going to be mostly violet with a dash of blue because the base tone present is gold (Yellow with a hint of remaining copper).

      Most brands adjust their ash dyes like this as they get lighter but some just continue using green and gradually shift to blue. It doesn't tone properly and it causes some hairdressers who use these brands to wrongfully end up believing that ash won't ever give a nice colour in blonde hair. It's not the shade, it's the brand of dye.

      As for getting it lighter and toning it, if your hair hadn't already been dyed twice (With high lift and then toned), the 8A with 20 vol developer would be an excellent way to take it that level lighter while adding enough cool tone in to keep it from looking too warm. This won't always work in dyed hair though. There's a point at which the amount of dye in your hair begins to make any further lightening impossible without resorting to bleach. You're probably not there yet, but you still may see reduced lift with further dye.

      This is because the dye will continue to lift natural pigment, but it won't have an effect on the artificial colour that has been added through any dye. The more dye in your hair, the less lightening you can get from further dyeing. If this is an issue you end up facing, bleach it 1 level with 10 vol developer instead and then tone with the 8A separately.

      Finally, any medium brown regrowth will be lightened 1 - 2 levels with dye and 20 vol depending on brand and individual hair type.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Deedee,

      If the red is at level 6, you won't get a level 6 result because the act of toning will add pigment into your hair. In order to neutralise the appearance of the unwanted red, ash tone needs to be added and this will darken it slightly. It'd be closer to a level 5 by the time enough cool tone has been added to produce a neutral result. Otherwise you would have to bleach wash it at least 1 level lighter first.

      As for toning it as is, use a dark ash blonde (6A), for this for a roughly neutral result. If you use a 5A, this will remove the red more completely, but it will end up darker. You can add a soft gold tone by either using a gold concentrate in certain brands, or mixing the ash shade with a small amount of gold shade. If you mix shades, you should go for the darker 5A ash and mix with 6G for this as it will dilute down the ash dye. Concentrate is better if available.

      For a brand and formula, I'll give you an Igora Royal formula. I can translate this into different brands and colour lines if you can't get this or would prefer a different brand. It's more of a guide line to give you the general gist of how you'd be mixing the colour.

      Using this brand, use 6-1 dark ash blonde with a dash of 0-55 gold concentrate. Or, use half 5-1 with half 6-5 if not using concentrate (Notice the gold shade is lighter; this is to lighten the colour load of the darker ash shade, whilst adding only a soft golden tone). Another option would be to use 3/4 6-1 mixed with 1/4 6-5, and a dash of 0-22 blue concentrate.

      One last thing however, as there are a few different colours in your hair, this has a significant effect on toning. You don't want to apply the ash formula to the lighter roots for as long as it will become more intense on that lighter hair for example. You could play this by ear and apply gradually in sections starting with darker, warmer hair, and finishing at the lighter hair so that it develops for less time, or mix up a separate dye in dark natural blonde (6N), for the lighter roots instead if need be. Whatever you find easiest will work but there's no guarantee it will be all perfectly the same colour with either method without going a lot darker to cover everything with the same shade.

    • Gigi Fleming profile image

      Gigi Fleming 21 months ago from Plano, Texas

      Hi Maffew!

      So I've been dyeing my hair Magenta for the last year and recently dyed it some dark plum color but alas I am bored once again lol I would like to dye it light brown if possible. I've already gone to Sallys and the lady told me to get Colorfix and a light ash toner then a tube of 7g. I'm a little bit hesitant to go through with it because I dont want to subject my hair to more punishment than I have to. Your input would be greatly appreciated :)

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Gigi,

      Is the plum colour permanent? The Colorfix is a dye remover and it will remove permanent dye. It won't work on other kinds of dye though. With the amount of times you've coloured your hair though, it may not be possible for it to remove enough to get it light brown.

      Still, definitely use the dye remover first if you're dealing with permanent dye. It's not damaging and will make the rest of the removal easier. If it gets your hair to a bright orange colour, this can then be toned with light ash brown to neutralise the orange and produce a natural looking brown shade.

      If you have violet tones leftover, this is when you'd need to use a gold shade, as yellow neutralises violet. If this is the case, you'll notice a soft pinkish purple tone even if the ash completely neutralises the orange. Apply the 7G and leave that for just long enough to counteract the violet if you need to.

      Finally, this is all dependent on your hair being light enough after using the dye remover. If it is darker than light brown, it will need to be lightly bleached first to get it light enough before you can finish the colour. Any unwanted colour can be neutralised with toning, but if it is still too dark, it will never be light brown because toning doesn't lighten your hair. The colour it looks and how dark it is are two separate qualities.

    • Gigi Fleming profile image

      Gigi Fleming 21 months ago from Plano, Texas

      Hi Maffew!

      So after a whole day of doing hair, I finally got the color that I wanted. Your advice helped me out tremendously! Thank you so much!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Gigi, that's great that your colour has turned out nice! I'm glad you found the advice helpful; feel free to come back and ask any other questions you may have next time you plan a new colour if you need any more help.

    • Shayna 21 months ago

      Hello Maffew, love the article, so much good advice! My hair is a range of yellow to orange, I've included a picture (my ends are still wet, I slept with a masque from It's a Ten because my hair was so damaged after the last bleaching: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm15/Shayna_Mar...

      I want to go out in public and my hair will not take any more bleaching! I only have access to Wella Color Charm and other products that can be purchased at Sally's, what is the lightest/brightest shade/tone I can use on my hair? Will I have to go darker than a level 6 because of my ends?

      Thanks!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Shayna,

      The lightest shade that would probably have any effect is an 8A, but it's still going to be very warm at that level. You'll likely need a 7A for a more neutral result, or a 6A for more thorough toning and a cooler result. It also has a lot to do with how porous your hair is; with porosity increasing the more it is bleached. You'd be better off trying an 8A first to judge how your hair reacts and whether it is going to absorb a lot more colour than expected. This will help prevent it from ending up really dark. The ends are going to look warmer because they are darker. Not necessarily too problematic unless it bothers you.

      Overall though, it looks somewhere between dark blonde to light brown, and it may be closer to light brown when properly toned, so blonde might not be an option if it can't withstand another bleaching. In any case, it can be corrected to a nice colour and it will still be lighter than when you started, so your efforts aren't all in vain.

    • Ginger Macfarlan profile image

      Ginger Macfarlan 21 months ago from Siloam Springs, Arkansas

      Hi Maffew,

      You're incredibly patient and thorough, thank you for sharing your knowledge! I've learned so much reading through all these comments.

      My hair backstory: my natural hair is a light brown, somewhere between a 4 and 5, very ashy. I've been dyeing it red for ages but went blonde last year, using a color stripper and then lifting it to what I think was a level 8 with 40 volume developer, if I remember correctly. It was pretty brassy, so I added in straight-bleach highlights (lifting to probably a 10 or 11) and then toned it all over. The dyed sections were still more gold than what I preferred, but it was livable. Since then, the highlights have grown out quite a bit, and rather than add more in, I've just continued lifting the roots as they grow in. I've been lifting with a mix of Wella 9A and 9N, using 40 volume developer.

      Eventually, I'm aiming to let my hair gracefully grow out into a natural sort of balayage look, shifting to a darker color each root application, but now that the bleached highlights have grown out so much, my ultra-gold roots are really noticeable, and I can't grow out my ashy natural color until I deal with them.

      I was trying to use the Wella T18 toner with 20 volume developer on my roots, but it wasn't having an effect. I *finally* figured out recently that I needed a bluer base, so I switched to the T14 toner with 20 volume, which...helped, somewhat. I thought maybe I hadn't left it on long enough, so I tried again tonight with no change.

      Based on what I'm reading, it sounds like one possible solution would be to go over the roots with just a Wella 9A color. What I can't figure out is why the Color Charm toners aren't having much of an effect, given that my hair should be lifted to a level 9. Looking at the color chart on your bleaching page, I'm wondering if my hair hasn't actually been lifted to a true level 9? The roots are very gold, not orange exactly, but not lemon-yellow, which would put it at a level 7 or 8 according to the chart.

      Another theory is product buildup--I try to chemically process when I haven't washed my hair for awhile so my scalp won't be squeaky-clean and sensitive, but I use dry shampoo and hairspray in between washes.

      Would you recommend trying the Color Charm one more time, in a T14 again or maybe in a different shade? Or would it be better to go over the roots with the Wella 9A? And--thoughts on dyeing clean vs. dirty hair?

      My apologies for this incredibly lengthy comment! I'm so grateful for your help!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Ginger,

      I'm glad you've found the article and comment section helpful.

      This is actually a common problem that a lot of people have mentioned. Wella's Color Charm toners are mostly designed for very light hair. Take the T18 for example. This toner is a pastel violet colour and it is meant to be applied to pale yellow hair. When hair is at the pale yellow stage, it is about the colour of the flesh of a banana. It is light to the point that it almost looks white, and the feint violet pigment of the T18 toner counteracts the remaining yellow so that it does end up white to silvery.

      On darker hair though, this feint violet tone produces very little effect. It's the same sort of scenario for T14. T28 is designed to be used on yellow hair, and this is the darkest shade out of all of the 'T' shades.

      As for the level of your hair, level 1 is black and level 10 is near-white, This is the system that professional hair dye brands use and it's part of the international colour code. Supermarket brands may stretch the level system out, and this doesn't mean that a level 11 is lighter, but rather that they have more 'steps' in between black and white. The level 11 in a brand like this is equivalent to a level 10 in the regular system.

      Then you have high lift dyes, which are very different to other dyes and are thus given a unique code like 11, 12, 100, 1000, ultra, mega, or something else along this line to let people know it is a high lift. These don't have a level, and that's why they're outside the level system. Over time, all of this has lead to a lot of confusion regarding levels so don't worry too much if you're not entirely sure what it all means. It's best to match the level of your hair to the level system of the dye brand you're using to choose the appropriate shade, and Wella Koleston and Wella Color Charm will both correspond to the chart here.

      As for toning your hair, definitely use the 9A for soft toning. It's going to produce a much more noticeable effect than the T18 and take it closer to a neutral blonde. For a cooler, ashier result on level 7 hair though, you'll need 8A or a mix of 9A and 8A.

      In regards to whether you should dye clean or dirty hair, it is always better to apply to unwashed hair when using permanent dye or bleach. There is an acidic layer called the acid mantle that naturally coats your skin and protects it from infections and environmental irritation, as well as regulates your skin pH. This is destroyed after shampooing, leaving your scalp much more susceptible to chemical burns and dryness until it builds back up. Shampooing also strips out natural oil which moisturises your hair and this leaves your hair itself more prone to dryness, becoming brittle during the chemical process and leading to more damage as the hair becomes weaker.

    • Leah 21 months ago

      Hi, I'm a natural blonde, or atleast was. Dyed my hair blur black for a couple or years and all was well and good. Unfortunately a few months ago I decided to try a purple shade and since then I've had this red/brown tone in my hair that just wont leave me alone. Even redying black left me with a red tinge after a couple of weeks. Finally got sick of it and decided to try to remove it. Used a product called colour b4 - apparently can use this up to 3 times hair allowing - its removed all my blue black but left me a kinda warm red chestnut colour (with a dark red underneath)

      I don't want to go back to blonde. What id like is black underneath and some semi perm blue on top (manic panic)

      What I'm wondering is can I use the colour b4 stuff again? And will it make any difference? Have a couple of bleach kits coming... Should I wait for them?

      Sorry, I'm a bit lost and didn't realise it was all this complicated. I just wanted the red shadow gone and now everything so much worse.

      Thanks for any advice you can offer. Seems like I'm a bit different to the comments I've read so I cant use any as an example.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Leah,

      The product you used is called dye remover. This reverses the chemical reaction that makes permanent dye permanent, breaking it back down into its original form so that it can be washed out with shampoo.

      It's not completely effective though. In cases where you've just applied a dye and you then use a remover, most, if not all of the dye will generally be able to be washed out; even when it is black dye. If you've dyed your hair many times or the colour has been in your hair for a long time though, it becomes much less effective as there is too much dye buildup.

      As for whether it will work again, probably not given the buildup of black dye, or at least not to any great extent; but it doesn't cause any damage so it's worth a try if you're not in a rush to complete the colour. Following that, bleach the hair that you'd like to dye blue. Unless you're using a blue dye that is nearly black, it won't be dark enough to cover over that red without further lightening.

      In any case, the more orange tone in your hair, the duller the blue will look because blue and orange are complementary colours. Blue neutralises orange, and orange neutralises blue. In balance they are a neutral shade that is grey. This is in comparison to colours that mix. Ie, if you mixed two primary colours like red and blue, it produces a new colour: purple. You'll see this happen if you have a lot of red tone present before applying your blue dye, which will shift it to more of a purple shade instead.

      As for the areas that you want black, I'd recommend applying blue-black dye to those areas. This will ensure that the red tone doesn't persist through to the black colour again as the strong cool tone will neutralise it.

    • Claire93 21 months ago

      Hi,

      My natural hair is 5-6, and I've bleached it to 6-7. It's brassy. I want to try an igora mousse, is ash right? What number should I get? I've seen you recommend 8.1 mousse to a few people, but my hair is a tiny bit darker and looks orange in the undertones. It's closer to Orange-red than orange-yellow, but it's pretty much solid orange. Please help!!

      (At the darkest part of my hair, it's still at a 5-6, and this is where the brassiness is worst)

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Claire,

      Igora 8-1 is the darkest ash blonde shade in the mousse and whilst you can use that you won't notice much effect on the darker areas. Other than that you'd be looking at using a neutral tone instead, which is -0. Eg, 7-0 (Or 6-0 on the darkest areas if necessary). Whilst this will be darker and thus cover better, the neutral tone doesn't tone as effectively as an ash tone.

      Overall, if you use a demi-permanent dye like Wella Color Touch 8/81, that will give you the best colour result, and it lasts longer as well without being completely permanent. It's also primarily blue-based, so it's more effective for that strong orange colour. (If you're wondering why I'm recommending this in 8 whilst the mousse examples above are in 7, it's because mousse is less intense than mixed dyes, and they are applied to wet hair, which further dilutes down the colour).

    • Meg parson 21 months ago

      Hi I am 15 years old and I dyed my hair for the first time two days ago.. My natural hair is a dark brown so I asked for a permanent lighter shade of brown. Now my hair looks orange on the top and its gross. I like the bottom hair color but I want my whole hair to be that color and not the orange on top

    • Claire93 21 months ago

      Thank you!

    • Claire93 21 months ago

      Will the wella 8-81 make my hair super light like the photos online? I want it to stay dark blonde. Just not brassy. Can I use the toner alone?

      Do I need to buy developer? What's that? And what one do I get?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Meg,

      If it was only dye that was used on your hair (No bleach used to pre-lighten first), then the most likely reason this happened is that the areas that toned properly lightened more effectively. The areas that are orange didn't lighten as well, so less warmth was stripped out there. This results in the cool tone of the dye not being strong enough to tone it properly.

      To tone this and get rid of the excess warmth, apply a light ash brown. Preferably in demi-permanent or semi-permanent. This will neutralise the orange and even up the tone.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Claire,

      Wella Color Touch is a demi-permanent line and this won't lighten hair. The pictures you see online are pictures of the actual colour at level 8, rather than the way it will look when applied to your hair. In your case, the cool tone in the dye will neutralise a lot of the warmth, but it will still be dark blonde.

      For developer, Color Touch is mixed with Wella 1.9%, which is a very weak developer used to activate the colour and allow it to process. You can also use 7 vol from a different developer brand if you prefer, or dilute down a stronger developer if there is nothing else available to you.

    • Claire 21 months ago

      So the developer 1.9% is already in the color touch, and I don't need to purchase it? Correct?

    • Claire 21 months ago

      So I don't need to purchase developer separately? The 1.9% is already in the color touch, and because I don't want to lighten, no additional purchases are necessary? (I already ordered both the wella 8-81 and mousse in 8-1, as you suggested)

      Thank you for your help!!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Claire,

      No, unfortunately you need to add the developer to the dye. Developer starts a chemical reaction, so it needs to be added. It is this chemical reaction that forms the dye pigment and 'sets it' into your hair and if it was mixed in, the dye would already be formed before application and couldn't actually penetrate your hair (The molecules are too large to enter the hair shaft after being developed. Not to mention that the dye tube would expand and explode because the reaction releases large volumes of oxygen.

      Good luck with the colour and sorry for any confusion with the developer. Let me know if you have any trouble with the toning.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 21 months ago

      Hi Mathew.. Once again I need your help, please :-) I decided to dye a test strand and see what the color looked like before doing my whole head. If you would be so kind as to go here http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/8122009sarah/lib... , and look at the pictures I had my husband take. Once again if you look at the collage its the picture on the bottom left that has the colour I'm aiming for. I used 2 parts 7sb and 1 part 7b as the directions said, but I think it looks to dark. I was thinking about doing my bottom hair 1 shade darker than the top, so I can go ahead and use this colour for the bottom. In your opinion to better match the colour in the picture do you think I should go with the 8sb and 8b on my top to better match her hair colour??? Really want to try and get it as close as possible. Thanks again Mathew,

      Sarah

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 21 months ago

      seems to me that her hair has a tad bit of gold in it.. Let me know what you think.. The stylist that did her colour noted that it was applied to a starting level 7. hope that make sense. Thanks, Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      It does look a little darker, but it can be hard to tell with photos because of the effect that lighting can have. Your hair can also be more porous after bleaching and this will result in colours you apply turning out somewhat darker. Best idea is to base it off what you prefer. If you like the colour as is, feel free to go with that, even though it's slightly different from the picture, otherwise you can definitely use the lighter shades.

      Keep in mind that if you do use the level 8 shades though, the colour is weaker than a level 7 so it may give a closer approximation to the picture by preserving a little more gold tone too (It won't tone as strongly or be as silvery if applied on the same base). If using the level 7 dyes on the other hand, you may want to add a little gold in to the mix to get closer to what you want.

      With dye, the colour you get is a result of the colour you are adding, plus whatever colour is already in your hair, so there is always the chance that a specific mixture is going to turn out slightly differently on different people, even if the starting level is the same. It can be due to porosity, the tones present in your hair, or even a reaction with traces of other dyes that had been applied previously. The key is to look at how the mixture works for you and adjust it to get exactly what you want.

    • helen 21 months ago

      Hi! I have had red hair, more like a deep cherry color, and a few monts ago i decided to dye it to a sandy blond color. So my hairdresser made it light brown but it still had warm tones in it. A few weeks ago i tried to get the color i want so i tried Loreal Feria Wild Ombre Intense and my hair got very orange so i put on a ash blonde the day after to tone down the orange color and it worked but it still got warm tones and it's going back to orange again. I'm very tired of thees warm tones that i can't get out of my hair. What should i do to reach the color i want?

    • DeeDee 21 months ago

      Thanks so much for your response - it makes complete sense. To be honest, darker would be great. I'm very cool...pale pink skin and light blue/green eyes so richer brunettes work well for me. My orange has faded to about a level 7, so I'm ready to try to cover it. If you've got a Wella Koleston rec, I can get that or Goldwell. I'd rather err on the side of darker than going too light and either not hiding the orange or just being too drab. Thanks for the suggestion on the roots...I also have to watch my ends as they are a little porous.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi Helen,

      To get it lighter you'll need to bleach it first. If it's light brown, bleaching one level will take it to dark blonde. 2 levels of lift leads to a medium blonde colour. Of course, it is going to look very orange at first because of the underlying pigment that is revealed during lightening, as well as the red dye in your hair.

      These warm tones are corrected by toning, but to eliminate all of the red tone, you will need to let it lighten a little further than your desired colour. This is because toning adds cool pigment, darkening it slightly. By lifting further than desired before toning, this ensures that the colour it ends up after toning is what you actually want. Eg, if you were to add enough tone to neutralise the remaining warm tone in your current light brown hair, just as an example of what happens, this would darken it more towards a medium brown because of the amount of cool tone that needs to be added.

      One note though. No matter what you do, all dye fades over time. You can slow this fading down but eventually any ash dye you apply to tone out warmth will fade to the point that the warmth becomes noticeable again. Once you get it blonde though, a strong purple shampoo may be enough to keep it looking toned without needing to recolour it.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 21 months ago

      Hi DeeDee,

      In that case, definitely go with the level 5 dye instead of level 6. It will neutralise more effectively and you'll be looking at more of a light brown result. If you use 5/1 in Koleston, this should remove just about all of the red tone. For a warmer result mix the 5/1 half and half with 5/0. This will give it more depth and result in something closer to a light chocolate brown, but more of the red tone is retained as a soft tone in the new colour. If you prefer Goldwell, the corresponding shades in that brand are 5A and 5N. I'm not overly familiar with the Goldwell brand though so I can't give much more recommendation on it. They do have nice colours and a lot of brand prestige however.

      Also, with those porous areas, it can help to use a porosity equaliser spray first. This is a protein product that will strengthen the hair and help stop porous areas from absorbing too much colour, but applying to mid-lengths first will also work, either as a technique by itself or in combination with the equaliser if the ends are very porous.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 20 months ago

      Hi Mathew, I was wondering if you could tell me about how much of the gold mix you would add if you were going to add it to a color, I just got it in today but don't want to add to much. Just wanted a professional opinion..

