Your Guide to Sulfate-Free Skincare Products
A Road to Better Skin
I have sensitive skin. I've discovered that my skin responds best to a simplified, streamlined routine, with minimal products and minimal ingredients. A tenant of good skincare is to avoid known irritating products, and sulfates (such as sodium lauryl sulfate or SLS) are known irritants.
I created this guide to share the sulfate free products that I love which have helped improve the tone and clarity of my skin. In this guide, I'll be giving product suggestions for face wash, shampoo, toothpaste, body wash, and hand soap, all of which are sulfate free.
What Are Sulfates?
Not to be confused with "sulfites" (the stuff that's found in red wine), "sulfates" refers to a family of cheap detergents used in soaps and other personal products as a grease cutting or lathering agent. Sulfates are commonly found in shampoo, toothpaste, face wash, and liquid soaps as "sodium lauryl sulfate" or "sodium laureth sulfate," often shortened to SLS or SLES. They are what give these products that bubbly feel.
Skin Irritation, Acne, and Perioral Dermatitis
About a year ago, I discovered a red rash on my face that was not going away. It was localized to the area around my mouth, and it was stubborn. Unlike the acne on other parts of my face and other parts of my chin, these little red bumps would show up in the exact same area, and they were not going away. Some days they'd be red, some days they'd be red and flakey, and some days they'd disappear completely, but they always came back. I've also had a reoccuring mild rash around the sides of my nose since I was a kid.
I did a little research and discovered this mysterious "chin/nose rash" was likely perioral dermatitis. Perioral Dermatitis (POD) manifests as a fine red rash around the mouth, chin, sides of the nostrils (nasolabial fold), and/or eyes. It is often goes hand-in-hand with itchiness and dry flakes, making it very difficult to cover with makeup. POD is often confused with acne, rosacea, and other kinds of dermatitis.
After a little more research, I discovered that the ingredients in my face wash could be causing irritation on my face. I learned that an incredibly common ingredient, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, was a likely culprit.
What's the Big Deal?
SLS cuts through grease, which is great for for some, but not so great for certain skin or hair types. In addition to being a potential skin irritant and enemy of hair colorists (it's hair dye fader), it can also aggravate a number of conditions:
- Perioral Dermatitis (POD)
- Allergic Contact Dermatitis
- Canker Sores
- Dandruff / Dry, Itchy Scalp
Step 1: Sulfate Free Face Wash
My first step into the world of sulfate free products was via face wash. I had cast a side-eye on many of my other skincare products, from acne medications to sunscreen, long before I ever suspected my "sensitive skin" or "acne" face washes could be irritating my skin. As it turns out, most mainstream face washes (from inexpensive Cetaphil to expensive Dermalogica) contain sulfates. I realized that I had been putting a known irritant directly onto irritated skin for over a decade. (Doh!)
So, I took to the Internet and researched all the SLS free face washes out there. Let me tell you, there aren't many of them. I almost gave up and shelled out big bugs for a fancy pants brand, when I came across an amazing article. This blogger was telling her readers that she knew of a big name, high end skincare brand that was partnering with a big grocery chain to create an inexpensive, but high quality face wash. A dermatologist had taken their brand's $50-a-bottle face wash, and improved and repackaged it with a $6 price tag.
The grocery chain in question is none other than Trader Joes, the product is their "All-In-One Facial Cleanser." I've recommended this face wash to every woman with a face and ears. My best friend and I are both hooked.
Your cheapest route to Face Wash glory is to go directly to your closest Trader Joes. If you don't have a Trader Joes nearby, Amazon does sell it. It's not $6, but it's similarly priced to other face washes, and still a great deal for what you're getting. It's also a heck of a lot cheaper than $50.
A Word on Cetaphil
Cetaphil is the #1 Dermatologist recommended face wash. I have acne prone skin so it's no surprise that I used Cetaphil for years. The low price and low ingredient count was a big draw for me.
The problem is, Cetaphil contains Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). SLS is distinct from (SLES) Sodium Laureth Sulfate in that SLS is actually MORE irritating than SLES. Why any cosmetics company would use SLS and call it "gentle" is beyond me.
Step 2: Sulfate Free Shampoo
(I'm a poet and I didn't even know it!)
