Ariel Laur is a freelance writer from NYC who enjoys writing on a variety of topics and sharing useful information with readers.
Historically, the major problem for those with naturally curly hair has been the ignorance about how to care for, cut, and style it. As a result, many women with naturally curly hair end up straightening their hair out of frustration and exasperation. Thankfully, two hairstylists, Lorraine Massey and Oiudad (she goes by her first name only), who have naturally curly hair were also frustrated and decided to do something about all of this curly hair ignorance.
Each of these women went about inventing their own method of cutting and caring for curly hair. Both women began styling curly hair using their own unique method and as time went on began growing their own curly hair empires (Oiudad calls herself the “Queen of the Curl”.) Interestingly, while both curly hair philosophies hold some similarities, they also have some different and even opposing methods of caring for curls.
This article will explore both methods and help you understand what these cuts and curly hair philosophies are all about.
What Is Ouidad?
Ouidad is a hair salon and product line that was founded by a commercially successful hairstylist who had her own head of curls but was frustrated with the lack of understanding by stylists on how to style and care for her own locks.
After developing her own curly hair styling method and against the advice of investors, she opened her own salon in NYC in 1984 and has grown the Ouidad name ever since. Ouidad has coined a few phrases when it comes to styling hair; one is “Rake & Shake,” which refers to the method of helping to set the curl up just before it dries. The other phrase is “Carve & Slice,” which refers to the unique way in which the hair is cut.
I want everyone to see that curly hair is a gift to be celebrated and enjoyed, every day.
The Ouidad Cut
The Ouidad cut follows some of the traditional hair styling methods but also deviates in an unorthodox way.
- First, the length and overall shape are decided upon and cut, and then the cut deviates from tradition in using the unique “Carve & Slice” method. This method manages to cut layers into the hair that accentuate the curls when dry.
- "Carve & Slice" gives the curls room and space to breath, to see and be seen. This method is similar to layering, but when the hair is dry, these layers are not visible, and they blend in. Instead, the customer is left with curls that are defined with less unneeded volume.
Ouidad’s Take on Washing Hair
Ouidad recommends shampooing only once or twice a week. Similar to the DevaCurl philosophy, Ouidad believes that curly hair is inherently dry and in need of a lot of conditioner.
Ouidad Styling Steps:
- Begin with wet hair (no towel drying!).
- Apply a moisturizing conditioner and work product all the way through so that it is evenly distributed.
- Follow with gel, working the gel from the scalp outwardly. This also works to separate the curls giving them a nice definition.
- Section the hair and apply more gel from the root outward.
- Rake and shake sections of hair. This is done using the four fingers of the hand, beginning at the base of the hair, combing the fingers through until just before the end and then shaking the hair.
- Air dry or diffuse (a diffuser is a hairdryer attachment) dry.
- Apply a holding spray.
What Is DevaCurl?
The DevaCurl cut is very unique and is an extreme deviation from the methods that most hairstylists are taught in beauty school. In referring to the DevaCurl cut, method founder Lorraine Massey believes that curly hair should be cut “where it lives.”
Since there is no way to see how the hair will lay unless it is dry, DevaCurl cuts are preformed ‘dry’. Massey also emphasizes the importance of moisturizing the hair and staying away from sulfates which work to destroy the beauty of a healthy head of curls.
Curly hair is not a trend, it’s a lifestyle.
— Lorraine Massey - DevaCurl
- The DevaCurl stylist will cut your hair dry since this is the only way to see the curl as it lies.
- Each ringlet will get trimmed individually, as needed. This method makes each individual customer end up with a one-of-a-kind haircut, which is an extreme deviation from traditional hair styling methods.
- This technique makes styling more of an art than a rote procedure for a stylist to follow.
- Because of this wide deviation from a traditional haircut, depending on where you live, it can be difficult to find a stylist who has learned the technique.
How Does DevaCurl Address Volume?
Lorraine Massey, founder of DevaCurl, believes that once you begin properly moisturizing your hair and staying away from shampoos with sulfates the big volume and stereotypical frizz will be a thing of the past. Conversely, if you still want to keep some volume you can scrunch your hair and shake some volume using your fingers like a comb near the scalp.