      Thanks, Sarah

    • LG 20 months ago

      Hi, my hair was a faded dark brown with lots of red tones in the sun, so I used Loreal 8 level lightening dye earlier today and the top where my hair was lighter is yellow and the ends are a light brown/orange/auburn. I think tomorrow I'll use Igora Royal 8.1 with a 10 vol to try to cancel out the orangey tones? I looked at the colour chart and the 8.1 looks really dark, google the chart and you'll see what I mean. do you think that will make my hair a really ashy light brown/dark dark ash blonde?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      Is that 7G/8G or Goldwell's G-Mix? If you're going with the level 8 shades you may want to hold off on adding any gold because they will tone your hair less than the level 7 shades and more gold will remain in your hair without the need to add it. Otherwise, add about 10 - 20 percent gold to the 7's; just enough to add a subtle tone and soften the ash tones.

      If you're using the gold mix, add about 5 ml or less to 40 ml of colour to be on the safe side. I'm not familiar with Goldwell's intensifiers, but if it's similar to those of other brands, a little will go a long way.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi LG,

      Igora Royal is true to level, but ash shades do tend to be a little darker than other shades at the same level. This is necessary to actually counteract warmth. They don't turn out anywhere near as dark as in the swatches though. Those are more of a guideline to the colour present in the dye rather than how it will actually turn out.

      In any case, the 8.1 is an excellent choice for toning your darker hair, whereas the 9.1 is too weak and is more predominately violet-toned, which isn't going to properly tone orange out. Just don't put it on your lighter yellow hair because it will turn grey to blue-grey.

    • Christine Hoffman 20 months ago

      Thanks so much for spelling it out for me with simple directions and actual colors to buy (Light Ash Brown to tone orange hair)! You saved my haircolor. I went from a medium mahogany brown to oragnge while attempting some "honey" highlights out of a box at home. And, just like you said, when I tried to dump a golden blonde on it to fix it, NOTHING HAPPENED! I then bought light ash brown, (like you said!) and fixed it 99%. THANK YOU!!!

    • LG 20 months ago

      Thank you! I'll do the 8.1 today, i'm hoping 10 vol is enough but i do have 20 vol if 10 isn't strong enough. I've heard that over time the orange will start peeking through the ash. Will consistently (bi-monthly or so) using ash dyes completely neutralise the orange or only temporarily tone it out? Is bleaching hair yellow/white then only using ash tones the orange way to never have orange/red tones? Your website is actually the most helpful thing ever :)

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Christine,

      It's great to hear that your colour has turned out good and you've been able to correct it.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi LG,

      No problem.

      10 vol is fine for toning because you don't need lightening. The orange will start coming back over time, but this is because the colour will fade. Hair contains all three primary colours: blue, red, and yellow, and it is the balance of these colours that gives the colour you actually see.

      When you lighten hair, the natural pigment is oxidised, which causes the molecules to become colourless. Blue tone goes first, and this reveals the red and yellow tones. Eventually as you reach blonde, the red is mostly gone and yellow tone is more dominant.

      When you tone the warmth out, you are doing this by adding cool tone back into your hair in the form of dye, but unlike your natural pigment, the dye will fade and some of it breaks down and washes out even if permanent dye is used. This means the warm tones are revealed again as the balance of colour changes. However, it's impossible to tell exactly how soon this will happen, and whilst the colour will fade, it won't go back to a strong orange tone again. The warmth will be more subtle.

      If you need to, you can always use Igora Mousse to maintain the tone. This is a semi-permanent product and you can use the same 8.1 shade in this after shampooing to add more ash tone as often as needed without damage.

    • LG 20 months ago

      Hi again. :) I think my hair was too orange to properly turn ashy.

      http://heylittlelux.tumblr.com/post/118112567454

      my stupid orange hair on the left (it actually looks light brown/ashier in person maybe the lights in here are yellow) and the colour I want to go on the right. Are any of the Igora mousses close to the colour on the right? The 5-0 light brown looks okay but i want it to be really ashy and i don't know if that'd cover my orange.

      Or to get from the colour I am now to the colour I want, would I have to bleach bath my hair yellow/white then use a permanent ash colour? Igora is easy for me to get but I don't know which colours to buy and as I dyed my hair twice in 2 days I'm scared to dye it again for a little while. Sorry for so many questions!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi LG,

      8-1 is the darkest ash in the mousse range. You can use a -0 shade, but because this is more of a neutral tone, it is better at darkening than it is at toning because it adds balanced colour that is neither overly warm or cool.

      It's hard to tell how much warmth is left in your hair with that photo. It also looks about the same depth, but the lighting could cause it to look lighter or darker than it really is. If you're satisfied with how light it is, you don't need to lighten it any further.

      As for the warmth, if there's just a little, you can tone it with Igora Royal 7-1. It's a level darker and will neutralise more orange tone. If there's quite a bit of orange though, you may want to use 6-1 instead.

      Those two shades above are permanent dye, but if you're worried about the condition of your hair, you can always use the same shades in semi-permanent or demi-permanent dye. If you want to use Igora though, you'll need to mix shades as there is no 7-1 or 6-1 in demi-permanent. Mixing Igora Viviance 9-1 and 5-1 in equal amounts will approximate a 7-1 (Albeit with a slightly more blueish-green ash base from the 5-1, but this will work well to counter the orange by cutting down on more red tone).

      Increasing the amount of 5-1 compared to 9-1 will take it closer to a 6, whilst the opposite mix will take it closer to an 8.

      Alternatively, Goldwell does make a semi-permanent mousse in 6A. This is non-damaging and conditioning like Igora mousses.

    • Annie 20 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      Its Annie again. I'm back with my roots (black hair). Recap- I bleached my hair out evenly and used Wella charm 5A. I have black roots about 1 1/2 inches now and am wondering what is the best method to touch up. I might need to double process as I'm going with 5A Wella charm. If so any tips and advise would be greatly appreciated. Do I use 20Vol with the bleach? (im thinking of using the Wella Charm bleach packets) and also do I color right after washing out bleach? If so do I use 20 or 30 vol with the 5A color. Also how is the best way to touch up roots without bleaching out previously colored hair. I always find that step so tricky.

      Thanks for your time,

      Annie

    • Lucy 20 months ago

      Just to say thanks so much for all this helpful information - I had a complete disaster yesterday when I panicked and took off bleach too soon, leaving me with a startling orange ombre against my natural(ish) dark brown hair. Read through this last night and managed to tone it to a lovely mid ash brown today. Thanks so much for helping me avoid an emergency bob! :)

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Annie,

      Use 20 vol with the Color Charm bleach. You don't need anything stronger, and using a stronger developer will cause a lot of irritation on-scalp. Bleach to light orange and then tone with the 5A mixed with 10 vol developer (Or 20 vol developer if you need a little more lightening).

      You can colour immediately after bleaching. The only problem here is that the colour can end up slightly more intense as your hair is more porous right after bleaching. In most cases this won't be a problem and you can adjust for it by using a slightly lighter shade, but you're fine to wait a few days for everything to balance out first.

      The easiest way to apply to roots only is to section everything out and work by brush. Take flat sections of hair and hold them taut in one hand while you apply from root to the line of demarcation where your previous colour starts. Getting this neat and tidy is mostly just practice and there's not much you can do to improve your technique other than to do it over and over again. You could always try it with conditioner a few times until you perfect your application. The faster and more accurate you are, the better the end result will be.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Lucy,

      That's great that you were able to fix the colour. I'm glad you found the article helpful.

    • LQ 20 months ago

      Hello, here is a little history for my hair. My natural color is Light Ash Brown. and I have been coloring my hair for a while now. My hair was a Dark brown with red to orange color through it. I wanted to try and get rid of it. So, I used OOPs. A big mistake. Would not recommend that to anyone. My hair turned a bright orange. So I put Nice and Easy Light Ash Brown. And now my hair has even more orange color than ever and Brighter. Please help. I would like to get it back to Light Ash Brown.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi LQ,

      The Color Oops is a dye remover; it breaks down permanent dye. When you use dye remover, the result is warm because it removes the dye that is forming the colour you see and reveals the underlying pigment. You follow that up by neutralising with ash to correct the tone.

      Ideally, the ash brown you applied should have resolved the warmth and taken it to more of a light neutral brown, but this didn't happen. I can't say I have much faith in Nice and Easy dyes though. It may have been that your orange hair is darker than you think it is, so using a light brown shade didn't tone it properly. If this was the case, the brighter orange colour can be explained by the fact that whilst the colour wouldn't change much in terms of toning, the peroxide in the dye would lighten it slightly.

      I'd recommend applying light ash brown as a strand test, using a high quality salon brand like Wella Koleston or Igora Royal to test whether it was just the dye you used that was problematic, or whether you need a darker colour. If this doesn't tone, apply medium ash brown instead. The result will be darker than the light brown you want, but you can't do much about that without lightening your hair further first.

      I suspect the dye remover only stripped out a small amount of dye, and this resulted in the removal of the cool tone in your hair. You're likely still close to a dark brown colour in actuality and if you applied enough ash tone to correct the orange colour you're seeing, it would tone back to that.

    • Sheba 20 months ago

      My hair was light brown, yellow, dark brown, light orange (very unnoticeable) so I decided to dye my hair with the Nordic blondest blonde L01++ & it claimed to change your brown to blonde. My sister had used it and it worked. My hair was blonde, orange, yellow, blonde, orange blonde. So I went to this post & it didn't work. I did what you said & dyed it light ash blonde. No it didn't work. Might've lighten my hair up but NOT greatly. I'm now dying my hair back brown, because I don't want to damage my hair. So whoever wants their hair back you have to dye it at least 5-6 of you want a platinum blonde & 4-5 just for blonde. Especially if you have VERY long hair. My hair looks stuffed. & I thought that dying it light ash blonde would work but it won't.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Sheba,

      Applying ash dye won't work to correct hair that is that patchy and so many different colours. You need to base it on the level of your hair. Ash dye one level lighter than the level of your hair will correct the warmth to roughly neutral. Ash dye at level will correct to a cool tone.

      When hair is patchy, selectively lighten darker areas until it is even before toning at all, because darker areas won't be toned by dye that is light enough to properly tone the lighter areas. A dye that is dark enough to tone the darker hair will completely over-tone the lighter hair. Even if you apply different shades in foil to the different areas, which will correct the tone properly, it will remain just as patchy. Level (lightness), and tone (the actual colour), are completely separate.

      Overall, one thing anyone who dyes their hair regularly needs to grasp is that the colour you get is not the colour you apply; it is a combination of whatever is in your hair and what you apply. Take the light ash blonde you applied for example. Light blonde is level 8. Your yellow hair is roughly level 8 depending on what you consider to be yellow, but the rest of the colours in your hair are considerably darker. This dye will have relatively little effect on your hair as a result because there is not enough pigment. Eg, ash tone at level 8 on top of light brown, which is level 5 - the level 5 warmth remains dominant. It needs at least 6A to be affected.

      Lightening is a separate issue. If you're trying to lighten dyed hair with more dye, this is a problem. Dye only effectively removes natural pigment and you'll run into a world of trouble if you keep applying dye on top of dye in an attempt to lighten already dyed hair. All that colour buildup complicates lightening further, leads to patchy results, and damages your hair considerably for the small amount of lift you're getting.

      Toning can't be achieved without an understanding of colour theory, and dyeing dark hair blonde is not something to attempt if you don't understand the basic principles of using hair dye. You can't just throw dye after dye at your hair and expect something to work.

    • Steph 20 months ago

      Hi. I'm hoping to get an answer as soon as possible. My roots are a natural level 2 and colored my hair a leve 4 red violet but after about two months now my hair has faded to a brassy orange tone with dark roots of course. I want get rid of all the red and orange tones in my hair so I can color it a brown color I can achieve without bleaching since I do my hair at home. My option is going medium brown or black but with no red or orange undertones in my hair. Please help. Thank you!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Steph,

      You can neutralise the warmth with ash tone, but keep in mind that adding ash tone to your hair adds depth, so it will be slightly darker as a result. Given that your hair was a level 4 before fading, it is slightly closer to level 5 now and the ash tone added should push it back up to a proper level 4, or maybe a little further towards a level 3.

      There's not much you can do to prevent this darkening because you have to add colour to correct the warmth, so in order to tone it, it will end up darker. An alternative is to bleach wash it to lighten it a little further and then tone, so that the final colour is closer to a medium brown and no net darkening will occur. This also helps with toning because it lifts out more of the dark copper tone, but it does require the use of bleach so you may not be comfortable with that.

      In any case, maintenance of the colour is easy by using medium ash brown dye mixed with 30 vol developer to lighten and tone regrowth as your hair grows. This method can't be used as effectively on your previously dyed hair though as the remaining dye from the red violet colour will prevent it from lightening properly.

      As for black, you can do this by applying a neutral black dye. Warm undertones aren't going to show through this as it's the darkest colour and will cover everything underneath. If you're extra worried though, you can mix a little blue black into the neutral black to add extra cool tone that will ensure proper neutralisation. Any fading will start to show some warmth with either method though and this can't be avoided as the dye washes out and the underlying pigment starts to become visible again.

    • LG 20 months ago

      Hi, i dyed my hair with agree royal 7-1 and my hair is now only slightly orange in bright sunlight, otherwise it's nice and ashy, however it's bit darker than i wanted it to be. Do you think it will fade after a few washes? and my second question is, can i tone my 7-1 hair with the 8-1 mousse or is that a bad idea cause their different shades? Thanks :)

    • LG 20 months ago

      sorry it was meant to say igora royal* dumb autocorrect

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi LG,

      It will fade over time and the colour will lighten as the ash tone fades. This does mean that the orange tone starts to appear more however as it's like an equilibrium. The ash adds in blue tone which balanced with the orange, causes it to look neutral. When this washes out, the orange appears again because the balance is skewed back towards that tone.

      As for the slight orange still appearing, that means you need a little more ash in order to fully neutralise it, which would darken it slightly further again. You'll always notice darkening when toning because you're adding one tone in to balance out another, rather than taking the unwanted tone out. If you wanted it lighter that how it looks when toned, you would need to lighten it by bleach washing it another half a level or so and then tone again. Ideally, before toning your hair, take it to a point where it's lighter than what you actually want. That way when you tone it, it darkens to where you actually want it.

      Finally, it's fine to use the 8-1 mousse. It will tone your hair but the fact that it's a lighter level as well as a mousse, which is used on wet hair, means it is weaker and you'll notice a more delicate toning. It's better for maintaining colour and slowing down fading rather than adding a significant amount of tone to your hair in your situation.

    • cakes 20 months ago

      I have been dying my natural dirty blonde to a dark brown for years. Of course, since it is coming up on summer i decided to go back to blonde. What a process this has been. I bleached my hair yesterday and it turned out orange (which i knew would happen) then i carefully bleached the orange sections again. (I know the first time i only lefr the bleach on for 30 mins) this time i left it on for 40 because i saw it changing to yellow. I use a blue toner to try to tone down the remaining orange. (From blonde brilliance, it is a conditionimg toner

    • cakes 20 months ago

      Now my hair is orange in spots and yellow everywhere else. At this point i do not want to bleach it anymore. I have wella dyes here a 9ng 8ng 7ng and two different developers a 20 volume and 30 volume. Would dying it one of these colors help with covering some of the orange?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Cakes,

      Best idea is to bleach it at least one more time to even it out. You only need a gentle bleach for this and the intention is to only apply to the darker hair and rinse once everything is the same level. This will give the best toning and final colour result. Of course, you by no means have to do this if you don't want to apply anymore bleach; especially if your hair's condition has started to weaken. It's just something to consider as although you can tone it now, you'll still see some patchiness, albeit a different colour.

      As for toning it, an NG tone will take some of the warmth out but it's not an ideal shade to use for this because ash will take out much more warmth. The NG is primarily natural (neutral) in tone, with a secondary gold tone, so overall it's slightly warm, although the natural tone if darker than the hair it is applied to, will cover and soften warmth. If you do use one of these shades, I'd recommend nothing darker than the 8NG as the lighter yellow hair will take more colour. A dark shade, whilst better for toning the orange hair, will have an intense effect on top of the yellow hair.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Joly,

      I'm sorry for the late reply. Hopefully you still have enough time to dye it.

      If your hair is about the level of the picture, you'll generally get good toning without too much darkening by using an ash shade in dark blonde or light brown. This is dependent on how dark your hair is though. Ash neutralises warmth like gold, orange, and red, but it needs to be selected to match the level of your hair to tone properly. A colour that is too dark will turn out very cool and darker than desired, whilst an ash that is too light won't tone properly, or will only slightly soften it.

      If your hair is definitely like in the picture, feel free to use a dark ash blonde for softer toning, or a light ash brown for heavier toning to a cooler result. If in doubt at any point, start with dark ash blonde, apply to a small section of hair (Either in an inconspicuous area or just cut off a few strands from underneath if that's easier), and use this as a strand test to see how well it tones. If there is no change in colour, go darker (Dark ash blonde > Light ash brown > Medium ash brown). If it's too dark or ashy, go lighter for the colour you use (Dark ash blonde > Medium ash blonde > Light ash blonde).

      To mix the dye, yes you do need to use developer in any permanent dye, as well as most demi-permanent dyes. Box dyes contain developer pre-measured in the shake bottle included, whereas salon dyes like Wella Koleston require you to choose and measure it yourself. A salon dye is a better choice for you because you only want to use the dye to tone your hair. Box dyes often contain higher strengths of developer in light brown or blonde colours to drive the lightening, but this causes more damage, which you should avoid when you don't need this lightening.

      To use dyes like Wella Koleston, take the shade you want and mix it with 10 vol developer in the ratio for the brand you're using. For Koleston, the mixing ratio is 1:1, so for whatever amount of dye you use, add the same quantity of developer. Eg 30 grams of dye should be mixed with 30 grams of developer in this situation.

    • Tee 20 months ago

      Hello,

      My hair is a medium blonde and I just went to the hairdresser to make it a lighter blonde. I asked for a shade that was cool and not warm. I have come back and my hair is almost orange! It is awful.

      Considering I have medium blonde hair to start with, if I use a toner will it still make my hair a light brown? What option should I go with?

      Thanks,

      Appreciate the help.

    • Missy 20 months ago

      Sorry about the testing... I wasn't sure if I had to make a new account or something. :)

      Actually I hope this is just a quick question as you've done an amazing job of answering all those before me.

      I have light -medium brown hair with quite a lot of grey. I impulsively dyed my hair with a semi-permanent (8 wash) box dye tonight (schwartzkopf natural brown) and well, my grey hair has turned a weird orangey yellow colour. I wouldn't care too much but I have to go to my granny's funeral in 2 days and I'd like to do a quick fix if possible. Should I just put another 8 wash over it in dark brown or is there a better option? I'm happy to let it wear/wash out, as long as I look half decent in 2 days!

      If you're able to advise me I'd be most grateful.

      :) thanks!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Tee,

      That's strange that you're seeing orange tones after having medium blonde hair lightened. Had your hair been dyed with darker or red colours before you dyed it medium blonde? That's the only sort of circumstance where you would normally still be seeing so much orange tone at this level. Although if your hair is naturally red, it can look orange at lighter levels sometimes. For the most part, medium blonde has a base of gold, so it won't look orange if lightened unless either of the above scenarios are true, or a copper shade was used during toning for some reason.

      As for fixing it, you need to work out what level it is now after the lightening. If it was originally medium blonde, it was a level 7, so it should be lighter than that now; ie, consider level 8 - 9 as a possibility. This all hinges on that medium blonde designation being accurate though. In any case, have a look at the level chart in one of my other articles here: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-bleach-hair...

      Judge the level as accurately as you can, then either use an ash shade one level lighter than this for a neutral to slightly cool correction, or ash at the same level for a very cool result. You can also use demi-permanent or semi-permanent dye, apply, and rinse as soon as you like the tone if you find that easier. (As an example, say your hair is approximately level 8, you would tone with either 9A for a softer tone, or 8A for more of a strong ash result).

      If you want to go to light brown instead however, this is a different process. Let me know if that's the case.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 20 months ago

      Hi Missy,

      This happens because the grey hair is devoid of pigment, so whatever tone is more dominant in the dye will end up very intense on grey hair. For example, ash can look blue to green, whilst a warm or even neutral brown colour can look gold, coppery, or even red because of the imbalance in tones. Easiest and quickest way to fix this is to tone it to correct the warmth temporarily. Because it's a semi-permanent dye, it will wash out over time so it's not going to be a problem that needs a more drastic fix.

      To do this, take an ash shade 1 - 2 levels lighter than the orange hair, apply this to those areas, and leave until it has neutralised enough. Ideally, you want to soften the warmth rather than remove it entirely or else it will look dark grey instead. Toning it just enough to take most of the warmth out will result in more of a neutral brown rather than flat ash. Once this occurs and you like the colour, rinse the dye out.

      Now, as the fix is temporary just like the problem, this ash tone will wash out as well. The idea here is that you will tone it to balance out the colour so that you can be happy with the way your hair looks at the funeral, and after that I'd recommend washing it with clarifying shampoo to remove the semi-permanent dye. If there is some gold or copper tone that seems to cling to the hair even after several washes, which can sometimes happen, you can keep this at bay by using a good blue-violet shampoo like De Lorenzo Silver, but you should only use it on the warmth and not on any regular grey hair as this can start to look blueish.