Next up on my sulfate free journey was logical. I want to keep sulfates off my face; what other product could possibly be contaminating it? I looked no further than the stuff I'm putting slightly north of my face: my hair. Think about it, how easy is it to wash your hair and not get even the tiniest bit of shampoo on your face? I also have bangs (aka fringe to those across the pond), and I often wash my bangs alone without washing the rest of the hair on my head. This usually results in all kinds of shampoo on my forehead and face.
Luckily, sulfate free shampoos are among the easiest products to find. Big brands such as L'Oreal, Aveeno, and Tresemme offer SLS free or SLS reduced shampoos, not so much because their worried about sensitive skin, but because they're worried about fading hair color. This ingredient is not only a known irritant, they're also really good at removing that expensive dye you have in your hair.
My current sulfate free shampoo choice is a mega huge bottle from Costco: Kirkland Signature Professional Salon Formula Moisture Shampoo. It's hydrating, and comes in a nice tall pump.
A Rose By Any Other Name
... is still a sulfate.
These are the most common names on ingredient labels:
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS)
Ammonium Laurel Sulfate (ALS)
Step 3: Sulfate Free Toothpaste
You might be wondering two things here: 1) Why on earth does toothpaste contain sulfates -and- 2) Why on earth do you care about having sulfates in your toothpaste?
- SLS is what gives soaps and other products that nice rich lather, and since a lot of folks have come to associate all that bubbly-ness from toothpaste with a fresh clean mouth, toothpaste makers find it necessary to add the stuff.
- If you have skin that is sensitive to sulfates, you will almost certainly want a sulfate free toothpaste as well. It's easy to get a bit of the froth runoff from your toothbrushing session onto the skin around your mouth. If you're a drooler, brushing your teeth right before bed can result in some SLS dribbling on down your face. For those with perioral dermatitis, this can be a recipe for disaster. Additionally, sulfates may cause or irritate canker sores.
Now, finding a SLS free toothpaste proved to be a bit more challenging than finding a SLS free face wash or SLS free shampoo. Big brands Colgate and Crest do not make sulfate free toothpastes; even some so called "natural" brands (like Toms of Maine) contain sulfates. There are a few smaller brands, however, that fit the bill, including Sensodyne, CloSYS, Jason (fluoride free formula only), Verve Ultra, and Biotene. My choice was Sensodyne ProNamel, Gentle Whitening.
Step 4: Sulfate Free Body Wash
I haven't made the leap yet to SLS free body wash, but once I run out of my current Dove* stockpile, I'll be making the switch. While it is unlikely that I'll get any body wash on my face, I do get irritation and acne on my chest and back fairly regularly. I figure that there is a chance that the SLS in my Dove body wash could be causing problems as well, and it makes it worth it for me to switch.
I've already got my eye on Costco's Kirkland brand body wash (if you don't have a Costco membership, you can buy it on Amazon via the link below). There are a few other brands that offer Sulfate Free body washes and beauty bars as well including Alba, Burts Beets, and Dr. Bronners.
Step 5: Sulfate Free Hand Soap
The last item on my sulfate free bucket list is hand soap. A girl's gotta dream, right? I've got enough Softsoap to choke a horse with, so I won't be able to make the switch for awhile, but I do want to give it a shot. You might ask, why is SLS free hand soap important?
I figure I've got problem skin. I tend to touch my face many times each day (it's a tough habit to break guys!). I also wash my hands many times each day, so I could be inadvertently getting sulfates on my face via my hands.
Regardless of my situation, I know that there are thousands of people that suffer from chronically dry hands, Eczema, Psoriasis, and other painful, itchy skin conditions of the hands. Hand soaps that contain SLS could easily aggrevate these conditions.
The following brands make sulfate free hand soap: Nature's Gate, Aterra, Jason, and Trader Joe's.
A Classic Choice
The reason why most "soaps" are problematic is because they aren't actually soap. Manufacturers add cheap ingredients like sulfates to make their cleansers more soap-like. An easy work around is to get pure castile soap like Dr. Bronners. It isn't for everyone, but even those that find it too harsh to use as a beauty product can use it for laundry, dishes, and around the home.
Dr. Bronner's makes a number of scents including Tea Tree (great for oily/acne prone skin), Peppermint (a favorite), Lavender (lovely in laundry), and Unscented "Baby Mild" (great for sensitive skin).
© 2014 Shay Marie