DevaCurl Styling Steps
- Cleanse using "no-poo" or another sulfate-free shampoo.
- Hydrate using conditioner.
- With head upside down, define curls by scrunching with a frizz-free cloth.
- Use clips near the scalp to create lift and or length by using clips to weigh down the hair.
- Allow hair to dry naturally or use the DevaCurl hairdryer and diffuser (hairdryer attachment).
- When dry, remove clips, then shake and scrunch.
Availability and Pricing Comparison
$125 and up
$35 and up
Over 2000 salons nationwide
NYC & Santa Monica, CA
NYC, White Plains, NY, Culver City, CA
What Are the Differences Between Ouidad and DevaCurl?
- Both Ouidad and DevaCurl want your curly locks to shine and want you to love the hair that you were born with.
- Both Ouidad and DevaCurl believe that shampooing can damage curly hair and needs to be minimized and ideally that those with curly hair seek out products without harmful chemicals.
- Ouidad does not recommend towel drying (maybe squeeze some excess water with the hands) while DevaCurl sells its own specially designed towels.
- Another opposing belief is the upside-down flip. Ouidad says that this is a no-no, while DevaCurl founder Lorraine Massey has this as one her styling steps. The biggest difference between these two methods is the wet vs. dry cut, which creates very different results.
Use towels to dry hair
Flip hair over
Cut hair wet or dry?
Where Did It All Begin?
- In 1984, Oiudad opened her first salon, in NYC.
- In 1994, Lorraine Massey opened her first curly hair salon called “Devashan,” also in NYC.
In the end, it boils down to the look.
Ouidad is going for a more curl defining the look, with a great deal of product used in assisting this method along. The cut is more defined as well, really allowing the curl to be seen.
DevaCurl seems to want to allow the curl to be and live as it is; minimal cutting is required to do this. If you like the body, sans the frizz, you might be happier with a DevaCurl method; if you are looking for a more defined less voluminous look you might prefer the Ouidad method.
Another take away could be that you come up with your own method; it might be an amalgam of the two.
In the end, all of the curly hair girls of the world can and should unite in knowing that curly hair is a gorgeous gift from the heavens and celebrate in the idea that we can not only honor the crown of glory we were born with but that we have options out there. Whether it is DevaCurl or Oiudad or maybe something else, there is a place in this world for all the girls with curls!
More Articles About Curly Hair
- Ouidad - Curly Haircut: Review
Is a Ouidad Haircut really worth the high end price? Find out what the Ouidad cut is all about including history, styling methods, cost, locations and more.
- How to Take Care of Naturally Curly Hair
Learn the secret tricks to taking care of naturally curly hair, from cut to products to styling.
© 2015 Ariel Laur
Ariel Laur (author) from New York on July 24, 2020:
Hi Bandon Girl,
I hear you and I can relate! I have found facebook to be a good source for local information. I suggest that you look for a local facebook group and then post a question asking for a curly hair stylist recommendation. It can be so difficult to find a good stylist for curly hair unless you live in a metropolitan area but don't give up!
BandonGirl on July 24, 2020:
I live in a rural coastal town and the nearest Deva Curl salon is 2-1/2 hours away. I had a fantastic curly hair stylist in Portland, who cut my wavy hair dry, but that’s 4 hours away. None of the hairstylists near me cut curly hair dry. I tried a new one two months ago, who doesn’t understand curly hair at all. She is Asian, with straight hair. She blew it dry with a round brush, and she cut more as she dried. When I asked her if she would blow it dry with a diffuser and scrunch it up, she said I could do that home! My hair won’t curl at all on one side. I did locate one stylist in town who has very curly hair herself, who says she has to cut hair wet in order to see the curl pattern. I will be trying her when my current haircut grows out, but I feel kind of hopeless of ever finding someone like my Portland stylist. When I asked for recommendations on Facebook for someone who is good with curly hair, one woman answered “anyone really”. I have decided that I will never go to a hairstylist who has straight hair again!