    • Mrukh 19 months ago

      I dont .know .where my question went...

      Im natural 4... bleached my hair twice.. used violet shampoo on my highlights. To get silver platinum colour. But invain.

      Plz help...

    • Mrukh 19 months ago

      Sorry Maffew.. .. I subitted my questionhere again... thank u so much.. i got my answer ...

      I have seen the picture u attaced to get pale yellow... and then put 9. 1 or 9 A to get silver... to get that pale yellow.. how many times .. i can bleach .. safely? How much developer strength to be used each time?

      My friend has 80% grey hair.. she has been using wella koleston natral 3.. now wants to get medium brown hair natural 4 ,with ash blonde highlights 8.1 shade...

      How to do that.. which colour to use for her base to cover grey as well to get medium brown colour natural 4, and how to get ash blonde highlights?

    • Missy 19 months ago

      Thankyou so much for your help! It all turned out ok. :) I'm really glad I found this page and all your very comprehensive info! Better luck next time hopefully! Have a great day!

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 19 months ago

      Hi Mathew, once again I need your help. I thought I was ready to dye my hair. Once again I thought I should do a test strand. I did use a protein filler, but had the same thing happen. The top of my hair sucks in the color, while the length of my hair doesn't and turns out lighter. It is a pretty color but I prefer it be the same level of color. Should I put the color on my lengths first? What do you think? Thanks again Mathew, Sarah

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 19 months ago

      Hi Mathew, I was wondering if you would mind going here http://www.goldwell.us/fileadmin/content/US/en_US/... and look at chapter 12, there is a short cut logo to get you there and tell me what pre-pigmentation I should use to get the color to take in my lengths. I think you would also find this info very interesting for yourself as well. My color I am using is 7B and 7SB to look at on the chart they have. Hopefully this will help. Thanks again Mathew... Sarah

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 19 months ago

      Hi, its me again, sorry. when I look at the chart, I don't know if it's talking about a mix or should I get a level with that color in it? I already have a gold mix and I have the p mix, so the only one I don't have is the N. It shows GN for the 7B and it shows P for the 7SB, this is where I need your help. Also can you please explain to me how to mix this and apply it to my hair. It said something about mixing with distilled water. It's been 3 long months for me so I am anxiously wanting to get my hair dyed. I have been stuck in my house for ever.. According to their level chart I did go to far with pulling the color out of my hair. My hair is a very light yellow, 1 part looks almost white in the back. I kept reading about the horror story's of orange so I thought I should get it all out and now it won't take the full color. The last strand I tested looked good down to my chin and then it dropped off to a light beige blond. Looks like 1 of the colors in Jennifer Aniston hair, looks pretty but does not match the color I'm putting in my hair. Thanks again Mathew, I will make myself stay away until I hear from you.. Thanks, Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Mrukh,

      Best practice is to fill the grey hair first using a red protein filler and then apply the brown shade. Otherwise, if you use a natural tone like 44/0 in Wella Koleston, this is a very good dye for colouring grey hair without ending up with results that are too ashy or don't darken and hold properly. The double 4 as the level number is a double base which is very good on grey hair.

      As for the highlights, this hair needs to be bleached in foil to at least a golden-orange colour for dark blonde, or lighter and more yellowish for a lighter blonde. Then this needs to be toned to ash blonde. Easiest way to do this is to use a semi-permanent ash blonde dye as this doesn't need developer and won't affect the brown colour is applied messily. Otherwise, apply demi or permanent to the lightened areas only, using 10 vol developer.

      As for your own colour, you can bleach as long as your hair is healthy and strong enough to handle it. There's no definite number of processes as every person has different hair. Some stronger, some weaker. Just be careful that you don't take it too far as having a darker shade of blonde, but healthier hair, can often be better than having platinum hair that is frizzy and fragile. You can always tone with a darker shade like an 8A to deal with the warmth.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      Apologies for the late reply. Unless I'm looking at the wrong chart, it's recommending 8GB as the filler for either shades, which sounds appropriate as gold is the base tone for the medium blonde level. As you know, I don't have any experience with Goldwell though, so I don't know all the little intricacies of their dye.

      As for the mixing with water, Igora can be used like this too. Distilled water is used because the minerals are removed from it; otherwise it's possible for iron and other minerals in the water to react with the peroxide. Basically, you're just diluting down the dye to make it easy to distribute and allow it to soak into your hair. When you apply the final colour, the developer in this will activate the filler at the same time the dye is applied so that both develop.

      Alternatively, you can use intensifiers/concentrates as fillers with most brands, but this can vary. It's the same sort of scenario: mix with 10 vol developer or water and apply first, in which case you would use the gold mix in Goldwell. I'd recommend going with their chart for the best results though, as concentrates don't have a level and the risk is that a lot of that gold tone will persist into the final colour compared to filling with a dye that has a level and is lighter.

    • Brenda 19 months ago

      Hi. I decided to go from bright red hair (similar to the character Black Widow) to brunette. Since my red color was too bright I decided to use Loreal colorzap (hair color remover) and now part of my hair is blonde and the other part is brown. Haven't dyed it yet... I still don't know which shade to pick. I want a light brown or a medium brown color but I don't know if it would look even. The product that I was going to use is Agebeautiful (I have some gray hairs as well). Please help I don't know what shade or developer to use. Thank you.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Brenda,

      The best way to allow it to darken properly and even out is to use a natural tone as this is balanced with all three primary colours. If you want it cooler or warmer, either mix a little of the equivalent ash shade or a warm shade like a gold or chocolate into the natural to modify the tone.

      For example, for medium brown you would be using medium natural brown (Or medium neutral brown; both terms, natural and neutral are used in different brands). For a cooler result, you can mix about a quarter medium ash brown in. For warmer results, you could mix the same amount of medium chocolate brown in.

      This will also cover the grey hair more effectively than other shades for the same reason that a natural tone darkens and evens out hair as it will replace the missing colour.

    • Jenny 19 months ago

      Hello Meffew,

      I bleached my hair yesterday and it turn out light yellow at the roots, gradually going light orange to dark orange at the ends and it looks horrible. I know I have to bleach it again and work closely on the dark bits and the light orange but I am trying to aim to get to a platinum blonde and then to a grey/silver look. I'm from the UK so what kind of toner would you recommend in order for me to get to a light blonde? Is the silver shampoo good enough to get my hair light blonde? Also is there anything I can do to tone down the bright orange in the meantime before I'm ready to bleach my hair again? I am having to leave the house to go to work in this horrible hair colour :(

      Do you think if I put dark blue semi hair dye to the orange bits would that cancel them out and make my hair lighter?

      I need your help please!!!!!!!!

      Thank you!!!!

    • Jenny 19 months ago

      Do you think a bleach bath would be a good method to take out most out of the Orange without as much damage to my slightly dry hair?

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Jenny,

      As you've worked out, you'll need to focus on lightening the darker areas from this point onward to even it all out and get it all to that lighter level where the roots are. Toning doesn't lighten hair though; in fact, it makes it slightly darker because what is happening isn't that the colour you don't want is being removed, but that a different colour is being added in, which in combination with the unwanted colour, gives a neutral result. This is due to the way light interacts with the pigment. Complementary colours like violet and yellow, or blue and orange are neutral when balanced, whilst a dominance of either starts to become visible as that colour.

      Of course, toning can be used in the meantime to ensure that your hair is presentable and doesn't look bright orange, but keep in mind that you'll still need to continue lightening it separately to finish the colour and take it to blonde. To tone it, use the most temporary dye available to you (Preferably in semi-permanent), as the hardier the dye is, the more difficult it will be to lighten your hair further.

      The shade you use should be ash, either at level or one level lighter. Ash at level will completely correct the warmth, but result in an intense and cool result and significant darkening. Ash at one level lighter will tone closer to neutral / slightly warm. To find the level, look at how dark your hair is on a standard 1 - 10 level chart and then base the level of the dye you use off of this. When you do this, try to look at the depth rather than colour as even hair that is a level 8 can look a very bright orange colour if it was dyed previously, but a level chart will show pale yellow at this stage. If your hair hadn't been dyed previously, the colour can be an accurate indication of level.

      As for the shampoo, your hair is too dark and orange for that still. De Lorenzo silver or cool natural might help reduce the warmth because of the blue tone contained in these shampoos, but it's a poor option compared to using dye at the right level to tone it. Blue semi-permanent dye is an option, but you need to dilute this down into conditioner and test it before applying. If no change occurs during testing, increase the concentration of blue dye to conditioner to make it stronger. If it becomes too grey or starts to turn blueish, decrease the amount of dye before full application.

      Finally, the use of a bleach bath depends on how much colour you need to remove. If you're aiming towards platinum you still have quite a distance to go in terms of lightening and a full bleach is going to be a better option unless your hair is overly damaged or you would rather take the process slower over several weeks / months.

    • joceyluv 19 months ago

      Hi. My hair has faded so much that I started noticing orange in my blonde...is there any shampoo that I can use rather than a toner?

    • Ally 19 months ago

      Hi - Much like everyone else here - I've had a color disaster! Yesterday I died by medium brown virgin hair with a light natural brown box dye. I did my research and was under the assumption that a light natural brown would closely match my natural hair color (as it seems the general consensus is that box dye turns a level darker than advertised) and would cover the 15-20% grays I had. Well my hair turned out a pale orange on top of my head and a red orange in my ponytail. What do I do now? I was thinking of getting a light ASH brown with a 20 developer, but I'm not sure the grays would be covered after fixing the orange. Help!

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Jocey,

      De Lorenzo Silver shampoo is excellent for this because it is concentrated and has a strong blue tone that will counteract orange. Apart from that, look for shampoos that look concentrated enough and have that blue tone because violet shampoos will only work properly on yellow tones.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Ally,

      This happens because when you lighten hair you reveal the warm base tone underneath. In most cases, an ash shade is best used during this process because it will better counteract the warmth whilst it lightens. It's perfectly fine to tone separately though and you can use the light ash brown for this, applying to your hair and then rinsing once it reaches the tone you want.

      As for the greys, has the natural shade filled these in, or do they still look grey? If the natural tone has darkened them prior to toning, this will be fine and the ash shouldn't grab too much. If not, there is always a chance that ash tone will grab to the greys and turn a dark grey to blueish colour. You can get around this by filling first with copper or mixing the ash with natural for the toner.

      Filling with copper may sound strange because you want to get rid of the orange, but what you're actually doing is using it to dye the grey hair. The grey will take on the same orange colour as the rest of your hair and then it will tone evenly once you put ash on top.

    • Not sure 19 months ago

      Hi i went to the salon and had brown hair. I wanted an auburn color with slightly lighter red highlights. The highlights are orange. She bleached it then added color but its orange.. can i put a dark auburn haircolor like loreal preference dark auburn over my whole head to darker it all up to fet rid of the orange?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi 'not sure',

      It's fine to apply a darker colour, but I'd recommend either using professional permanent dye mixed with 10 vol as the developer, OR, demi-permanent / semi-permanent dye, OR, if you only have box dye available, throw out the developer they provide and put your own 10 vol into the shake bottle or a tinting bowl.

      The reason for this is that box dyes are a one size fits all approach to hair colour and people use them with the intention of lightening, darkening, and toning hair. This means they will often have at least 20 vol developer, and this strength of developer can cause noticeable lightening and warmth to be revealed if applied to all your hair. Applying to the highlights only will avoid this, but that would require you to apply in foils.

      In general, permanent dye isn't the best option overall for this kind of colour as you're trying to only colour highlights. What happens is that even if used with 10 vol, which is the weakest developer that will still create a permanent result, there is still the potential for it to lighten your base colour. Best idea is to use semi-permanent dye, or at least demi-permanent dye to colour it because the semi won't lighten at all, and any lightening from the demi is usually neglible.

      Also, with the auburn shade, the problem here is that you're applying warmth to warmth. The way hair colour works is based on the way light reflects off surfaces to create colour. Your hair is a surface and the colours in your hair change the way light interacts with it. Adding a complementary tone neutralises an unwanted tone. Eg, violet tone is used to neutralise unwanted yellow tones in blonde hair. In your hair, you need blue tone to neutralise and thus soften the orange so that it isn't so intense. An auburn dye however, will mostly add more red and copper tone rather than any cool tones, so this just darkens the orange. Best idea here is to mix it as half auburn and half natural / neutral. This will balance it out and give the correct result.

      If you need any clarification on any of this, let me know and I'll explain further. Good luck with your colour!

    • Janelle 19 months ago

      I typed out a ton of explanation on my hair history and then got erased :/ so I'm just going to sum up saying my hair is crazy stubborn. Every stylist I've been to has always underestimated that, and my hair never turns out or lifts enough. I have a crap ton of it, and its really thick. But it's shorter now, not that it matters. Anyways!

      Went to get my roots done where I would get my hair done, and she was supposed to lighten/tone them, but she just used a lighter dye and they ended up darker than they were, and also darker than the rest of my hair, which was two toned with auburn and maybe level 5 brown.

      So I was giving up on getting my hair to the light brown/dark blonde I've been wanting. Guess I should mention it is naturally a level 3-4 dark ash brown.

      I went to Sallys, bought a level 5 brown and dyed all of my hair. It turned to a level 3 dark brown. :(

      Geez. 2 steps back. Whatever.

      A month ago I decided to try again, so I bought Loreal Hicolor in Vanilla Champagne. I've used this product in Red before and it worked great.

      Well this time around, I didn't want to waste time and money again using a 30 developer (what I use for bleach) just for it to do next to nothing.

      So I used a 40 developer and left it on for 2 hours only doing my roots for the last 15 minutes. Yeah. Don't freak too much, I used a great deep conditioner. It lightened to about a level 5 brown with a golden tint, and it felt fine afterward. No breakage.

      Well, I still want it lighter and so I did it again yesterday but this time in Natural Blonde. I didn't want to do the roots at all this time, but it leaked onto parts of the roots :( so now I have parts of my roots that are lighter than the rest of my hair. Which is actually the level I want for the rest of my hair.

      I'm trying to live with it til my next process. Even after this last process, my hair still feels fine/healthy, but I can tell it is a tad more dry.

      I know this product is meant to be used on dark virgin hair, but it's the only thing I can think to use. I can never bleach my hair evenly. Idk if it's because I feel rushed and don't saturate everything, or because I have SO much hair that by the time I'm done with section 3, section 1 is ready to be washed out.

      My question is, can I continue to use Loreal Hicolor to get to my desired level, or should I be using bleach? Are there any tricks to doing it evenly?

      Also, I'd say my hair is about a level 6 but is darker in some parts, I'm guessing those parts are just where it was hard to lift the previous dye. Overall, it has a golden orange color/tint. What can I use to tone this out? At least until my next process.

      Thanks in advance! Idk anyone else who responds to everyone like you do.

    • Janelle 19 months ago

      Sorry, I forgot to mention this. I'm not sure if this is even possible, but along with the orange tint in my hair, the golden tint is almost a greenish golden tint.

      So with that, I have no idea what toner I should get.

      Also, reading through the comments, I see the word "dye" a lot instead of toner, so I'm guessing thats for people who have already reached their desired level?

    • Janelle 19 months ago

      http://s304.photobucket.com/user/Msditzy92/media/M...

      Figured out how to show you. For reference

    • valentine556 19 months ago

      I've had my hair dyed various shades of dark brown, red, even blue black a few times - though naturally I'm a blonde - for years. A little more than a year ago when the color was medium brown I decided to go back to my natural color so my stylist began lifting one or two levels every other appointment (I have fine hair but lots of it, so spacing out this process to limit how much damage is caused has been important since I want to keep as much length as I can). I'm really frustrated with how quickly it goes brassy after an appointment, well except for the 4 inches of virgin regrowth, which has been left alone while I've been figuring out what I want as the final color outcome other than "low maintenance". It was filled with a gray color (not sure what the tone of this gray was) a couple of appointments back on the previously dyed and lightened parts, which kept the brass at bay the longest at least. I want to get a light-medium ash blonde (but avoid the brassy and preferably ash without a greenish cast to it) with a few babylights to blend my ends' color with the regrowth (I think) but how do I tell that to my stylist in "hair salon speak"?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Janelle,

      It's fine to use the dye. The Loreal HiColor is similar to high lift dyes; the main difference being that instead of depositing pigment at blonde levels, it deposits darker colour because it's designed for lightening and dyeing brown hair. As you get lighter, you may want to consider switching to a standard high lift dye so that the colour deposited doesn't overwhelm your hair.

      To get dye or bleach to turn out as evenly as possible, application speed is most important, as well as sectioning. Sectioning your hair in quadrants means that there is only one direction to work in within each section, so you just lift a layer, apply to both sides, and repeat until the entire section is done. If you can apply fairly quickly like this it gives a very even result.

      As for toning, given your previous trouble with colours turning out too dark, I'd recommend using an ash tone at level 7. You can always strand test this first. The green tinge in your hair is likely a result of the darker colour in the HiColor dye as any blue or green tone will grab to the lighter golden areas - blue and yellow mix to create green, whilst green will just mix into yellow tones to make the gold more greenish, so they both have the same effect. Violet, on the other hand, will neutralise the gold.. You can correct this green tinge with a very small amount of red if necessary or just let it fade out. If you end up switching to a blonde high lift or using bleach for the lightening, this shouldn't occur anymore.

      As for the difference between dye and toner, there is no difference. A toner is any dye you use with the intention of adding a specific tone to your hair rather than lightening or darkening. It can be temporary, demi-permanent, permanent, shampoo, conditioner; as long as it's adding tone, it can be used as a toner. This does bring up an important point though: tone with something that isn't permanent if you intend to eventually lighten further, because permanent dye reduces lift.

      Finally, in case you find this useful for future reference, when toning hair you're adding a small amount of colour to change its appearance without significantly darkening it. Colours that neutralise each other are complementary tones. Anything that isn't complementary will mix. Red and green neutralise each other, orange and blue neutralise each other, and yellow and violet will neutralise each other. In this way you can see that if there is a colour you don't want to see, add the colour that neutralises it. If there is a colour that you want to emphasise, add that colour.

      For example, if your hair looks orange, you can neutralise this with blue tone in the form of ash dye. If you hair looked fairly neutral though and you wanted to add a golden tone, you tone using gold. To make things more complicated, if you had over-toned ash hair that looked blue-grey and wanted to get this back to a beige shade, you would use a mixture of copper and gold tone. The copper neutralises the strong blue tinge, whilst the gold tone counteracts the rest of the ash and adds the soft gold needed for a beige shade.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Valentine,

      The way you've phrased it is fine and conveys exactly what you want. Ideally, to prevent a greenish tinge, all that needs to be done is that the toner is adjusted to what tones are present in your hair before toning. When blue or green-based ash is applied to blonde hair that is primarily golden or yellow, this is what most often causes the green appearance, so you can avoid it by manipulating the shade to deal with the warmth whether it looks more golden or has some orange tone left.

      As you've said that your hairdresser has been toning it in-between lightening, this is a good indication of whether they are proficient in toning, because your hair isn't going to be the same tone as it lightens. Gradually, it goes from red, to orange, and finally to yellow (Though this can vary in dyed hair because tones like red from the dye can persist), and a hairdresser that is skilled in toning will know what actual colours make up the shades they use, and which to use on your hair based on the unwanted warmth that is present.

      As for decreasing the appearance of the regrowth, balayage or even foiled highlights can be used for this kind of effect. The aim is to get some lighter colour into the regrowth to break it up. A few thin streaks of lighter hair mixed through the darker colour goes a long way to disperse it and reduce its appearance.

      Fading is largely unavoidable and you'll always see dyes fading out. In the case of most dyes, they're just going to start to look less vibrant and slightly lighter, but the fading of a dye used to tone your hair will result in the warmth coming back. The reason for this is because the warm tones are still there, and it's only the complementary tones from the toner that are preventing them from being visible. If these tones wash out, the warmth is revealed again.

      Ultimately, you may want to consider the use of a good blonde shampoo to keep this toned. Good shampoos are strong enough to keep it toned without using another dye or anything more intensive most of the time. If nothing else though, they will slow down fading by adding violet and blue tone in to counteract the warmth. Which brings up another point, base the shampoo you use on the warm tones present: if you have yellow present, use a violet shampoo. If you have gold or slightly orange hair, use violet-blue. If there is a lot of orange pigment, go for something more intensively blue. Violet corrects yellow, blue corrects orange, and green corrects red - the reverse is also true to correct violet, blue, and green if necessary; it's all about balance. When either of these complementary tones are dominant, they are visible. When balanced, they are neutral.

    • Chelsey 19 months ago

      Hi!

      So I thought it would be really cute to dye the bottom of my hair dark brown and to bleach the top blonde. I originally had darker brown hair with a tint of red so I knew I wasn't going to get a lighter shade of blonde that I wanted. I was advised to add a red/gold additive to the bleach mix to cancel out any orange. Well of course that didn't work and my hair is this nasty orange color and I have a few uneven spots. Ugh. I was scrolling through your page and decided to bleach it again and then tone it out with an ash blonde dye. I was reading online and came across the bleach bath method. You add your bleach, developer, and shampoo. They said it's not as damaging but the process may take longer. What are your thoughts on this? Please help!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 19 months ago

      Hi Chelsey,

      I prefer to recommend a bleach bath where only a small amount of lightening is required, or where dye removal is the goal and other alternatives like dye remover have already been used. The shampoo in the bleach bath dilutes it down so that it's less damaging, but it does lighten less effectively as a result. Unfortunately, the damage from lightening goes hand in hand with the actual lightening itself because the same chemical reaction that lightens your hair is what is damaging the protein that your hair is made out of.

      With that said, you definitely can use a bleach bath to lighten your hair over a longer time period, and it is often going to be better on dyed hair because of the clarifying shampoo, which helps strip out the dye. Also, even though the damage and lightening are two results of the same process, going about it milder and slower does reduce damage because your hair doesn't dry out as much. Dryness causes hair to be brittle, further weakening it during bleaching, so the less dryness you can cause, and the quicker you can reverse it after rinsing the bleach, the better the condition of your hair will be over the long term.

      I also do have an article about preparing and using a bleach bath if you're interested: https://bellatory.com/hair/How-to-do-a-bleach-wash...

      Good luck with the colour and feel free to come back if you run into any problems or have questions.

    • Serene 18 months ago

      Hi I have a friend with strawberry blonde hair, would this still work to get blonde hair??

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Hi Mathew, I am now ready to add the pigment to my hair, but I wanted to ask you some questions first. I went ahead and bought the same colors in the goldwell colorance demi so it won't be so hard on my hair, with the idea to let it heal some more. I tried putting the pravana smoothout in my hair and it washed out the next shampoo. I think it needs color in it, it was like there was nothing in my hair to hold it in, if that makes sense. So my question is after I mix the pigment color, should I add it all over my hair or just the spots that are light banana yellow? If I add it to all of my hair is their a chance I can over pigment? Also, once I go to the permanent dye will I have to add pigment again? I am so ready to just have the color in my hair and then do root touch-ups with the dye and not bleach. I bought some Inoar G Hair keratin treatment for damaged hair, so after I get some color in my hair I can put that in and hopefully get my silky hair back. I thought maybe I would use the demi colorance until the container is empty and then go to the permanent. This is my goal anyway. So please let me know about the pigment and any other idea's that may come to you would be greatly appreciated. Still using the protein treatments. Thanks again Mathew, Sarah

    • Cici 18 months ago

      Hello,

      I had red dye in my hair before I decided to bleach my hair to platinum so I can achieve a cleaner look for pastel hair- Btw, my roots came out a yellow tone since they were my natural hair colour, dark brown- so, when I bleached it, the rest of my hair turned out orange. I look like a lion! Is it possible to get it to the same colour as my roots and get it platinum from there somehow or would I have to dye it a pale blonde colour if I get it to the same color as my roots? I hope this makes sense lol.

      Please help me!

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Mathew, please help.... I added the 8gb pigment in all of my hair except for the top portion about my eye level up. The color came out really good, almost exactly like the model wearing that color just a little bit darker, except the top portion where I didn't add the 8gb came out looking like it had a touch of copper in it especially my roots.. So basicly at the eye level up it gradually gets darker into a light copper color. why is this? The reason I didn't add the pigment to the upper portion was because the directions said to add the pigment where needed. ok, the top portion of my hair was a yellow to gold color because that's the hair I have been lighting my roots, so my thinking was it had a darker yellow color in it and I didn't think it needed any more. The directions for adding the 8gb pigment said you could add the pigment before processing or after processing, but it didn't give the directions for adding it afterwards. Do you know how I do this??? What can I do to get the red out of my roots??? It looks like I have hot roots. I added the color to my roots first so I guess next time I should wait until 10 or 15min after, before I add it to my roots??? Another question I have is the color I have in my lengths is still a bit to dark for my liking, so I was wondering if I could use the 8gb with the 7sb to get more of a lighter cooler beige color?? Since I used the demi colorance will I be able to change the color after it starts fading??? please let me know. In the meantime what do I do to get the red out of my hair on top??? Please help me with this if you can.... I had no orange in my hair what so ever so I just don't understand where the copper color came from.. I will be waiting for your reply.. Thanks again Mathew... Sarah

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      It sounds like it might have lightened a little from the dye, and this would be the source of the warmth as more of the underlying pigment has been revealed. Your roots especially, being relatively untouched are and closer to the scalp where temperature is highest are more susceptible to lightening, whereas hair further away from your scalp has often been dyed more often because it's existed for longer. The more dye in any section of hair, the less it will lighten from a subsequent dye; eventually getting to the point where bleach is the only option for lightening when there is too much buildup.

      At this point, do the roots look noticeably lighter than your lengths or mainly just warmer? Are they much lighter than before dyeing? You can always apply an ash demi to counteract that warmth and tone it back to a cooler shade, or mix this with a natural shade if there's a big difference and you want to darken it back up to match. Overall, you might need to use a cooler shade for your roots than your lengths to get it to match next time you retouch them. The dyes present in your hair can affect how a subsequent colour looks, so it's perfectly normal for there to be some disparity between how virgin hair and dyed hair turn out when coloured with the exact same dye.

      As for the darker colour in your lengths, being a demi this is going to fade, and next time you refresh the colour you can use the lighter level to tone it without darkening as much. Demi-permanent dyes in general often turn out somewhat darker than their permanent counterparts because there is minimal lift of the other pigment in your hair during dyeing.

      Hopefully you'll be at the exact colour you want soon and then you will just need to deal with the roots as they grow out.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Cici,

      If you were looking at the orange colour as if it was yellow (sounds strange, but bare with me for a moment), would it be as light as your roots, or is it darker? The colour present isn't overly important because it's the depth you need to worry about. For platinum it really needs to be near-white already, and the pale yellow you get from lightening to this point in natural hair is just a good way to tell whether it's light enough. Pale orange hair will tone to the same result if light enough, although you will need to use a slightly different shade for toning to deal with the different colour present.

      The ability to get it to an orange that is pale enough really depends on how much dye is present however. Often with darker dyes, or if your hair has been dyed several times, there will be some amount of red or orange pigment leftover from the dye that won't budge past a certain point. Trying to bleach the rest of this out will destroy your hair before you ever see enough of it removed for a platinum or white result.

      Really, just look at how well it is lightening and what condition your hair is in while you head towards platinum. If lightening slows down substantially, you're at the point where you're better off toning to the level of blonde you're at. If it keeps lightening effectively and your hair is in good condition, there's no issue with continuing towards a paler blonde result. Just make sure that you stop bleaching the root area once it is pale enough and only apply to the darker hair.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Hi Mathew, not sure I completely understand, and some of this may be due to the fact that my anxiety has sky rocketed since putting the dye into my hair. The top of my hair is not lighter, it is darker with the added copper color. My lengths are more of a softer color, even though its still a bit to dark for my taste. My ingredients were 2 parts 7sb and 1 part 7b. Everywhere I added 8gb to pigment my hair came out the same color more softer, but the top where I added nothing because I felt like it had enough pigment in it, came out a little darker with a copper color in it. All of this was virgin hair but had no orange in it what so ever, all yellow with 1 area that had a tad bit of gold color but this didn't affect it cause it was still the same color all over the top. Reading the manual for goldwell said their demi does not lighten hair, but my hair was already lightened due to bleaching. Just don't understand why the top was a little darker with the copper color in it. It seems like it anything the lengths where I added the pigment would have been darker than the top... So are you saying I should go back over the top with just the 7sb??? At this point I am thinking I would really like to just get this color out of my hair and pick another color. Will I be able to do this when the color fades out? Will this color fade out completely?? And if I decide to use a permanent color with ash in it will this color affect it??? I guess I would like a clean slate at this point and go a different direction. I've never had bleached hair before in my life and whenever I dyed it, it all came out the same color, so this is a whole new world for me.. What ever help you can give me I would greatly appreciate it.

    • valentine556 18 months ago

      Thank you SO much!

      Funny that you mention the "red corrects green" (in reverse) - many many moons ago when I first decided to dye my hair in high school using color from my local beauty supply store to get the "Scarlett O'Hara" dark brown with pale skin look I wanted I learned one of the important parts that they teach you in Cos. School - not realizing the highlighted parts that were done 2+ years before base tone should be considered when selecting the red-orange based brown dye gave me teal streaks necessitating a corrective color visit at the salon. And these streaks weren't noticeable after rinse-out the night I dyed my hair, they certainly were after I washed it in the morning for school! I think that over the years I've learned quite a bit about recognizing when something is "out of my wheelhouse", what's realistic to expect - even from professionals, and that words may be fine but a picture says everything. I went in for my most recent appointment and love the results - though I do know that between my hard water and portions of my hair with the old dye's warmth still there (unable to lift any further, something to note for anyone with light hair who plans to spend years as a brunette and/or redhead) I will need to use violet-blue based toning shampoo + some blonde angel conditioner after the fading hits a certain point. :)

      Again, thank you so much!

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Hi Mathew, I'm back once again, I really don't mean to bother you but I need to figure out what I can do to get my hair all the same color and decide what color I'm going to stick with. If you wouldn't mind going here http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/8122009sarah/lib... and looking at my recent photo's, so you can see what I'm talking about in the difference between my lenghts and roots. I did get a lot of the color out when I put the Inoar G Hair treatment in my hair, I guess the flat iron lightened it. Looking at my lengths, can you tell me what level and color they look like now??? I have some 8na permanent goldwell dye and if the color isn't to far off I was thinking about using that. Since my hair seems to suck in color I thought I would start out light and then if it's too light I can move up a level. Regarding my roots, if they are blond when I dye then should I wait a few minutes after I apply the dye before putting it on my roots??? I know if I'm using the dye on my virgin hair then I would put the dye on my roots first. Goldwell manual said it was important to let the dye process the full 30 mins so I would need to make it ahead of time if I was going to put it on the blond roots?? Just trying to look at all my options. I do know that I don't want any warmth in my hair, that was the whole reason I decided to lighten it and change the color. Thanks Mathew, I'll be awaiting your response. Sarah

    • Gia Bia 18 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      You are very knowledgeable I hope you can help me! So today I died my natural dark brown hair that has red-lifted highlights from Sun-in. I used a l'oreal high color lifter for brunettes who want blonde hair. I chose the darkest blond available because I didn't want it to turn too light. The color is actually very nice but I forgot I had used sun -in this morning on my crown and didn't wash it out before applying the box color (20 developer, permanent I believe) and the top of my hair turned bright orangey red. To fix this I immediately applied a Demi permanent 7N medium neutral blond to the top only and all it did was make it a darker brassy red! How do I return the top of my head to the same color as the rest of my hair? Right now it is medium brown with light reddish-gold highlights. I really do not want to use bleach again, so do I use an ash blond or ash brown toner and do I mix it with 10 or 20 developer? I'm so sad I did this to my hair, any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!

      Gia

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      It's possible the dye contained more of a warm base. Sometimes the tone you use is mostly the only tone present, whilst other times there is a heavier warm base tone underneath; it depends on brand and how they formulate the shade. It's kind of like if you apply a dark brown colour and then strip it back out, you notice that it reveals a lot of red and copper pigment as it is removed. Copper or red being present in the shade is the only thing that would explain why your hair started to show copper tones if there was no lightening that occurred.

      For the level and colour, it looks between a level 7 and 8. The tone is close to a natural tone, but with that tinge of warmth. The 8NA you're thinking of using should work well, but you may want to strand test it if you have time. That will let you see whether your hair is going to pick up warm tones from it. The ash tone in there will help with reducing the chances of this happening though. You may want to consider using something like a pure ash or pearl (Or mix of both), in demi-permanent at level 9 though. This should more definitely prevent warmth because it's only cool tones. The use of a level 9 will allow you to use it only for toning without having a more dramatic effect because it's going to be less strong on your hair. You would need to use something different on your roots though, like the 8NA.

      As for the application to your roots, apply first for darkening to match the lengths, and vice versa, apply last if lightening. The reason for this is that being lighter results in the roots taking more time for the colour to develop up to the same depths that the lengths will reach in that same time. You also probably don't want to see anymore darkening of the lengths and this helps avoid that. Application to the lengths is more just to blend the colour with the roots and get it looking even once that area has darkened.

      Let me know how it goes and if you have any problems or further questions about anything. I'm sorry that it's taken me so long to reply. You're certainly not a bother; I've just had little time to address comments here lately.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Gia,

      Don't worry too much; anyone can have a forgetful moment! You need ash to counteract the warmth, but the exact method is going to depend on whether it's noticeably lighter, or mainly just slightly lighter and warmer. In the latter situation, the cool pigment is bleached off revealing the warmth and toning will add this back in and even it up to the same level. In the former though, toning will neutralise the warmth, but it will still be lighter.

      For warmth without major lightening, use ash by itself; with the shade being 1 level lighter than the hair you're toning (If your hair is medium brown as you've said, and the lighter areas aren't much lighter, use light ash brown for this). Apply, allow to reach the colour you want it to be, then rinse. Demi-permanent is definitely fine to use for this and you should be using the developer recommended for your brand's demi-permanent dyes. In most cases, this will be 5 or 7 vol, or sometimes 10 vol or an acid-based developer. If you're using permanent dye, use 10 vol.

      If the hair has lightened a lot, use a mix of natural tone and ash (About half / half, or slightly less ash for a warmer result). Both the natural and ash shades in this mix should be at the level you want it to be, or just slightly lighter if your hair is porous and tends to absorb a lot of colour. Again, the developer used is 10 vol for permanent dye, or whatever is recommended for demi-permanent.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Hi Mathew, I do have another question if you don't mind. the last application I did to my hair. I started at the roots got those done and then put the color in my lengths, and the result came out with my roots and hair above my eye brows darker than my lengths. So I was wondering, could I put the permanent 8na in my roots first so I can watch the color and then do the lengths the next day with 9na demi and watch the color to get a better match??? I'm really hesitant on putting it in all at once like I did before. Also, I do have some p mix, should I add that to the 8na?? I do have some blue ash mix I bought, but that bottle hasn't been opened and was hoping to resell it if I can but will use it if need be. The p mix has already been opened, but would that make a difference in the color?? I kinda went crazy buying different mixes and different level colors before I decided what I wanted and just thought I would resell them on ebay when I had finally decided on a color. I don't have 9na will have to order that one, but do have 7b, 7sb, 8b, 8np, 10p, 11gb, p mix, blue ash mix, v v mix, all are permanent, and then 7b, 7sb, 7na are demi colorance. So for now I will go ahead and order the 9na in demi and wait until I hear from you. Thanks again Mathew. I would just go to a stylist. I used to go to one that was way above Indianapolis in carmel, In. but thats about a 3 hr drive for me. Unfortunately, I was diagnosed with lupus 3 years ago and its hard for me to set an appt and keep it. I have some good days when I can move around and get out and then I have days where nothing is gonna happen, and thats where my husband comes in at. Bless his heart, he don't know anything about hair but he does try his best to help me.. I wish there were stylist that could make house calls, that would be a great business opportunity... Thanks again, Sarah

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Mathew if you could look at this picture I just added to my hair photo and tell me what level you think this is, and compare it to my hair and tell me what level I would need to go to get it any where close to this color. This is what I would be happy with. Thanks Mathew, I will wait for your reply. http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/8122009sarah/lib...

    • valentine556 18 months ago

      @Sarah

      Reading of your situation with your health and not being able to predict when you'll be well enough to set/keep an appointment has gotten me thinking . I live in SoCal where it seems like there's a hair salon on every corner with more professionals than chairs available for them to 'rent'. This has led to some professionals who have built a loyal customer base over the years to start making house calls as their clients get older, or the management has decided to close the salon. Many have also taken on interns who they are training as their eventual replacements - even hair stylists would like to retire, the good ones also know that their clients would be left in a lurch without a referral or two from them who are familiar faces. I don't know where exactly you're living but maybe doing a search for Indianapolis-region-located stylists who offer in home services for your area might turn some options up and if not there's always the option of asking your previous stylist if they might be able to come out to you due to your health. Never hurts to ask.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      I'm sorry to hear about your health; it's understandable that you find it hard to get to appointments. Mobile hairdressers travel to their clients' homes, but I'm not sure how common they are in the US. You could have a quick search on Google to try and find one near you if that will help.

      With the picture, that's a medium to dark ash blonde, and very close to how light your hair is. If you notice that slight warmth to it, that's where there's still some gold and copper tone showing through the ash. The easiest way to replicate it would be to take a fairly light ash shade (for more control over how quickly it tones), apply this, and rinse once the warmth is softened enough. A natural ash can work for this as well, but keep in mind this is still a natural tone primarily, with more of an ash direction; it will contain both warm and cool pigment.

      What I'd recommend to avoid anymore worrying is to do a quick strand test with the 'na' shades and see how they turn out after 5 - 10 minutes of toning. If this grabs coppery tones again, you'll know that any blended shades are too warm and that you need a pure ash tone instead to avoid this; otherwise it will hopefully tone just enough without needing to acquire any new dyes. The other shades you have tend to have a beige tone to them to some degree and this would emphasise the warmth rather than reduce it.

      The blue ash would be great for copper tones because blue neutralises orange, and adding this to the na shades will help prevent any orange tone from appearing as well as neutralise what is already in your hair. You could mix a little of this into the other shades instead of buying ash shades, but I'm hoping you won't have to open it and can resell it. Definitely don't open it unless you absolutely need it.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Hi Mathew, I did a strand test with the 9na and added the blue ash mix. I started on the length of hair after 5 mins I put it on my top and roots and kept it on for 1o mins, so a total of 15 mins. The length came out great but the top came out to bright and still has a lot of warmth in it. So since I am using a cooler color, should I start at the top of my hair and then do my lengths last?? Now I have my dark hair coming back in so I'm a little concerned on how I should handle this. If my hair was already colored and I was just doing my roots then I would be fine, would just have to watch my roots. How should I handle this? I know I have a lot of heat that comes out the top of my head, I've had stylist tell me that, so I don't want to get hot roots. I went ahead and ordered permanent 9na because with the top of my hair being a little darker and warmer I feel I need to pull it out. I know my roots will lighten pretty quick. So, should I start at the top of my hair down to about the top of my ears, then do my roots and then lengths or lengths and then roots?? I did a search for mobile hair stylists, but no luck where I live, so my husband and I will be doing this. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again Mathew..

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      Glad to hear the lengths have come out great with that mix. If only the top wasn't so stubborn! If you apply that mix to the top for longer, it probably won't help with the brightness much, although it will neutralise more of the warmth; as will adding a little more blue ash. Using a natural tone by itself would deal with the brightness more effectively, but I'd be worried about your hair grabbing more orange tones from this as this seems to be the case with the top section.

      With the darker roots though, deal with them once you get everything else exactly where you want it, if possible. That'd be the easiest way to approach it. If it's really bothering you though, dye the roots separately so that you have full control over the process. It's going to be harder to get it to the same colour if you're dyeing the lengths and other sections at the same time.

      If you have any pictures of the current difference between the length, top section, and roots, that could be helpful too. Also, to help out in the mean time; when using a cooler colour to neutralise warmth, start at the warmest areas first and graduate out to the areas of least warmth for even results. When using a darker colour to darken, start with the lightest hair, in most cases, in the same way to ensure these areas have enough time to darken up, whilst the darker areas don't process as long. With lightening, start with the roots only if they're significantly darker; otherwise start with lengths and then apply to roots later into application to avoid hot roots. Sometimes if the roots are darker to begin with, applying all over in one step will lead to an even result because the increased lift at the root area compensates for the darker colour; but you have to be careful if you do this.

    • Sarah1 Elliott profile image

      Sarah1 Elliott 18 months ago

      Hi Mathew, and thanks for replying. I posted 3 pictures on the top row. The first picture I took today, the other 2 I took the day I used the demi 9na in my hair. I combed the strip of hair I colored over to the other side and you can see a difference. It does look cooler than the rest, and you can also see my regrowth as well. Let me know what you think. I should be receiving my permanent 9na in the mail in about 2 days so hopefully I can move on from there. Looking at the strip, it almost looks like if it had been in there a little longer than it would have changed it more. How much of the blue ash should I mix in for the top of my hair.. and should I even put the blue ash in my lengths? they're not really warm like the top of my hair, but would that cause a difference in the color? Thanks again Mathew... http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/8122009sarah/lib...

      Sarah

    • Nichole Akre profile image

      Nichole Akre 18 months ago

      Wow, what a great article. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge.

      Here's me dilemma. I used a kit from the drug store to remove the color from my died dark brown hair. It turned orange. (Didn't leave it on long enough I've since learned) After that, I put on a natural blonde dye. (Also drug store) Hair it's still orange, obviously right? I want to just tone the orange like you suggested above so I was going to go get the proper dye (light ash brown with 10 developer) But I'm not sure this is still the right route since I have already out boxed dye on after the botched bleach job. Thank you for any help!!

    • Nichole Akre profile image

      Nichole Akre 18 months ago

      Well I went ahead and did the timing like you suggested in the article. Back to a safe normal color, mouse brown. ;) I'm mad at myself for not doing the bleach right from the get go. Maybe I'll try again in the future. How long should a person wait before they attempt it again. My hair is in decent shape. A little burned on the end of my bangs though, which is why I decided to tone instead of bleach again. Thanks again!!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Sarah,

      It looks like your hair grabbed onto some red tone from the warmer dyes used, and that would explain why you're having trouble getting it to tone properly. It has somewhat of an ash tone to it, but with that tinge of red. You'd need green pigment to properly neutralise that, but I'm not too sure how you'd approach that with Goldwell. Wella Koleston has a green-blue additive, as well as green-based ash blonde shades that can be used for this kind of thing, and you'd need something similar to that in Goldwell for the same effect. Just a very small amount mixed into another shade though because you don't want it to become too ashy or take on a slight green tinge.

      The lengths are looking very good though. There won't be any further need to adjust them unless the colour you want is still slightly off there. Once you get everything in order I'd recommend using a good blonde shampoo to maintain the colour and avoiding using too much more dye for a while except for root touch-ups.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 18 months ago

      Hi Nichole,

      As long as it's still in good condition, give it at least a week before lightening. If the dye you used was a permanent dye, I'd recommend stripping this out with dye remover about 3 days before you bleach because this will make lightening easier by removing some of that dye. Otherwise, every time you add a dye, that impacts lightening by making it harder for the bleach to lift as much pigment out.

      As for toning, the ash dye you use when toning warmth needs to be based on what level your hair is, as well as how porous your hair is. The level is the depth, or how dark your hair is, whilst porosity is the tendency of hair to absorb dye like a sponge. The more your hair has been dyed or bleached in the past, the more porous it tends to be, but it can also be porous naturally.

      For the level, this is important because if you don't know how dark your hair is, you can't accurately choose the correct dye for toning. If the dye is too light for your hair, it does very little. If it's too dark, it will over-tone and become greyish, blueish, or just overly dark. Once you know the level, if your hair isn't porous, use ash at one level lighter for more of a neutral result, or ash at level for a strong cool result. If porosity is a problem, apply a clear protein filler, and/or use a lighter dye to adjust for this.

    • Shawna 18 months ago

      Love the advice! You are truly a blessing to all of us! I have a friend who had been box dying her hair for 4 years. She has been coloring it a dark chocolate which in turn ended up about a level 3 and her roots this last time ended up about a level 7. She asked me to take her lighter. I used a pravana color remover which helped cut the 3 to about a 5. Then I tried to connect by balayaging bleach with a 40Vol which turned her hair deep gold but had blotches and a band of the 5 still. I then baby bleached it with a 30Vol and shampoo, now it it almost all the deep gold with a couple darker patches but I'm hoping that is enough of a base to get her to a nice medium brown, maybe a level 6 brownish gold (easy on the gold part). What should I do to get that last step? Color lines I use are Redken, Matrix and Kenra, but am not opposed to trying something else.

    • savannah 17 months ago

      Funny story. So i have always done the black to blobde to brown to blonde back to black and in between there somehow i ended up making it through that phase with hair. After cutting lots of it off and letting it grow back and caring for it and getting it nice strong long and healthy, being dark, mind you. I decided to go blonde. And i have been so disappointed with my choice because i have overprocessed my hair. I highlighted it then dyed it. Then bleached it and the next day i bleached it again and put two box dyes on top of that still my hair is bright orange and fried, and i just need to come up with something. I waited a full day is it safe to dye it back dark now and forget about it or am i going to have to look like carrot top with fried fuzzy dead locks on my head...:( plz help thanks.

    • Ann Hogg 17 months ago

      Hi I desperately need help! I recently had my '5' hair turn orange! I have been dyeing my hair now for many years because of being gray/white -age! Anyhow I decided I have had enough of going to get the roots done every two and half weeks, as it grows very quickly in the tropical,heat, where I live.

      I have never wanted to be blonde but the hairdresser felt, white and grey would make me look too old!

      Anyhow after many hours in the chair, the hairdresser managed to bleach the hell out of it and left it white on top and the rest of my hair orange!

      I can't go out of the house! She has offered to work on it again...but I am very nervous and wondered about going back to a light brown and using a semi permanent...if I can get one.

      How will that affect my hair if the roots are know totally white whilst the brassy blond/orange is the main part. I would hate to think I get two different colors or green where the white hair is!

      Help!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 17 months ago

      Hi beautyrev,

      I'm glad you've found it helpful, and sorry for the late reply. Once you get it light enough, you can tone using a mix of Matrix SoColor 6W and 6A and that should give a nice balanced brown that isn't too warm or golden. The ash will help temper the warmth to a more subtle result, as well as deal with the pigment revealed during lightening. This is for a level 6 result.

      As for a medium brown, you can dye with medium natural brown and this will be a fairly neutral colour. If there's a lot of warmth you're trying to cover, add in a little ash to the mix and this will deal with it.

    • Charlotte Terry profile image

      Lottie Terry 17 months ago

      Hi! Thankyou very much! You have saved my hair! But I have a very important question which will involve me telling my hair dye experience.

      On Thursday I decided to dye my naturally mousey, dark blonde hair a light blonde colour using Garnier Belle colour 111 contacting ash! I put in on for the required 30 minutes and it made my hair lighter but also have ginger in it! And quite a lot of it! So, after using the touch of silver shampoo on it to lighten it more and get rid of the gingerNess, which it did (but only a bit) we decided to use the same dye(newly opened) but on my hair and get rid of the ginger but as a toner instead - we put it on for 20 mintues- however, whilst it did make my hair lighter it also made it more ginger!

      So, my mom found this Web page and told me how to fix it, we put a precious light brown, number 6, hair dye by garnier on my hair the next day (containing no ash) and it made my hair finally go a darker brown and get rid of the gingerNess! However...I washed it 2 days ago and the brown faded a bit! So, my question is, if I wash it will the brown fade along with the ginger-blonde leaving it to go back to my original colour or will the brown fade and just bring out the ginger-blonde again?

      Please help! Thankyou!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 17 months ago

      Hi Savannah,

      If you're worried, a semi-permanent or at least demi-permanent dye is far less damaging (Non-damaging in the case of the semi), and you can use this to darken it whilst giving it time to rest. Otherwise, as long as it's not breaking readily, it should be strong enough for that last dye back to a dark colour, at which point it'd help a lot to use a protein treatment once a week for a few weeks. This will help repair some of the damage, whilst a deep conditioner will take care of the dryness and frizz to some extent.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 17 months ago

      Hi Ann,

      Whatever tone is used will really grab onto the roots because of how light that hair is. In the case of ash dye, which is what you'd ideally be using to neutralise the orange, this can look green or blue on this hair because of the way toning works. On the lengths, the cool tone in the ash dye, which is mostly blue tone, is balanced out by that orange. The blue and orange combined produce a neutral shade. On the roots though, all that blue tone has nothing to keep it in balance, so it just gives a blue result.

      You can definitely get around this, and the best way is to fill the roots first. If you do it this way, what you want to do is get the roots to the same orange colour of your lengths prior to toning to correct it. That way, everything is the same colour and it all reacts the same way to the dye.

    • Ayame Rose profile image

      Ayame Rose 17 months ago from New York

      Great info here. I'm unfortunately stuck with 3 different tones. Old henna, old dye and new growth which was dyed (yes, lightened as if it were bleached!) by Color Oops. Both Color Oops and Color Fix have not been able to rid of even the newer orange from dye alone. Red Raj henna (pure, not boxed/metallic/salts etc) from the ears down, below that black dye-over-another-mistake just over year ago, above is now the usual stripped color. Today I used Color Fix, a protein filler (neutral) and Ion Color Brilliance 7A and 7 with 20 vol, and even with a specific anti-red additive to the mix, the color has come out with 2 inches of brightish blonde/orange roots, medium brown/reddish middle, and darker ends. I'm looking to stop dying my hair altogether in future but cannot seem to get a color that will just allow me to go back to my natural hair without the awful 2-tone problem. I'd like not to lose any length if possible but am so irritated with bad hairdressers and failed products that I'm eyeing up buzz-cuts! Any help would be appreciated. :{

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 17 months ago

      Hi Charlotte,

      What likely happened with the dye was that whilst it lightened your hair, the ash pigment in the shade used wasn't dark enough to tone the warmth out. With the darker dye though, even though this wasn't an ash shade, because it is dark enough where the colour deposited is actually going to be noticeable, it covers the warmth, and even without being an ash shade, there will still be some cool tone involved which neutralises some of it too.

      As for the fading, this will depend on how much fading occurs and what tones fade more prominently. It is possible for it to fade without getting as warm again, especially if the warmer tones in the dye wash out whilst much of the cool tone remains, but you won't be able to tell what will happen until it does. In most cases, you can expect that warmth to start to reappear, but it probably won't be anywhere near as extreme as it was before dyeing.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 17 months ago

      Hi Ayame,

      To get it completely one colour, you'd have to be comfortable with it being darker because toning alone won't even it out. You can get it close with toning, and you could technically apply different dyes to the different sections to selectively darken it where necessary, but you'll have a lot of trouble with this.

      To even it out, the easiest way is to fill it to all the same orange colour, and then cover this with a darker shade, using a mix of ash and natural. This will deal with the difference in tone because you're filling it to the same colour, and then dyeing over it with a darker dye that also balances it out.

      If you didn't want it to be as dark, you could bleach it all first to try and get it all lighter. This will compound the difference in colour at first, and the idea is to focus on getting it lighter rather than what it looks like. Once that is out of the way, you can use the same process above, but using lighter dye so that when it now evens out and darkens up, it's still a lighter shade.

      Of course, lightening it is dependent on it being strong enough to handle it, and even then you'll have a lot of trouble with the henna. Dye remover like the Color Oops won't remove henna because it only works on permanent dye (It reverses the chemical process that makes the dye permanent), and even bleach has trouble lifting henna. When you bleach over hair that has been dyed with henna, what is mostly happening is that any natural pigment remaining is lightened, whilst the henna itself often doesn't budge at all.

    • Mikey Bingham profile image

      Mikey Bingham 17 months ago

      Hi Maffew

      So, i previously dyed my hair a dark brown about a month ago and now I've decided to go a platinum blonde or silver. I bleached my hair with 30vol developer and blue powder last week and it didnt lift much of the colour out so I bleached it again the same day and it turned to a medium orange. I deep condioned for about a week and bleached it again today, now it's turned to a more vibrant and noticeable orange. My question is, how do I go about fixing this and getting it to a platinum or silver? I have toners (blue and purple based), de Lorenzo silver shampoo and more bleach, and how long do you think the process from the time you reply would take to go from Orange to brown.

      Thank you in advance!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 17 months ago

      Hi Mikey,

      I apologise for how late my reply is. Based on how much lift you're seeing from each bleach process, you're probably looking at about 2 more processes for a light blonde. Getting a platinum or silver result will require a little more lightening past this point, but if the dark brown dye is particularly stubborn it may not be possible to get it this light without damaging it badly before you reach that stage. It depends a lot on what colour your hair was underneath the dye and how well the dark brown dye is being stripped.

      One option in between bleaching any further is to use dye remover to try and break down some of that dye pigment. This can have a significant affect on lightening by lifting some of the pigment as well as allowing the bleach itself to work more effectively. The way dye remover works is by actually reversing the process that makes permanent dye 'permanent', and it does this without damaging your hair like bleach. It won't always take out all the dye, especially in the case of darker colours, but if you can afford to use it there's nothing to lose by giving it a try. Best scenario, most of the dye is stripped out and you'll just need to bleach it further to lift any natural pigment and the remaining dye. Worst scenario, it partially strips it out, but this still helps you reach a lighter colour, allows for quicker bleaching and results, and less damage than bleaching alone.

      Of course, with all this said, it's perfectly fine to continue with just bleaching it. Regardless of how you go about it, pay close attention to its condition and stop lightening it any further if too much damage is sustained. If you find your hair is becoming too damaged to go further, the best idea is to apply a protein treatment at least once a week, tone it to deal with the orange colour, and give it a few weeks to rest and let the protein treatments repair some of the damage before lightening again, and then, only if it can take it.

      Once you do get it light enough, because of the brown dye, it won't likely look that pale yellow colour hair appears at the depth at which it can be toned to silver or platinum. Hair that has been dyed with dark brown or black dyes often retains more of an orange colour as it lightens because of the dye pigment present. You'll have to gauge how light it is on more on depth than colour. As for toning, you'll also need to be using a blue-based toner to deal with the orange tone if it is present, but considering that you already have this, you should be right. The De Lorenzo Silver shampoo itself should be strong enough to deal with the warmth if all else fails as it does have a nice blue tone to it that will work on the orange.

    • lila 17 months ago

      Hi is bleeched my hair with and after i washed it it turned orange .. i was blanning to go brownish honey my nature hair is dark brown .. but after the dying proccess it turned orange sort of light from the root .. i dont like it

      What should i do i want to go darker but which shade will cover this mess ..

      Please help!

    • JoJo K-J 16 months ago

      After 20 ++ years of coloring my hair I decided to embrace my roots and grow in my natural gray/white mix. I asked my HD if she had a strategy for minimizing the skunk line and so here is what "we" did. I used Color Fix to remove some of the previous color and then she bleached in a bunch of highlights and followed with a demi toner? or dye? (she has no intention of telling me what she actually used but the brand was Organix) that had me at a silvery ash color that blended pretty nicely with my natural growth. I told her that my hair does not hold color well - even permanent color fades super quick - it always has. It lasted less then five days and now I am very orangey/gold (where the color remover worked best) anywhere from a level 7/8 in the back to lighter in the front (I am pure white right smack in the front at the hairline) except my natural growth which is a very ash dark gray brown and white. I am in need of a "new" strategy. I started coloring my own hair about four years ago when needing a touch up every three weeks became too expensive to outsource. I maintained about a level 7 with a bit of gold for some warmth which was lighter then my natural color - in my youth I was probably a level 3 or 4 brown. What I want is 1) Ashier since my age-affected natural color has a lot of ash in it . . . so out with the orange please 2) A way to blend in with the growth line without affecting my natural color - NO LIFT PLEASE.

      I don't know enough about toners to know if I should use one. If a demi would be better I need a level suggestion - I strand tested Ion's demi 7.01 and it absolutely nothing. I am wondering if the ION ash tones even have enough blue base in them to counteract all the orange in my hair. I only have a Sally's near me so Wella's Color Charm or ION are the two products easiest for me to get my hands on. Thanks so much for whatever assistance you can throw my way.

    • Lala 16 months ago

      HELP! I am 55 years young and I had grown out all my creamy blonde highlights ( which i used to tone with purple shampoo) over the last 24 months to achieve my own beautiful real silver hair with my natural brown ( number 5) in a classy salt and pepper look that was completely natural. It was mostly silver at the front and the towards the back of my head the hair was still quite dark plus some silver strands thoughout. it was a typical silver and grey and dark natural looking head of hair - that is straight. I foolishly let a hairdresser put some Inoa foils ( semi permanent) in my hair - i think these were a light blonde plus some low lights of something brownish. There was no warmth at all anywhere at that stage. It was very mousey looking overall. Then 6 weeks later she talked me into further foils - a whole head of Inoa semi permanent foils consisting of once again low lights and highlights. However she chose lowlights that were the colour of a caramel toffee and the highlight was a white blond. The whole effect is weird and i have ginger hair foiled pieces plus white grey ashy /blonde hair all over. She also put a base colour ( also semi perm ) on all the roots. Now my own roots are coming back in and so i have my own beautiful silver roots plus some dark number 5 roots that is my normal natural colour before i went silver plus its all a bit salt and peppery looking. I have been washing out the Inoa semi perm colours and the ginger toffee colour is starting to fade out but its still a warm ginger colour. The whole effect is not what i wanted. The hairdrsser ofered to fix it by bealch shampooing it and then toning it. I dont want to go back to her unless i have a definite plan for her to follow. What woudl i be best to do at this stage. I hate the ginger with the white foils and the silver roots at the front and the rest of my natural colour appearing at the back of my head. My hair has naturally gone silver from front to back - so i am full silver at the front and salt and pepper at the back. I shoudl never have let her touch my natural silvery/ grey/dark hair with any colour. How do get my own natural coulour back. I do not mind using blonde highlights dispersed throughout the hair as a temporary measure to allow my own natural hair to grow out. But my hairdresser tells me because she put warm brown ( the toffee colour ) in my hair , that any bleach will grab onto it and make my hair tend towards orange or brass or yellow even - and she will have to correct it. I don't do ash very well as this makes my hair go khaki and my skin tone looks muddy if i use ash blonde. I am a blue eyed, fair skinned with redness and freckles and have a slight yellow tone to my skin with a bluey green vein. I have east european blood plus french and irish - so i am a weird mixture and i burn easily. In the past 20 years i have used straight out creamy blondes and a no 5 for lowlights and this has worked well while i was going gray. I always used to use violet / purple toning shampoo to keep out the brassiness and make my hair more silver toned. What do i do now with all this awful ginger and white mess ?? thanks so much and i am looking forward to your reply!

    • Lina 16 months ago

      Hi,

      Need your advice pls! About a month ago had my hair bleached from dark brown and was hoping for a dark blonde. The hairdresser burned my hair and i had to cut more than half which made me very sad. In addition i didnot get the color i want. Now it is turning orange after every wash and i dont know what to do to achive a light ashy brown. Pls help

    • carol 16 months ago

      I am having a hair color melt down. I will try to keep this short. I was letting my gray/white hair grow out. The rest of my hair had many layers of dye. And it was looking yellow with orange in it. I dyed my hait dark ash blonde. I thought it was too dark so i did the lemon with conditioner. It did lighten my hair. Anyway i decided to dye my hair using manic panic purple haze. Immediately I knew that I didnt like it. So i dyed my hair with dark ash blonde again. Now i have red orange hair. What can I do to get it to a nice dark ash blonde. I'm afraid to do anything to make matters worse. My hair is looking frizzy too. Should i do a bleach bath and redye it again. As you can read I'm very inexperienced in this. Can you give me some advice

    • Dee- 16 months ago

      My 19year old has very dark brunette hair & went to a salon to get it lightened to a natural light brown. It's all a dark orangey brown with 2-3 inches of her roots looking like cooper.

      The guy at the salon tried to add more toner once she told him it's too orange. (She was very clear, no orange red tones). It didn't work.

      What can we do?

    • Denise 15 months ago

      Hi Maffew

      Please can you help, my hair was red, I bleached it and it went orange , so I bleached it again using 20 vol peroxide, plus this time did my roots, the roots were blonde , and the lenght and ends light orange , I the used koleston 10/00 30 ml and koleston 0/11 ,with 10 vol.

      I am happy with the length and ends but the roots have gone slightly green , is there anything I can do the remove this green , i looked at colour chart it says red , but I want to avoid red, any ideas I be very welcome .thank you fir your time

    • Jennifer Sparrow profile image

      Linda Burnett 14 months ago from Canada

      As a naturally orange haired chick, I would like to make another suggestion if your hair has turned out orange - ENJOY IT! :)

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 14 months ago

      Hi Lala,

      Apologies for the very late reply. Hopefully you're well.

      It is correct that the fading of the warm shades will lead to bright warm tones eventually, and this does need to be toned to neutralise it. However, because your hair is predominantly grey and an ash tone is necessary to counteract the warmth, the toning will also enhance your grey hair and may lead to a very ashy or even violet/bluish result if applied all over.

      To deal with this, toner can be applied in foils over the previously dyed lowlights that have been bleach washed or faded over time. This way, the toner can only affect the hair that needs toning. Of course, it can still look darker as a result and give the appearance of neutral to ashy lowlights because these sections of hair contain more pigment than your silver base.

      Applying ash lowlights is another way to make it look less warm by introducing a little darker ash hair. This makes the overall appearance of your hair cooler in tone, but the warmth is technically still there because you aren't neutralising it. In any case, it can be a good option because you can then allow these new lowlights to fade with the previous lowlights to keep it from looking too warm while you try to wash all the semi-permanent dye out.

      Finally, one last option, but more extreme, is to fill it all with a light golden blonde and then dye over that with natural or ash medium blonde. This will lead to a much darker colour but will even it out to look fairly consistent and eliminate all the highlights and lowlights. You'd only do this if you really want it to be one colour, because the other methods will help improve the appearance of it without significant darkening like this method.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 14 months ago

      Hi Lina,

      Sorry for the late reply. If the orange is still a problem, you can correct this with a light ash brown dye. I'd recommend using a semi-permanent dye for this to gauge the effect and prevent any further damage at first. If this tones adequately when applied for 20 minutes of so, you can go over it with a demi-permanent or permanent dye next time to give it a longer lasting tone.

      Otherwise, if the colour doesn't change, or only changes slightly, this means you're still a little darker than the light brown stage, at which point you'll need to use a darker ash dye to counteract it and take it back to a nice brown. I wouldn't recommend further bleaching to go lighter at this point, given how it affected your hair previously.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 14 months ago

      Hi Carol,

      Sorry for the late reply. If the orange hair is still a problem, you will need to lighten it a little first to achieve a dark blonde result.

      All that darker warm pigment that looks reddish now would have come from the purple dye. Given that Manic Panic dyes are semi-permanent, this should wash out over time and the best thing to do to encourage this is to use clarifying shampoo. If it stops fading any further, you'll need to bleach wash it to take any more pigment out. Only do this if your hair is strong enough to stand up to it though; frizz can be a sign of damage and it's possible your hair is already weakened.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 14 months ago

      Hi Denise,

      Apologies for the very late reply. The green tinge has probably washed out by now, but if it hasn't, there are a few ways to deal with it. As you can probably tell, it's a result of the ash concentrate used to tone your lengths. Whilst perfect for your lengths, the lighter hair of your roots will grab onto any darker shades you use, including the strong blue tone of the concentrate.

      Although red does neutralise green, and you can tone it with this in mind, it can also help to visualise what tones are adding together in your hair to give the green appearance. In many cases, it's blue tone from ash, mixing with yellow tone in blonde hair that gives a green appearance. The Wella shades you used don't contain green pigment, so this is most likely the case. This means that adding in orange tone is a better fix. The dye used should be semi or demi-permanent because this will then fade out with the blue tone over time and prevent your blonde from gradually becoming too warm.

    • Maffew James profile image
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      Maffew James 14 months ago

      Hi Jennifer,

      It really depends a lot on how it looks. Sometimes an orange hair mistake can look more like a nice copper or strawberry shade and many people may be fine with keeping this. Often though, the result of lightening gone wrong is a fluorescent orange that is a far-cry from a natural 'orange' shade.

    • Jules 13 months ago

      Hi I unwisely let my friend do my hair for me and I am regretting it horribly. I wanted to have her give me a rose gold look and instead my hair is very light and orange not to mention horrible and dry and frizzy. My natural color is medium brown and although I'd like to make my hair look as rose gold as possible, I am willing to just dye over the whole thing because I hate it.

      My friend was in beauty school and she has access to buy professional dyes and bleaches so what she used was not a box product.

      Should I dye my hair over with a brown? If so, what shade?

      Thank you so much.

      I have to go back to school tomorrow and I really need to fix this ASAP.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 13 months ago

      Hi Jules,

      You'd still need to get it quite a lot lighter for the rose gold look. I wouldn't recommend lightening it any further without allowing it to rest first though, so if you're keen to just fix it quickly, the easiest way to do so is with a dark ash blonde dye.

      To do this, use 10 vol as the developer, apply the dye, and process until you're happy with the colour. This will tone it to approximately light brown from the orange you have now, keeping it somewhat lighter. If you want to go back to a darker brown, use a natural tone mixed with an ash tone; eg, half medium natural brown and half medium ash brown. This will give effective coverage over your now lighter hair without looking too warm and retaining the orange tinge.

    • Help! 13 months ago

      I have been dying my hair for a long time. Most recently I used loreal hicolor red hot in my hair. After, I decided I wanted to be Khloe Kardashian blonde. I used hicolor again in sandstone blonde for a base but all it did was make my roots yellow and the shaft was just more red. I stripped the color with color oops and covered with loreal excellence champagne blonde, it was ash, but didn't take away any orange or red color left from the color oops. Then today I used one n only argan oil in 7A. Still, nothing. My roots aren't so yellow but still not right. I'm at a loss of what to do at this point without shaving my head and not leaving my house for two years.

    • MyMastiffPuppies profile image

      MyMastiffPuppies 13 months ago

      This is a great resource for hair color and solutions for when it goes wrong. Wish Hubpages would have been around 20 years ago. Excellent job!

    • Kate needs your help, please 13 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      I find your articles very useful, however I am somewhat confused after having read them all plus the comments. I was born with a dark brown hair, however I have dyed it several times since then: starting from henna to permanent warm brown colours to red to jet black to brown (hairdresser had to bleach my hair) to henna and to red again. (NB: I mainly colour my hair myself at home.)

      My last hair colour was faded as I did not dye it for several months but was somewhat vibrant red with some golden/copper tones to it under the sunlight (as I was using Garnier Rose Gold) and my roots are now grown to 3-4 cm length and are medium to dark ash brown. Few days ago, I have "stripped the permanent colour molecules" from my hair with Colour B4 which has done a great job however now it is light-medium golden/copper orange colour and I want to have a natural light to medium blonde (no beige undertone though however I would not complain if there is a little bit of yellow/golden bling to the hair). Should I dye my hair now with a permanent hair dye ex: light ash blonde, to achieve the colour I want.

      I am open to bleaching my hair as your articles suggest however, I am confused on what shade of colour dye should I use to achieve the desired result as I dont want to end up having dark ashy hair.

      I would be very grateful if you could please suggest any particular quality brands with the shades numbers that I should purchase? Thank you in advance for reading my long explanation and your helpful suggestions.

    • americanesl profile image

      Ginny 12 months ago

      Hi, great information. My hair has lots of red in it and I tried to counter it with ash coloring and it came out green. I read online to use ketchup on it for 30 minutes and then rinse it. It worked really well!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 12 months ago

      Hi Kate,

      Apologies for the late reply. It's still a little dark for a light blonde result. Toning to neutralise the warmth will add colour and lead to it being a little darker still once it reaches a nice shade of blonde, so this needs to be taken into account as well.

      To get to a light blonde that isn't too ashy, the best thing to do is to bleach bath it that little further to get it to slightly lighter. After that, tone with a mix of half 9A and 9N using 10 vol as the developer, or use a mix of the same shades in demi-permanent / semi-permanent if preferred. This will take out most of the warmth, but the addition of the natural tone to the ash softens the ash tone to reduce the effect.

      Of course, you'll still need to watch it after application and remove at the time when it's a little ashier than the actual colour you want. It will look slightly warmer when dry, so toning a little further adjusts for this.

      As for brands, good salon brands like Igora, Wella, or Matrix will produce a great result, but it really just depends on what you have available to you. Though if you were to decide to go with a permanent box dye, discard the developer provided and add your own 10 vol because the developer included in blonde box dyes is generally 20 or 30 vol to allow for lightening, which you don't need when toning. A lower developer volume decreases damage and will keep your hair feeling and looking healthier.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 12 months ago

      Hi americanesl,

      That's the 'flip-side' of this sort of correction. Complementary colours produce a neutral result when in balance, whilst a dominance of either causes the dominant colour to appear.

      In this sense, if you're using green to neutralise red, or blue to neutralise copper, this only works if you don't over-process it because excessive toning will lead to a green or blue result respectively in these scenarios. As you found out, you can correct this green by using red to re-establish the balance between the two tones. Green neutralises red because it is its complementary tone, and red neutralises green for the same reason.

    • BMWgal profile image

      BMWgal 12 months ago

      Great page! Please help! I had my dark brown, very long hair professionally lightened in one of the best salons in my city. The stylist told me she could lighten my previously dyed (grey coverage) hair in several visits to a platinum color. The first visit, she did 2 color removals; the second, 2 bleaches, which left it a reddish-orange color; the third, another bleach with foil & heat (left on for several hours), which caused hair to be left on the salon floor & a really ugly orangish color with some pale blonde pieces underneath. She told me to let it rest for a few weeks and return for color correction. So far, I paid her several hundred dollars a visit. My hair felt gummy & horrible when wet & I didn't even wash it for quite a while. When I went back, she put some Demi color on it, which didn't do much for the orangish tones & was gone in less than 2 weeks (I only washed it once this time with only conditioner, as I couldn't stand the way it felt when it was wet. It has been about 3 weeks now, & I even tried toning it with AC vinegar & blue food coloring, which did make the orange appear gold, but didn't last. I don't want to go back to dark hair, as I was coloring roots every 3 days for gray coverage, which is why I lightened it in the first place! My goal is still much lighter hair, but I don't want to deal with a stylist who is careless again. My hair feels much better since the AC vinegar (twice) treatments & is still very long & thick.

      I cannot stand the orangish color of it & it has kept me from leaving my house, even during the holiday season. Please advise me on how to tone the hideous color out of my hair until I can further lighten it to achieve the desired color. Also, how long should I wait to bleach again? I don't see a way to attach any photos on this hub, but I do have them from each stage of the process. Thank you so much for any help that you can provide!

    • BMWgal profile image

      BMWgal 12 months ago

      Sorry to seem pushy, but I have an important interview coming up & I really need to fix this mess! In desperation, I tried Garnier Nutriesse White Chocolate high-lift color on my hair, as I've seen so many positive reviews online from people who say it's lightened their bleached orange hair up to a champagne blonde. It certainly DID NOT have that effect on mine! It did not lighten my hair; if anything, it made it more brassy & it is still orangish. I don't want to go darker, but my goal is a light blonde without orange tones. I believe my hair color currently is a level 6 dark blonde? PLEASE HELP AS SOON AS YOU CAN! Previous post copied below. Thank you!

      Great page! Please help! I had my dark brown, very long hair professionally lightened in one of the best salons in my city. The stylist told me she could lighten my previously dyed (grey coverage) hair in several visits to a platinum color. The first visit, she did 2 color removals; the second, 2 bleaches, which left it a reddish-orange color; the third, another bleach with foil & heat (left on for several hours), which caused hair to be left on the salon floor & a really ugly orangish color with some pale blonde pieces underneath. She told me to let it rest for a few weeks and return for color correction. So far, I paid her several hundred dollars a visit. My hair felt gummy & horrible when wet & I didn't even wash it for quite a while. When I went back, she put some Demi color on it, which didn't do much for the orangish tones & was gone in less than 2 weeks (I only washed it once this time with only conditioner, as I couldn't stand the way it felt when it was wet. It has been about 3 weeks now, & I even tried toning it with AC vinegar & blue food coloring, which did make the orange appear gold, but didn't last. I don't want to go back to dark hair, as I was coloring roots every 3 days for gray coverage, which is why I lightened it in the first place! My goal is still much lighter hair, but I don't want to deal with a stylist who is careless again. My hair feels much better since the AC vinegar (twice) treatments & is still very long & thick.

      I cannot stand the orangish color of it & it has kept me from leaving my house, even during the holiday season. Please advise me on how to tone the hideous color out of my hair until I can further lighten it to achieve the desired color. Also, how long should I wait to bleach again? I don't see a way to attach any photos on this hub, but I do have them from each stage of the process. Thank you so much for any help that you can provide!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 12 months ago

      Hi BMWgal,

      With the current condition of your hair, I wouldn't recommend lightening it any further right now. A few protein treatments using a product like Redken Cat or Joico K-Pak Reconstructor will help deal with the damage, but in the mean time, you can tone it to correct the orange colour and get it looking presentable enough for your interview.

      Normally, bright orange that is starting to shift to a golden tone is about a level 6, but when you're working with previously dyed hair this can vary. Often, red tones from dark dyes that had been applied can persist with lightening and cause your hair to look red or orange past the level where that colour would normally occur. As such, you may need to test a toner on a small section of hair first to gauge how your hair reacts to get a better idea of the level. Heavily bleached hair also tends to be porous and will absorb more colour in general.

      To begin with, a semi-permanent 6A dye would be preferable and you should apply this to a test strand. If your hair quickly starts to turn ashy from this, you need to use a lighter level. On the other hand, if the colour has barely changed after 10 - 15 minutes, you need to use a darker level. You can go from there and get a better idea before dyeing all your hair. As this dye is a semi-permanent, it will wash out quickly, but the intention is to use it to temporarily get your hair to a nice shade of blonde before eventually dyeing it with a permanent dye for lasting results once it is strong enough to take it.

      As for how long until you can bleach your hair again, there's no guarantee that you will be able to bleach it again at all without it falling apart. However, this is just the worse case scenario. You'll need to look at how your hair reacts to protein treatments first and give it at least a month before really considering whether it's strong enough to go any further. The longer you can leave it, the better.

      Worst case scenario, if it can't stand up to further lightening you can darken your regrowth to match until it grows out, and then lighten further. This will still conceal grey hair during this time and prevent you from needing to go back to a dark colour, but depending on how long you want your hair to be, it can take many months to ultimately get it to the lighter colour you want.

    • BMWgal profile image

      BMWgal 12 months ago

      Thanks for your reply! I cannot find any semi-permanent hair color in any of my local stores; only Demi's, which require peroxide to process, or permanents. Can you recommend any & where to purchase please? Also, is there such a thing as a blue toner for this problem? As the only thing that has even worked a little bit is blue food coloring mixed with apple cider vinegar, sprayed on, & rinsed out, it seems to make sense. The problem with food coloring is it is unpredictable, makes the light blonde pieces blue, & doesn't last. Thanks for your help!

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 12 months ago

      Hi BMWgal,

      Demi-permanent is fine if that's all that is available to you. It's only mildly damaging at least.

      Ash blonde dye contains blue tone at the level you're at, and this is what tones the orange out. Eventually, as the dyes get to lighter levels, the blue tone shifts to violet to deal with increasing amounts of yellow that is more prominent in lighter blonde hair. Basically, if you were toning with 6A, you're using mostly blue pigment as the toner because the dye is formulated in that way to deal with the coppery warmth characteristic of that level. Using certain brands, you can add extra blue in the form of a concentrate if necessary, but you won't normally need this for your situation.

      As far as 'pure blue' toners go, these also exist in the same way that violet toners do, but they're rare and the ash dye will do the same thing with better reliability. If you wanted to though, you can make your own blue toner to the exact strength you need by diluting small amounts of semi-permanent blue dye, like Fudge Paintbox, into conditioner. This is basically the same thing that you did with the food colouring, which you may also find to work better and lead to a more even result if mixed into conditioner and applied like a dye, rather than sprayed on.

    • Stephanie 12 months ago

      Went to the hairdressers and he made a mess of my hair with orange yellow highlights six weeks on in have now put a wella color touch plus 88/03 on it and it is now orange even more what color do I put on to create a lightish brown color or a nice 7 shade don't want to be too dark.

      Have a grey 1cm grey root to deal with too.

      Could you please help.

      Thank you

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 12 months ago

      Hi Stephanie,

      There's several things you need to consider in your situation: how dark your base colour is, how dark the highlights are, and the difference between these colours and the light brown you want to reach.

      Take the highlights for example. Being close to yellow in appearance, they're likely about a level 7 or so in depth. To get the highlights to a light brown colour, which is a level 5, these will need to be darkened during dyeing. If the base colour itself is darker than light brown, this complicates things because you need to darken the highlights and lighten the base colour to get it all even. Ideally, for the easiest, and best result, you'd hope to be working with a base colour that is already light brown or lighter. If it's darker, you can still correct for this though. If you provide a little more information about your base colour, this will help me provide you with easier instructions that are more specific to your hair.

      As for a general correction procedure if your base colour isn't too dark, a mix of 6N and 6A together will give good coverage and neutralise the warmth. The natural tone is a balanced mix of all three primary colours, and this is required to darken your hair back up, whilst the ash shade you mix into this skews it towards a cooler result to avoid any of the orange tone showing through into the new hair colour. In Wella, these shades are 6/0 and 6/1, but the Color Touch line doesn't have the 6/1. You would need to use Wella Koleston for this instead, which is a permanent line and will provide longer lasting results. Use a ratio of 1 quarter 6/1 to 3 quarters 6/0 for a neutral result, or half of each for a cool ash brown result. If you would prefer to use Color Touch, which is a demi-permanent line, you can use 6/0 with about 10 - 25 % 5/1 mixed in depending on how cool you want the result to be. Because the ash shade here is a level 5, it is darker and you need to mix less in to get the same effect.

      When you have settled on the mix you want, you should mix this with 20 vol if using Koleston, or 6 vol emulsion if using Color Touch. Again, the Koleston will work better here using the higher volume of developer because it will lift some pigment out of your base colour to get it more even during processing. Apply the dye to your lengths, without applying it to your roots. Cover both the highlights and the base colour. Once you've done this, you can go back in and cover the roots with 6/0 by itself without any ash mixed in because the grey will really grab onto any dominant tones. Once it has developed, you can rinse it out and the colour will be fairly even all over without having to dye any of the different sections separately. However, with any color correction where there are sections or highlights of hair that are a different level and tone to other hair, absorption of the dye can be slightly more or less efficient based on how heavily the hair has been processed, and fading can occur more slowly or quickly to the different sections. Ultimately, you may see some minor difference where the highlights were both after dyeing, and more so after fading begins to occur. When you next need to retouch your roots, you can go over the lengths again to refresh this and keep it more even.

      If the base colour is darker than light brown though, whilst you can get it close to even in one process sometimes, using a higher developer to lift more pigment from the darker hair whilst the highlights still darken up, this isn't going to give the most even or reliable results. It would be better in this situation to bleach wash your hair to lighten the base colour, fill to replace the missing underlying pigment in the highlights, and then dye in a similar process to the previous example.

    • Em 12 months ago

      I tried to bleach my longish dyed black (level 1) hair gradually over a few weeks using olaplex & igora bleach wanting to eventually go silver (so bleach to level 10), I completely avoided my roots all together because my virgin hair isn't dark (level 5?), until my orange hair was a lighter shade then my roots and then I chucked it on all over, but quickly washed it off because my roots still managed to go a level 10 in about 20 minutes while the rest is probably a 8, my hair was in OK condition, I soaked mid to ends in coconut oil overnight, and today I re applied bleach to every where but where it is level 10 (roots), it went a bit lighter, but it didn't get the orange out and now the ends are totally completely fried. My hair has no layers so I want to get a lot chopped off anyway, I think this will cut a lot of the darker shades out, remove the worst of the damage and make it a lot easier to deal with when correcting the colour.

      Following this hair cut, how can I get all of my hair the same level? It doesn't seem to lighten anymore, is it possible it will not lift anymore and bleaching will only damage and not change it any more? If this is the case, how can I get my roots to be the same level?

      I tried adding blue hair dye mixed with conditioner to tone it but I also didn't want to leave it on too long incase any of the level 10 was to go pale green/blue, it would be good if I can get all of the hair the same colour before toning and dying, but I don't know how to do this?

      I honestly couldn't say what level the majority of my hair is because of the brassiness it's so hard to say, It's probably 10 roots to 8.5 mids to 7 ends? (pale blonde-blorange-blorange)

      I don't mind buying toners/dyes but I don't want to guess and get the wrong one.

      Thanks

    • Stephanie 12 months ago

      Many thanks for your reply Maffew.

      Rather than using a 6/0 and a 6/1 would it be possible to us a lighter colour like for example a 7/0 or an 8/0 as the wella 6/0 are very dark for me and I look gaunt .

      Sorry to be a pest

      Thank you

    • Em 12 months ago

      Heres an image if that helps too! ^

      https://gyazo.com/d4ae9878d4ea2ee17aef925ef04344cb

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 12 months ago

      Hi Stephanie,

      Apologies for the late reply. It's perfectly fine to go a level lighter, but the dye you use does need to be dark enough to cover both the highlights and base colour to even everything out. Otherwise it will darken your highlights, but there will still be a noticeable difference between the two sections of hair. You could definitely strand test it to see how the dye looks in your hair prior to selecting the exact shade you want and colouring everything.

    • Stephanie 11 months ago

      Hi James

      Thanks for your help so far.

      I tried a 7/0 with a 7/1 just on my roots area, and the colour wasn't very nice more of a orange tone and the roots are still visible, and haven't taken very well.

      Would it be advisable to wait a couple of days then try the 6/0 and the 6/1.

      Would this darken the orange, and would the darker colour take better to colour the grey roots.

      Please could you help.

      So grateful to you.

    • 3babiesmomma 11 months ago

      Help! I was a guinea pig and allowed a friend to use frost and glow honey color the cap wasnt placed right so the dye went on the whole front part of my growing out burgundy colored hair, the result is yellow,orange streaks all in the front of my hair...its been 3 days ive been conditioning dont care to go blond just want normal looking hair, light brown to brown will work for me!! :( please help

    • Em 11 months ago

      Hi, Can you help me (query above)?

      Thanks

    • Larmitch 11 months ago

      IMG_4416.jpeg I'm trying to reach blonde what should I do??

    • Katey Beach profile image

      Katey Beach 11 months ago

      Hi Maffew, I think it's great that you are still replying to this thread! I have been trying to get professional advice for my hair for ages and have been unable to get any without going to a salon! I have past-shoulder length hair, and it is thick and unruly wavy, which drives me crazy but hairdressers love (or do you all say that?). Anyway, I have spent the last 15 years dying my hair black, and stopped probably about 2 years ago. My natural colour is dark brown but have always had some major red in it under natural light. The handful of times I have wanted to bleach my hair it would never go all the way to blonde, just orange mainly at the ends and mid lengths and yellow at the top/roots. Obv this is my virgin hair vs my dyed hair.

      So I have purposefully not dyed my hair now for 2 years, and so have (greying, I'm 30) virgin hair to about my chin, and still some abused hair down the bottom which has faded to a dark reddish brown. I recently decided that to combat the inevitable greying, I want to go lighter, and so have been doing weekly bleach baths, using blue bleach powder and 20vol developer. After 4 weeks of this, my hair has gone MASSIVELY ginger which is quite amusing but nothing I am hiding shamefully. It's pretty cool lol. Anyway, my temples are very blonde, and the majority of my hair a bright copper orange, and the ends and underneath still a dark copper. My dream is to get to a light ash blonde, which I will be able to put much lighter highlights through. Should I keep going with the bleach baths? Will that be enough or should I be doing a 'proper' bleach on the darker parts now?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 11 months ago

      Hi Katey,

      Either way is fine, but whether you choose to continue with the bleach bath or perform a full bleach, it would be best to focus this on the darker areas only until everything becomes more even. This will make toning much easier in the end because it all needs to be the same level to be toned properly.

      If this can't be achieved, there are ways to work around this once it is light enough, like filling it and dyeing over it all to take it to the same depth.

    • StephΠ10 months ago

      What color can you put over bleached hair which is pale yellow

      Will I have to re pig don't want to be too dark. Can you re pig with just one color.

      So grateful for your help.

      What color would you recommend

      Would appreciate

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 10 months ago

      Hi Steph,

      Were you just wanting to tone it to a nice shade of blonde, or intending on going darker?

      If you want to tone it, I'd recommend using 10P or 10A and process until you like the look. IE, leave for longer if you want a cooler result, or rinse out sooner for a beige to neutral result. A 10 is 'lightest blonde', and the letters 'P' and 'A' are pearl and ash, respectively. Both are violet based at that level, although the ash shade is more intense and can contain a trace of blue in some brands (Which creates a soft silver result). At level 10, the dye is light enough to be used to tone pale yellow hair without over-processing. If you do need a stronger toner, you can use the same shades in level 9.

      To go darker, the colour you use to fill depends on the level of the colour you want to change to. Ideally, it should be at least 1 level lighter than the new shade you want to achieve, in the colour of the base tone for the desired level. Eg, level 7 has a golden base tone, so you need 8G as the filler. It's fine to use a shade 2 levels lighter if your hair is very porous, which it does tend to be once bleached to a pale blonde colour. This will keep it from ending up too dark. In this situation, the final colour would also need to be lighter than intended because more of it will be absorbed by the hair. I can give more specific recommendation if you're able to tell me what level you want to change to. Eg, dark blonde, light brown, etc.

    • Steph 10 months ago

      Many thanks for your help James, it is gratefully appreciated.

      The shade of color which I would like to have is a level 7 medium blonde.

      I currently use to us Clynol 7.0 medium blonde, and it was a nice shade, which I was happy with.

      I really want to get the same color back as it was, even if the highlights are a little visible.

      I would be very grateful for your instructions.

      Many many thanks to you for your advise and expertise.

      Kind regards.

      Steph.

    • Steph 10 months ago

      Sorry for the typing mistakes meant to put.

      I currently used to use Clynol ( 7 .0 ) Medium Blonde.

      This is the shade I would like to go back to if it is possible without it being too orange.

      THANK YOU SO MUCH JAMES.

    • Steph 10 months ago

      So if I re pig with an 8 G then use the 7/0 Medium blonde will this take me back to my original shade without throwing too much orange.

      What products would you recommend for the re pig.as I will carefully follow your instructions. Was wondering if you can fill the hair with perhaps a semi permanent then use the medium blonde shade afterwards.

    • Alaa 10 months ago

      Hello, i have wrongly dyed my hair into orange and i want the Avril blonde , how can i do it?? Like Avril lavgeine's hair color , i am confused about what colour should i choose , am gonna bleach it again today but i dont know what to do next

    • Nadia 10 months ago

      Hey Maffew. Really loving this blog. So much information. I'm in the middle of a crisis. I put a golden brown over my grey toned hair. (The grey was around a 9 and the golden brown was around a 5). My hair ended up turning pumpkin orange at around a 5. I had semi permanent blue hair dye that I mixed with conditioner to create a toner. The toner worked wonderfully on 1/3rd of my head. The other thirds are green and still very pumpkin orange. All around a 5. I had used the dye to make toner before and it's always worked super well for me but I guess my hair just didn't want to take it today. I was wondering to balance out the green and the red, from what I've gotten from the blog, I should use a neutral tone blonde permanent dye that is around a 7 to help tone and balance out my awkward hair. The neutral would be an inner seen for golden and ash if I am correct so in theory, my hair should even out. Am I wrong with my theory? Any advice possibly would be awesome. Thanks so much. (:

    • Brenda Gretchen 10 months ago

      Hello! I'm learning so much! Thank you!

      Can you please advise me... I have a natural level 5/6, and have been coloring with e Salon for several months, (I don't know the levels of what they sent, but the first color (demi) was too dark.) Over the next few months, I tried going a little lighter, plus my grey was fading within two weeks. So I repeatedly colored, mainly on my roots, and then pulling through. I complained that my grey was resistent though only 15% grey, so they increased developer to 20%. I colored every month for 8 months, and had developed a dark band.

      Now, I'm starting over - With professional products. I used Color Vanish on my hair twice and I was amazed at how the dye lifted, and was unprepared for the underlying pigment to be so Orange.

      I then used Koleston Perfect on my base: 7/0, 7/7, 7/75 and 8/2 in equal parts with 20 vol dev. On the ends, I used Color Touch 7/0 7/7 with 13 vol dev. The results are not what I wanted. The roots were obnoxiously Orange Brown. The rest of my length was more dark brown than Orange, and darker than my base. Too dark. I did not know what else to do but take the same Color Touch 7/7 and 7/0 And go over the roots too. It at least it now better matches my ends. I do not like it. Obviously, I need some ash shades in my next formula, and want to go lighter all over.

      I wonder if the vanish that took my base to Orange had some effect on the new color's result? Please Help! I was going to keep with the Koleston products as I have developers for these.

      (I was told Koleston runs a full level darker, that's why I was using 7's to start with. I do want to go lighter and correct my tone.

      I want a cool very light brown/ dark blonde. I have blue eyes, fair skin. My hair is medium texture, healthy, past shoulder length.)

      I guess I need to buy a few boxes of vanish again, and start this all over. Do I need a thirty volume developer This time? I was thinking of using all level 8?- Like 8/0, 8/1, 8/71?? But because the 7's were oddly soooo dark, maybe I should go for a 9.01 in there?

    • Diana 9 months ago

      Hi! I used a permanent dye lighter than my hair and i was not happy with the results! It was so brassy! I tried toning it and it just turned a lighter brassy shade... So I freaked out and put a darker permanent shade and it turned it back to a dark orange shade.. So I toned it again and it went back to a light brassy shade.. And so I gave up and went to a hair salon to fix it.. I asked for my natural color so I could just grow out this mess (I'm a dishwasher blonde) And I was happy with the results but it's only been 2 weeks and I'm starting to see my hair look brassy again!? What's going on and how do I fix this?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 9 months ago

      Hi Diana,

      With the original dye, the issue would have been that the dye either wasn't cool toned or the shade was too light. Lightening and colouring are related but separate processes that occur separately when you apply permanent hair dye, so it is possible for your hair to lighten well, but not be toned at all if the shade is too light to affect your hair. Same situation with the toner in that it simply lightened more without affecting the colour because the shade wasn't correct (too light / not ash).

      As for the fading that is occurring now, this is due to the fact that your colour isn't natural anymore. Hair dye will fade regardless of whether it is permanent or not, which often leads to a shade becoming lighter and losing vibrancy. In your case, the dye fading means that the warmth begins to appear again because it is the cool tone added by the dye that is neutralising the appearance of this.

      The best way to fix this will depend on your personal preferences and time because you can use anything from blonde shampoo to semi-permanent mousses to another dye to refresh the colour. A good blonde shampoo can act as the only product needed as long as it's strong enough, and the right tone to deal with your warmth. Violet shampoo is perfect for correcting yellow tones, but you need increasing amounts of blue tone to deal with any orange if your hair looks more golden or copper when fading. Blonde shampoos that contain varying amounts of blue tone are generally referred to as silver shampoo. If you let me know how dark your hair is, and whether the warmth looks more yellow, golden, or copper I can help recommend a blonde shampoo that will work for you. The right shampoo can be used in place of your regular shampoo to prevent and reverse the appearance of warmth in your hair.

      For other methods, consider semi-permanent mousses / gels / creams as an easy option because they can be applied for a few minutes after shampooing to tone your hair. Again, you need to base product choice on what your hair looks like. Most brands of mousse produce several different levels and you need to choose the one that is at the right level and has an ash tone in order to neutralise warmth. Ideally, choose a mousse or other semi-permanent product that is 1 - 2 levels lighter than your own hair. Eg, if your hair is dark blonde, which is a level 6, you can use Igora Expert Mousse 8-1, but a lighter shade than this won't produce much of an effect, and a darker shade would over-process and lead to darkening and a grey or heavy ash result. Same scenario with dye choice when using a demi-permanent or permanent dye as the toner.

    • Amy 9 months ago

      Hello! I need help!!!!! I dyed my virgin hair Ion demi permanent 3W Dark Warm Brown. So I want to go back to my natural hair color which is ashy brown. So I didn't want to bleach my hair because I never have and it scares me and I refuse to pay a hairstylist money to screw my hair up when I can do that myself:) And did....... So I surfed the internet and used vitamin c powder mixed with shampoo to "naturally" lighten my hair which it did and now it's orange. On top of that I wanted some highlights and I put some peroxide on some of my bangs and that area is extra orange. So I just ordered Ion demi permanent 9N Lightest ash blonde and plan on using 10 developer. Will this work?

    • Amy 9 months ago

      Maffew, I left out a letter in the dye I ordered. I ordered Ion Demi permanent 9 NA (Lightest Ash Blonde) to tone all the orange. Will this work. I don't mind if it doesn't match my natural hair, my main concern is getting the orange and red tones out!!!!

      Thank you so much for your help!:) I really appreciate it!

    • Amy 9 months ago

      Or should I return the ion 9NA (Lightest Ash Blonde) and buy loreal Paris Superior Preference Fade Defying Color + Shine System in 6A (Light Ash Brown) Cooler......... I understand I need to offset with the opposite color but I don't understand when searching for a hair color that's cool how do I know if it's a purple, green, or blue undertone.

      Break down of exactly what I've done to my hair.

      - Colored with ion 3W Dark Warm Brown which left my hair with some red undertones for the past couple of years using a 10 developer.

      - So I decided to lighten my hair to try to get my natural hair color to grow out more evenly. My natural hair color is light ashy brown.

      - I crushed up vitamin c pills to natural lighten hair instead of bleaching all over and it worked. I'd say it lightened my hair at least 2 shades leaving with a lighter warm orange brown shade. I'd say my back hair is okay and the vitamin c mixture removed the demi permanent hair dye for the most part.

      - I wanted apply some highlights on the front of my face on the bangs and side, so I used some Hydrogen Peroxide and took a toothbrush and place streaks in my hair which have now turned carrot orange.

      I can live with the shade it is in the back but the front is f@#%ed up where I apply the straight peroxide.

    • Brenda Gretchen 9 months ago

      Hi Maffew,

      I am normally 5/6, (lighter on the ends). I recently colored my base using Koleston Perfect 7/0, 7/7, 7/75 and 8/2 in equal parts with 20 vol dev. On the ends, I used Color Touch 7/0 7/7 with 13 vol dev. It was too copper. I know need some ash in my next formula, and want to go lighter too. (I plan on using Vanish First).

      If I want to go to a 7/8, do I need 30 vol developer or should I use 40? I should do base to ends right, then refresh ends with color touch and use Koleston on base only moving forward, correct?

    • Littlebit 9 months ago

      Hello,

      I was hoping for a little guidance and some reassurance on my plan I have to dye my hair:)

      I dyed my hair the same color for the past 5 years. It's a box dye made by Ion which is level 3W. It's a dark warm brown. I'd like to go back or near my natural hair color which is a golden Ash blondish brown. I've been removing the demi dye with household products such as baking soda, etc. It has lightened up to a reddish orange. I've never bleached my hair. I've read your article on "How to Bleach Hair" and "How to fix orange hair". Here's my plan! I would really take to your approval before going any further. So here it goes......

      1st step - Mix 2 parts 20 volume peroxide and 1 part bleach powder. Applying only to my dark parts and roots. Leave in up to an hour or at least when it turns an ugly orange.

      2nd step - Wash out and apply conditioner

      3rd step - Mix Walla 6A Dark Ash Blonde with 10 volume developer and apply for required time it says on directions.

      I've read mixed reviews on using 10 vs. 20 Volume Creme Developer. I don't want blonde hair so that's why I'm gravitating towards 10 developer.

      Anyways, I'd leave your feedback. Love your articles they've been soo informative and useful:)

      With kindest regards, Littlebit

    • Lily 9 months ago

      Hello,

      Just love your blog! You are very knowledgeable. I have question about toners if you could help. Once I bleach my hair to orange and apply a brown ash toner and decide after a few days I don't like the undertones, can I get the same level number but different letter on the dye box. Example, say I put 5A on but want less ash can I tone it with a 5N or even a 5W?

    • Beachygirl 9 months ago

      This thread is great! I have hair similar to the photo of caramel brown at the top of your article. Roots were 2" of ashy brown, sides were lighter brown dyed with color silk light brown many times (turning orange) and front chunks of lighter blond from multiple home highlight experiments (turning lighter orange). Task was how to blend dark roots with some grays at part line with the multitude of shades going on below.

      I learned about level 10 Ion developer (not lifting or stripping color just allowing dye to work) and Ion Demi color (just deposit color not permanent strip and change). No PPDs or ammonia.

      Took Ion Demi level 7n medium natural blond and 7na medium Ashe blond and did strand tests separately using 1:2 ratio.

      (1 portion dye to 2 equal portion developer)

      First test: ash blond turned it greenish.

      Second test: natural turned it reddish.

      Mixed dyes together 50/50, 1:2 ratio

      Strand test: good!

      Loosely braided blond sections to keep them out of first steps. Then...

      Applied blended mix to roots first for 5 minutes. Then applied most of mixture to brown/orange previously dyed hair for 5 more minutes. Then undid braided blond and applied the rest for 4 minutes.

      Ran to sink to rinse with conditioner twice.

      Results: perfect! No green, no red, just light brown, blended roots, blond is covered but still very highlighted by comparison.

      Next time I'll leave roots on longer to cover grey better as I know this Demi will quickly fade.

      But that's the beauty of experimenting with Demi dye and #10 developer- it's not forever but it covers well.

      When you have green eyes and naturally brown hair and you get it back to a light brown from Bozo brassy blondy/brown you immediately see your skin tone look better and eyes pop. That orange blond just washes your skin out and makes you look older!

      Good luck and thanks.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 9 months ago

      Hi Maria95,

      How effective was the 8.1 for toning? Did it take most of the warmth out as it lightened, make it too ashy, or left it too warm. This will give you some indication of how dark your hair is and which shade will need to be used to tone it. If the 8.1 toned nicely originally when it was dyed, feel free to use this again to tone it, either as demi-permanent, or, as permanent using a weak developer to prevent further lightening whilst it tones.

      If it looked too ashy when it was originally coloured, this is an indication that 9.1 will be better suited as the toner. Vice versa, if it was too warm, you will want to use the 8.1 mixed with 7.1, or use 7.1 by itself if necessary. Of course, the availability of the '.1' shades at each level will depend on brand. Most brands have 6 through 10 in ash, but some skip certain levels. Rather than '.1' or '/1' etc, some brands may also use a letter to signify the ash, which is usually 'A', although this too varies with brand (Eg, De Lorenzo uses the letter 'C', indicating 'cool' to refer to their ash shades). If in doubt at any point, match the required level and look at the naming of the shade to determine the tone. Eg, 7.1 or 7A is called medium ash blonde.

    • Kido Zuko 9 months ago

      HI SIR. I badly need your expertise and help. So here's my case, I have a natural black hair. My last dye was about a year ago then this time I decided to go for a light ash blonde/gray. Of course I did it by myself at home. So I bleached my hair first for about 45 mins then I end up with a blonde. Then I let my hair rest for 3 days then I bleached it again this time I end up with orange hair then after bleaching I washed my hair. Because it seems so dry and porous I applied some conditioner then I let it dry. Then on the same day I apply the light ash blonde dye I bought. I let it do its thing for about 40mins then I end up with having less ash blonde and more blonde hair. What exactly should I do to achieve that light ash blonde color? Should I apply that same dye (light ash blonde) again or should I go with a toner? Please help me out. Thankyou very much.

    • S.O.S 9 months ago

      Hello, I'm hoping that you can help me!

      I naturally have light brown hair but have been diet darker brown for a long time at the salon. Yesterday I went to the salon going for a dark blonde luck with highlights. My stylist was busy juggling multiple people at one time, and after bleach and toning my hair looks tangerine… She set up another appointment for two weeks from now to "fix it " but I have appointments at work coming up that I cannot leave it like this and I do not want to go back to that salon give them any more money.

      If I dye it myself and use a dark ash blonde, will this work? I'm looking at a level 7A? Currently some of my hair is a level seven and some of it is a level six, but all of it ranges from orange tangerine. I would sincerely appreciate any suggestions you have on how to fix this debacle!

      Thank you.

    • Madison 9 months ago

      I used to dye my hair bright red. I let it fade out for almost two years but the bottom of my hair still had an orange tint. My natural hair is light brown and I went to Sally's to buy a dye that would cover up the orange. The lady told me to buy a light brown ash color. I tried it and it ended up making all my hair an orange tint. Any ideas as to why it turned all my hair orange? And any ideas as to how I can get rid of the orange (seeing that I already tried ash and it made it all orange)? Thank you!!

    • Sarah Shahid 9 months ago

      hello.. okay i have a question.. i had grey hair and due to excessive dying it turned out that they cant be dyed a lighter shade. then this saloon bleached my hair and dyed it a lighted shade. now the issue is as i rinse the dye washes out and i am left with yellowish orangish color - which I HATE! What should i do?

    • Yvette Saldana 9 months ago

      Hi! Thanks for yoyur advice! You seem more calm about orange hair than others haha! While I'm actually ok with my red/orange hair, it's not where I want it to be yet. I'm going for Ariana's ombred dark brown/light brown to light ash beigey blonde. But I'm kinda stuck cuz to not use "actual bleach" I used Loreal's "Ombre Touch" kit in "dark brown OT4" & now I'm stuck with red/orange ends. Is there a way to send you a pic so that maybe you can help tell me what my next step should be? Ill send you what my hair is now & where I want it to be.

    • Jamielynk 8 months ago

      I have natural reddish orangish hair and I want to dye it a brownish/blondish color. What would you recommend?

    • Nadege 8 months ago

      Hello! First of all, this is THE best and most informative article I've read on hair coloring. Thank you for that. So here's my issue... I have natural dark dark brown African American hair and I wanted to lighten it to a honey blond color. I went to my stylist and long story short I ended up with orange hair. I tried to color correct it by using wella 7g 7/3 and it made the color a bit more bearable. I just purchased wella 7a 7/1 medium ash blond will that help? I also bought Clairol natural instincts 8a. Not sure which is best. Thank you so much!!

    • mileycisamazing 8 months ago

      Can someone please help??? I have brown hair and i decided that I wanted a peekaboo hair dyed hair style. Now it is a drug store crappy blonde! Help! What do I do?? I need help. And I dont have money to go to a salon!

    • Elizabeth 8 months ago

      Every time I have my naturally dark hair dyed at the salon, within a week it starts to turn orange. My stylist seems unable to address this, please can you help

    • Rachel 8 months ago

      Plz help. I have naturally medium brown hair,everytime I try to dye it brown it shines very coppery especially in sun light. Last time I died it I used koleston 6/1 but I still have coppery tones. Why is this and how can I fix it?? Thanks

    • Miriam 8 months ago

      HI!

      I did a bleach wash to lighten my already dyed Level 7-8 brown, I did the bleach bath for 20 minutes, and then dyed with a 5-6 RN Wella, (I mixed a few dyes I had), Now my hair is about a Level 5 though I still have lots of orange especially at ends. Based on my research, I think I'll wait a few days then tone with a 10vol developer with Wella 8/1 as you mentioned in an older post? Any recommendations? thanks so much! I love your website!

      Best

      Miriam

    • Miriam 8 months ago

      update: I super conditioned my hair then I did 10vol dev with Wella 8a dye, for 30 minutes and the super orange is gone! I still have warmth but much less orange! I feel I learned so much through this post and your help, I can't thank you enough!!!

      I also used Redken CAT and it really did help! My hair does not feel course as it has in previous color/bleach bath jobs I've done to myself. Too bad I can't get Igora expert mousse here in NYC!

      thanks!!!!!

    • Megs 8 months ago

      Omg!!! So I have dark brown almost black hair with red foils. I wanted to go a magenta or purple/rasberry tone. So I bleached my hair. My roots are bright white almost and then the rest is light orange. Can I still dye my hair with the semi permanent dare no8 rasberry sorbet. I really don't want to go back black it's just my roots are soooo White. I have a wedding to go to in 2 days please help

    • Emma 8 months ago

      Ok so I have a problem. I dyed my hair a redish-brown just over a month ago. But I absolutely hated it! So I decided to go to a dirty blonde/light brown. So I used a colour removed (as suggested by a hair salon) and it turned it a horrible orange. Then I tried dying it the blonde/brown colour.... But it didn't work. My hair is still the awful orange and I don't know what to do! Please help! I don't want to leave the house like this!!

    • Shana 8 months ago

      Hi,

      I dyed my hair an ash brown and now want to add some blonde balayage to it. after I do this, I will want to tone my hair. Will the toner affect my already brown hair? Should I use a 10 volume developer instead of 20? I used a toner on my brown hair in the past and it made it turn an orange ugly color.

    • Septemburr 8 months ago

      I dyed my hair med brown, I have red copper highlights, how can I get rid of the red totally

    • Mallory 7 months ago

      I had dyed my hair dark and it faded out from the sun to orange. Added highlights and now it is different shades of orange, some blonde, and dark brown. I want it to be a light ash brown color with a few blonde highlights. What should I do?

    • Jeffrey 7 months ago

      I died my hair myself and it kinda turned the blondish brown I wanted, then I bleached it turned orange guess didn't leave it long enough, and then again the dye. My question is will washing my hair cause the color to fade to light brown? Or will I have to rebleach it?

    • Sneha 7 months ago

      Pleaseeee Helpp me!!!

      I am Indian so my natural hair is black. Two years ago in 2014 I had highlights for the first tym. I loved it but my hair got damaged so I gave them break. Now couple days ago I went to this salon and asked the girl for balayage . I told her I want them to look natural and asked her for caramel/brown color for my dark hair. However the color didn't come out the way i wanted it to be. It looks more orangish/brown. I don't like it at all . plz tell me the products i need because i don't want to go to a salon again and go thru all over again. Your article was the only thing i found helpful after going thru youtube videos. Hope to hear from you. Thank youu

    • Carol 7 months ago

      Hai, i have a black asian hair. I coloured my hair ash brown (it turns out medium brown with slightly orange/red undertone) a year ago. Im thinking to colour my hair again with pravana 8.1 light ash blonde. But im affraid my hair will turn out orange since i dont want to bleach my hair. What do you think? Thankyouu so much.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 7 months ago

      Hi Carol,

      The Pravana 8.1 won't actually take your hair to light blonde unfortunately; there's just too much lightening required for that. What will happen in this situation is that the dye will lighten your hair 1 - 4 levels depending on the developer volume used and resistance of the hair, but the pigment present in the dye is at level 8. This pigment won't neutralise any warmth in your hair and will leave you with orange hair as a result. Ideally, reconsider the use of bleach, or even taking the more gentle route of a bleach bath for the best results with how dark your hair is.

      Otherwise, if you're happy to deal with varying shades of warm brown and orange, that dye can be used and then reapplied once a week until it lightens to at least golden and can then be toned to blonde. Each successive application will usually result in less lightening however, and bleach still remains the more reliable option.

      Of course, if you only want to lighten your hair a little with that dye, that's fine too and it will work for this, but the pigment strength still means it will turn orange as a result. You'd need to tone separately to neutralise that warmth and arrive at a natural looking brown result. The better option is to use the level of brown you want in Pravana in an ash shade, with 20, 30, or 40 vol as the developer depending on lift required. This will tone properly as it lightens because the ash pigment present in the dye is the right level to correct warmth in your darker hair.

    • Miranda V. 7 months ago

      Hi Maffew! I just read this entire thread and am so impressed! Wow! I am a natural level 8 about 20/30% grey, and dye my hair a level 7 with the bottom half all blonde level 10. The problem is I always get warmth in my level 7, but I am really going for a dirty dark blonde/ light mousy brown-compeltely ash. I would love to be a mousy level 8 (like Gigi's new hair color), but I get even more warmth so I use the 7. I am using Wella Color Touch 7/89 and have tried 7/1. I only use 6 vol now so my base doesn't lift and go warm underneath as that is what my stylist was thinking was happening before when I was sing a higher volume. Can you suggest any way I can get my light brown to be totally ash? Thank you in advance for any suggestions, its driving me crazy! :)

    • Karen J 7 months ago

      Hi Maffew, Don't know if you can advise me. I have dyed my hair for years. My natural hair was mousey brown, but I mostly dyed it blonde, a few months ago I decided to go copper/auburn and put a permanent dye on which faded within a week, so since then I was using a semi called adore in Cajun spice. I left it to fade and it faded to a light copper brown, but I thought I would put a colour remover on as when I have used these in the past they have removed the red/copper colour but this just turned my hair a light orange. I then put on a Castings semi permanent in light brown 600 which is what I am now. I know this is going to fade each time I wash it, but what am I best to use to completely get rid of the red/orange underneath. I would be happy to go to a light brown, but not sure if I need to use an ash brown or a natural brown, and does it need to be a permanent colour to neutralise the orange?

    • Theresa C. 7 months ago

      Hi Maffew! I am a natural 7 ashy color and trying to go back to my natural hair color. I thought I was lighter, so I had a 9 ash on my hair, and I let my roots get about 2" long to make sure what my natural color was. I applied 8N on my whole head and my roots turned a brassy, goldish/auburn color. I was trying to get everything the same shade and just let it grow out, but clearly I made a mistake. I have again let my roots grow out to 2"+, but the reddish/goldish hair band is still there & mid-shaft to end is a dark blonde (so essentially my hair is 3 colors). Roots 2" 7 ashy color, mid-shaft 2" brassy tone, & rest is dark blonde 8-9. How should I remove the hair band sir?

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 7 months ago

      Hi Miranda,

      The Color Touch Special Mixes can be used with other Color Touch dyes to increase the concentration of specific tones, like ash, and this can be an easy way to help decrease warmth. If you can base your choice of mix on the specific tones you're seeing, that will be most effective. For this, add small amounts of the 0/88 to counteract orange, or 0/68 to counteract gold tones.

      The first mix is pure blue, whilst the second is violet with a dash of blue. You just need to be careful not to use too much because they are pure tones and a little will go a long way.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 7 months ago

      Hi Karen,

      You're likely seeing some residual orange tone from the semi-permanent dye because this won't be removed by dye remover. It could also be related to the buildup of warm tone from dyeing your hair a few times, as dye remover becomes less effective the more times your hair has been dyed before using it.

      Natural brown will reduce warmth if the level is darker than your hair currently is, but it's not best for this because it's working more on the mechanism of darkening your hair to cover the warmth rather than neutralise it. A natural shade is generally fairly balanced in terms of all three primary colours and the tonal direction, although it can be slightly warm or cool depending on brand. Ash will counteract the warmth properly because the cool tone is more dominant and this is required for toning.

      As for getting rid of the orange, permanent ash brown is the best option, matched to the level of your hair. Ideally, use an ash brown that is at the same level as your hair, or 1 level lighter for toning. Leave this to develop until all the warmth is neutralised. Demi-permanent and semi-permanent are fine to use for this too, but fading will be quicker. Even a permanent will fade over time and begin to show warmth again, so you may prefer to use the permanent and then refresh the colour once a month or so with a semi-permanent dye in the same shade. Another option is to use an ash brown shampoo like De Lorenzo Cool Naturals to help reduce fading, or a semi-permanent mousse after shampooing.

    • Maffew James profile image
      Author

      Maffew James 7 months ago

      Hi Theresa,

      Assuming the middle band is close to the same level as the ends, you should be able to get it fairly even by using different volumes of developer and 8A. Eg, if you want to lift the roots 2 levels to match the ends, use 8A or 9A with 20 vol developer and apply here first, then apply the same shade of dye with 5 or 10 vol developer to the mid-lengths towards the end of processing to tone that area, and finally to the ends for the last few minutes with 5 vol to blend everything. If the middle band is still a little too dark, use a higher developer to allow for extra lightening while it tones.

      Another alternative is to bleach bath it to get the darkest areas to the level you want, then fill with the right base tone and finish with a mix of natural and ash blonde at the desired level to even it all out. Eg, if preferring to reach level 9, bleach bath everything down to that level, then fill with pale yellow (10G), and finish the colour using a mix of 9N and 9A. Use less 9A or none for a result that is neutral or beige blonde. What this process does is it takes the darkest hair to level 9, then fills the lighter hair back in to that same level with the pale yellow tone that would normally be present at that level before dyeing over to darken it all back up to the correct level and desired tone.

    • Miranda V. 7 months ago

      I will try this and report back! Thank you ever so much!!!!!

    • Nicola 7 months ago

      Please help! Today I bleached my light brown dyed hair. It's gone a really light Orange colour but some parts of the roots are a yellow/white colour. I've bought a natural ultra light ash blonde nice n easy box dye. How do I apply it? I'm terrified it goes green or grey.

    • PiperJames profile image

      PiperJames 7 months ago from OKC, OK (for now)

      I really want to go back to my natural color, and stop coloring. If I am naturally a 7A/N, what should I do? Thank you so much!

    • PiperJames profile image

      PiperJames 7 months ago from OKC, OK (for now)

      Can I use V-lights bleach (Matrix) and color in the same step? Mix the v-lights with 20-V developer and 7A, so it bleaches color & deposits color in the same step? Or would you just use 7A with 20 V developer, to lift and deposit?

    • Mistake in NZ 7 months ago

      Hi, embarrassingly, I stupidly decided to use a L'Oreal highlighting kit to do all my roots and crown, which of course looked horrible- yellow and orange and over the top. Do not know what I was thinking. My hair is a dirty/mousey blondey brown naturally and my roots and crown were that colour before this rookie mistake. The rest of my (long) hair has various blonde and light brown colours in it from highlighting/getting foils periodically and looks fine. So I read your post and used L'Oreal Excllence creme in 8.1 Ash Blonde a day after the bleaching disaster, just on the problem areas. I think I probably didn't leave it on long enough (only half the recommended time) as it definitely helped tone things down but my crown is still fairly orange. I just want to get it back looking at least semi natural so my question is this. Will using the Excellence creme in 6.1 in Light Ash Brown give me the fix I am after or should I try the 8.1 again or even 9.1? Or should I not be using the ash colours at all? I'm fine if my roots and crown are darker than the rest of my hair, I'd prefer it to be darker rather than lighter now. I'll just give my hair a break for a while and then put some highlights back in (properly this time!) I live in the middle of nowhere and only have access to the L'Oreal Excellence line from the local shop.

      Thank you so much for all your posts, I was frantically googling fixes at 5 am and your recommendation to use an ash blonde at least got me to a point where I'm not embarrassed to go out in public!!

    • Mistake in NZ - no longer orange!! 7 months ago

      Hi again, just wanted to say don't waste your time on my ridiculous mistake! I went for it with the 6.1 because it was really my only option and the orange issue was bothering me so much. I only did the problem areas and left in on for just over ten minutes, once I could see the dreaded orange was covered. Voila! It's definitely a bit flat and mousey, as to be expected from a box dye but all I cared about was getting rid of the orange. It's probably still an improvement on the state of my roots prior to the bleach fiasco. I wanted to sincerely thank you for the information you have shared. I learned so much about colours through this process. I definitely know now to respect bleach for what it is, and to just stick I my really basic highlights for DIY especially given that I can't easily get good products to use at home. Seriously, thank you, thank you, thank you!!

    • Kaye 7 months ago

      Hi,

      I have totally white hair so went to salon for a few lowlights. She put in some black in the top but too many and too chunky. I didn't like at all so went back and she lightened with Scruples lightest blonde and 40v developer (twice) but now I have orange highlights. She said to wait a few weeks and then she would reapply color. Anything I can try more immediate? Any way to make them gray?

      Thanks

    • Alisha 7 months ago

      Hi there! Ive recently coloured my roots which are a ash light brown to 11:11 however i measured the mixture incorrectly and my roots turned out bright orange. I corrected it with applying a loreal 8.1 hair pack from the supermarket (i was desperate!) And spread throughout my 10 level ends to make it a black colour.This corrected it somewhat but each wash my hair is getting lighter even tho it was a permanent colour and the orange is showing again. My hair is damaged and fine. How do i fix the orage roots without damaging my hair too much? I suit medium to dark blonde but whats my options? Thanks

    • c.venegas1002@gmail.com 6 months ago

      Question!

      I am addicted to reading all these posts I'm hoping you'll be able to help my hair problem as well!

      I went to a pro and got by hair bleached balayage it looked good but just couldn't get use to it, I then went over it with dark brown, my hair took it pretty well no greens tones that I was told I would possibly get, I kept that for about 2 months then last month I did a bight red (loreal hi color in magenta) to be exact. I rocked that for a little while and discovered color oops, I did that last night and now I'm stuck with a orange/carmeley brownish hair color. I would like to achieve a light brown/dark blonde and after doing a little bit of research I want it to match my skin tone so it doesn't look so dull on me, (I'm a warm tone)

      Any help would be great!!

    • Alia 6 months ago

      Hello. Ineed help urgentlyyyyy!! I went to the hairdress yesterday and asked.her to dye my hair chocolate brown or ash brown(notdark brown). My actual hair color is black , not very dark though.When she colorWhat has happened here is that your hairdresser didn't use the right dye. When lightening hair, the dye should be an ash shade to counteract the warmth. Otherwise you will end up with orange hair instead of a nice brown colour. You can fix it by applying a light ash shade to counteract the orange. Use a dark ash blonde mixed with 10 vol developer and allow this to develop until your colour has toned to your desired shade. Rinse it out as soon as it reaches the right coloured my hair, the end result was dark brown color on the lower end and organgish brown color on the top. I told her to change it and make it even, so she applied some color again and the roots became more orange, then she applied color only to the roots, but still same. I went to her again in the evening and she colored my hair again the third time and now it's a weird dark brown orangish color.I really don't know what to do. I have a function coming next week and I can't look like this. I also want to let you know that when she applied the color first time, it came out very quickly while she was applying. I want to have my original hair color back, is it possible after coloring so many times? Or how can I change this color to ash brown or get rid of this dark brown color?please help.

    • aliaakhan 6 months ago

      Sorry for the mess up above.

      Hello. Ineed help urgentlyyyyy!! I went to the hairdress yesterday and asked.her to dye my hair ash brown(notdark brown). My actual hair color is black , not very dark though. When she coloured my hair, the end result was dark brown color on the lower end and organgish brown color on the top. I told her to change it and make it even, so she applied some color again and the roots became more orange, then she applied color only to the roots, but still same. I went to her again in the evening and she colored my hair again the third time and now it's a weird dark reddish brown color. I really don't know what to do. I have a function coming next week and I can't look like this. I also want to let you know that when she applied the color first time, it came out very quickly while she was applying. I want to have my original hair color back, is it possible after coloring so many times? Or how can I change this color to ash brown or get rid of this dark brown color?please help

    • Tanya 6 months ago

      Hi, I have just spent the whole morning crying as my natural dark blonde with greying hair is now orange. I put in a natural hair dye by desert shadow and I hate the colour I did this beacause of grey and didn't want to use chemicals on my hair but now I don't know what to do it looks terrible!!!! Any advice would be much appreciated

    • Tifany 6 months ago

      Hello!

      I originally highlighted my dark brown hair with a medium brown color with a few darker red highlights and ended up hating it because it was redder than I expected and not even- i.e. some highlights were darker at the roots than the ends and vice-versa. *Mistake Number 1.

      I went to a local Sally's and thr girl recommended I use purple shampoo to tone some of the red down, which it did. I could still see the red/orange though and decided to go further.

      When I got my haircut, my stylist said yo try a toner, but nothing darker than a 6A, in order to balance it out. So off to Sally's I go. This time, an associate (different city and store) recommend a 7NA and a 6N with a 10 vol. developer in the Ion Demi-Permanent line. It did cover it up more, but I don't think I left it in long enough because I could still see it!

      So yet another trip to my local Sally's, a young lady recommended Clairol Premium Creme Demi Hair Color 6A Dark Cool Blonde with a Clairol Pure White Developer 10 Volume Creme. This turned my roots ORANGE! It neutralized my red from about my ears down.

      I freaked out and went back yesterday. A different associate told me use the purple Ion shampoo on hot towel dried hair and blow dry it because the heat would help open up the hair cuticle to absorb more of the purple color needed to neutralize. I said I needed an option B in case that didn't work and she gave me Wella Color Charm permanent liquid hair toner in T10 pale blonde along with a 10 volume developer.

      I tried it last night, and my whole head is a strawberry blonde/orange, especially at the roots!

      I'm at my wits end now! What started out as highlights turned into hell lights. I had natural highlights from the sun that were golden/honey/sunkissed looking which is what I wanted from the get go, but the boxes (Mistake Number 2*) that said blonde scared me and I didn't want to use them so my hair wouldn't end up orange- like it is now!

      Any suggestions/help is welcome! At this point I'm considering getting a dark brown permanent (eek) color and dying my whole head to be done with this fiasco!

      Thank you!

    • Clare 6 months ago

      Hi, I have just finished a college course where I was advised that you can't use a base colour without a tone i.e. you can't dye hair with well 4.0 or 5.0 you have to have a tone with it so 5.1 or 3.16 etc as if you didn't have tones it wouldn't do anything. Reading through your posts this seems incorrect. Can you confirm this.

    • Sammie1170 6 months ago

      I've been using the same hairdresser for a loooong time (30 yrs!) and last weekend, I had the worst colouring experience ever.

      My natural colour is brown, but I've been blonde for a long time, so 7 months ago, decided to be brunette again. Obviously, due to extensive bleaching previously, the colour faded rapidly, so decided to become golden blonde.

      Once the colour was washed off, my hair was left a dark blonde colour, which I quite liked, except my roots were bright GINGER!

      Second colour applied. Hairdresser still not happy, so toner applied.

      I was so upset when I left the salon (after more than 5 hours), I didn't attend the party I'd had my hair done for.

      The next day, shoved my hair up and went to Sally's, where I purchased a toner, & 6% peroxide. Did that at home and then conditioned my hair, wrapped my head in clingfilm and left it for an hour before washing out. Surprisingly, given that my hair is very thick and curly, the condition wasn't anywhere near as bad as I thought it would be.

      I've subsequently washed my hair this week with violet shampoo, but I think all this did was make the difference between the blonde and ginger even more apparent.

      I've never had a crisis of confidence due to my hair before. This has been a tough week (car accident Tuesday, funeral - yes, with glowing hair, on Wednesday, followed by an evening event I had to present at...) however, I rang my salon yesterday to tell my hairdresser I couldn't cope with my hair the way it is and that I don't care what she has to do to fix it, she just needs to fix it!

      I'm hoping for blonde, but would be interested to know whether brunette would be better! (the grass is always greener...).

      Thanks.

    • Dolce1000000 6 months ago

      I just bleached my hair and the gray roots turned white and the brown hair turned ORANGE!!! What can I do to correct this immediately??? Thank you very much.

      ...

    • Sara Mathews 5 months ago

      Hi. I have had black hair and I have started colouring my hair without using bleach since I'm 16. Now I'm 21 and lately I tried blonde twice and now I have a brown with an orangish color ..I wanted to do platinum but its not available readily in the drugstores so I was thinking I could use some tones to get some ash colours on me. What do you suggest??

    • karla 5 months ago

      I had really bad water. my hair was really blonde a level 10..I ended up having to put a brown on my hair until my water treatment system was put in. so it was installed ....i bleached my hair and it turned orange and started to smoke and my hair was breaking off ..after maybe 10 to 15 mins of it being on...it had never done this....so i waited a few weekseconds but and all over on my hair and it's still an orangey color....what do i do

    • Nicola 5 months ago

      Hi I need help, I recently bleached my hair it went yellowy blonde on my root's and orange on the rest, I got a hairdresser friend to then dye my hair for me I wanted light ash brown so

    • Natalie 5 months ago

      Hi everyone,

      I have a quick question,my natural hair colour iss black and I wanted to add some highlights. Went to the salon ,they bleached my hair and added a red/maroon toner.So the problem now is that the colour fades away with every wash and the highlights are turning Orange. Can someone please give me some advice on what I should do now?

      Thank you in advance.

    • Katie 4 months ago

      I need help! My friend just bleached my hair in an attempt to lighten it from being dyed black so many times. I realize now maybe we should have stripped it first. Well, it's too late now. My hair is an uneven patchy mess. My roots are bright yellowhite while the rest of my hair is an uneven orange/copper tones with dark patches here and there. It's horrific. We're thinking of just dying it a darker color to even it out. But my concern is that this will cause the dark patches to become even DARKER. Hence defeating the purpose of dying it dark in the first place. Any suggestions on how to approach this situation?? Thanks!

    • SarahN 4 months ago

      Hi, Maffew! Thank you for your wonderful blog! I have been trying to get rid of brassy tones in my hair for over a year now. I've seen two stylists and told them both that my hair seems to pull more orange than usual and I don't like it. My natural color is a mouse-y brown, maybe level 7 or so.

      The most recent stylist disregarded my advice the first time and used a neutral semi dye, and there was plenty of orange. The next time she used ash, and there was still orange! This most recent attempt at semi STILL went brassy after a few washes. She's been using Schwarzkopf dyes, so I thought the quality of color would be better, but it's doing the same thing lesser quality dyes do.

      I'm not trying to get my hair blonde, I just want it back to regular so I don't have to maintain it (and since my natural mouse-y brown goes better with my skin than anything that's happened in these salon visits). The other concern I have is that the semi dye doesn't seem to be washing out completely on the regrowth, which is extra frustrating since I asked her not to dye on the regrowth since I'm trying to grow it out. Is there a reason my previously virgin regrowth wouldn't be losing the brassy tones from the semi dye?

      Thank you again! I'm looking into the mousse you recommended, but just don't want to perpetuate the orange regrowth problem if that might happen.

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